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7- 



OR, THE 



LIFE AND ADVENTURES 



OF 



wmiLiiAm ^©iBiEa^o 



Who for the space op 25 months, within the yeaks 1835, '36 and '37, was 

HELD A CAPTIVE BY THE CANNIBALS OF THE MaIIQ,UESAS, (A GROUP OF ISLANDS 

IN THE South Sea,) among whom he was cast from the wreck of the 

Brig Doll, Capt. , of Otaheite, of which wreck himself, 

and one shipmate, can alone tell the sad tale. Also, for 

many years served in the several capacities REaUISITE 

for seamen, on both english and american 

Merchants' ships. 



WRITTEN BY HIMSELF. 

Illustrated with Engrayings of his own Sketchifi! 



" 'Tis mine to tell a tale of grief, 
Of constant peril, and of scant relief; 
Of days of danger, and of nights of pain." 



T '/ 




BOSTON: '> 

PRESS or a. J. WRIGHT, 3 WATER STREET. 

1848, 






G\M1 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1847, 

By a. L. STEARNS, 
in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Massachusetts. 



PREFACE. 



The author, in offering his narrative to the public, is conscious of 
his almost utter inability to the task of giving it a strictly grammati- 
cal publication. We, whose march is upon the mountain wave, and 
whose home is upon the deep, have but little opportunity, however 
strong the desire, to become adepts in grammatical or orthographical 
science. We better know the intricacies of our calling than the in- 
tricacies of scientific lore. 

One object in this publication, (apart from the pecuniary consider- ^ 
ation,) is to give the civilized world an insight into the manners and 
customs of the children of the island of the sea with whom the author 
was so long associated, and whose manners and customs were so 
indelibly fixed upon his memory as well as upon his person. 

Also to note the manners and customs of the other nations of the 
^arth, into whose society he was often forced in his many wanderings 
to and fro. In pursuance of which he proposes giving a hasty geo- 
graphical and historical sketch of each place of importance which he 
visited, and, to better accomplish this work, he has in many instances 
consulted the writings of others, as he, as well as all other mariners, 
was restricted to a certain extent by duties on ship board during the 
short time he might remain in port, and was therefore unable, 
through his own observation, to gather many important facts worthy 
the reader's notice. 

There may be many startling incidents narrated in this work — 
incidents and circumstances which would jar, even upon the ear of 
credulity itself, to believe ; but the author claims one merit, if noth- 
ing else, and that is truth. 

1* 



VI PREFACE. 

With these few remarks, he gives his work to the world in ex- 
pectation of their patronage and sympathy for his sufferings when in 
bondage among those savages, and, also, in his intercourse with the 
many other nations of the earth, knowing the indulgent community 
will kindly overlook all errors which may arise through his inability. 

WM. TORREY. 

Springfield y Mass,, January 1848. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 



The author's early life. Has a strong desire to remove. Leaves 
home. Falls in with a robber by the name of Harris. Goes to 
New London. Harris commits many thefts. Is taken, and both 
thrown into prison. Trial comes, and Harris is sentenced to 
State prison. The Judge takes the author to his own house. 
Gives him fatherly admonition, and money to go home. Remains 
sometime. Again leaves, and gladly returns. The third time 
leaves, and is retaken. Leaves home resolved never to return. 
Proceeds to New Bedford 13 

CHAPTER II. 

Leaves New Bedford. Touch at the Azores. Description of them. 
Encounter a heavy squall. The author is struck by lightning. Goes 
on shore at Fernando Po for water. Trade with the natives. Treat- 
ment offered a thief. See a native suffering with the Chiger. De- 
ceive a British Man-of-War. Have poor success and sail for the 
Brazil Banks. Providential escape at Barbadoes. Land at St. Vin- 
cent. Great frolic with the natives. Thrown in prison. Sail 
for New Bedford. Storm in the Gulf Stream. Arrive at New 
Bedford 33 

CHAPTER III. 

Sail from New Bedford. The Crew are put upon allowance. Reach 
the Azores. Proceed to the Brazil Banks. Return to the African 
coast. Great fear arises from breakers. Prove to be an innumera- 
ble number of canoes filled with natives who come to the ship. 
Their awful appearance. Serious difficulty arises with one of the 
erew, who is put on shore. Cruise about for whale. Trade with 



Vlll CONTENTS, 

the natives of St. Thomas. Procure two monkeys, who render 
much service in killing cockroaches. The treatment given the 
crew at Fernando Po. Kindly interference of British officers. 
The crew are obliged to catch their own provision. Sail for 
home. I take a few flying fish, which the captain claims as his. 
Threw them into the sea. Great rage of the Captain. Reach 
New Bedford. The sailors leave the Captain to secure the 
sails ,.'..... 44 

CHAPTER IV. 

Sail on board the Huntress, bound for the Pacific, on a whaling 
Expedition. Encounter a heavy Storm. A Man lost. Reach the 
Falklands. Description of them. Storm at the Cape. Icebergs. 
Island of Juan Fernandez. Arrive at the Sandwich Islands. 
A Sketch of them 54 



CHAPTER V. 

Description of the Volcano of Kilauea, at Hawaii. . , . . 63 

CHAPTER VI. 

Sail for the '' Off shore ground." Cruise for Whale. Come to 
anchor at Payta. Desert the ship. Sufferings in the desert. 
Reach the human habitations. Are entertained by an old Spaniard, 
who takes us to St. Augustine, and delivers us up to the Gov- 
ernor. Thrown into a Calaboose. Released by the Captain. 
Sketch of Peru. Proceed to the Galapagos. Scenes at that group. 
Rock of Dundas. Sail to the Society Islands. Run upon the 
Coral Reef. Loose an anchor. Employ natives to dive for it. 
Proceed to the Coast of Japan. Description of the Dolphin and 
Flying Fish. A violent storm. Sail for the Sandwich Islands. 
Touch at Pitcairns. Desert the ship. Ship on board the brig 
Doll. Arrive at Magdalena. Proceed to Wytohoo. Phospho- 
retic scene. A heavy storm. Seven men lost. Flee to the 
boats. The ship runs upon the rocks 83 



CONTENTS. IX 

CHAPTER VII. 

Got on shore among the Cannibals. The reception. Description of 
the Tabu ground. Visit the scene of the wreck, after the storm 
subsides, accompanied by the king and chiefs. Manner of build- 
ing. Manner of bathing. The bread fruit. Description of the 
Carver. The Captain proposes leaving for Otaheite. Are taken 
around to the other tribes. Death of one of our number from the 
sun's heat. Manner in which the dead are disposed of. , . 108 

CHAPTER VIII. 

A war breaks out. Its causes. Awful Massacre. The Author is 
tattooed. Manner of its accomplishment. An attack is made 
upon the Cohapha. Disposition of the prisoners. Continuance o 
the war. A ship comes to anchor. Our fond hopes blasted. Pur- 
chase a gun. Departure of the ship. The author builds a hut 
and takes a wife. Effect of the gun upon the Cohaphas. They 
attempt another night attack. Its results. The grand appearance 
of our army. Result of a single shot. The Author is wounded. 
Kill the native and take possession of the body and gun. The 
king rewards us. The body is roasted. Singular adventure with 
a wild hog. The Cohaphas wish for peace. The place of skuUs. 
Peace is declared 124 

CHAPTER IX. 

A visit from the Cohaphas. Our King wishes to learn the use of 
the gun. Abandons the idea. Arrival of Captain Fisher. His 
inhumanity. Is driven from the land. Manner of fishing. At- 
tempt to cultivate tobacco. Efficacy of the tabu law. A missionary 
ship arrives. Meetings are held. Unbelief of the natives. Narrow 
escape of the author. Conduct of Mr. Daylia. He is driven from 
the island. Another sail approaches. Recognition of the Captain. 
His conduct. Plan of escape. The king is deceived. The author 
leaves the island. Secretes himself. Is missed. His unpleasant 
situation. Joy at seeing the natives leave the ship. Reflec- 
tions, 145 



X CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER X. 

Description of the Whale Fishery . Being again on board a whale ship ^ 
1 propose giving my readers a brief description of the Whale, and 
of the manner of capturing them 162 

CHAPTER XI. 

Speak several vessels. Massacre at Keppell's Island. Touch at the 
Duke of York's Island. Find a tomb. Electrical eel. Conduct 
of a negro, who makes much sport. Land Lobster. Land at 
Gohannah. Improper conduct of the captain. A storm oif Hawaii. 
Anchor at Honolulu. Its description. Scenes on shore. Sports 
of the surf. Arrival at Sir Francis Drake's Bay. Scenes on 
shore. Cruise about the different islands. Proposed mutiny. The 
author leaves the ship 169 

CHAPTER XII. 

Sail for the North West Coast. Am required to sign the ship's arti- 
cles. Trouble with officers. Anchor at New Archangel. Dogs 
trained to the harness. Leave the ship. Fall in with an Indian 
hunting party. Their manners and customs. Humanity of an In- 
dian. Return to St. Lucas. Goes over land to St. Josephs. 
Lives with a Catholic priest. Narrow escape. Arrive at San 
Blass. Ship for Buenos Ayres. Fearful passage of the straits 
of Magellan in a storm. Description of Buenos Ayres. . • 184 

CHAPTER XII L 

Return to San Blass. Description of the Town. Strikes a Spaniard, 
and resists the Police. Is placed in the Stocks. Goes on board the 
Tammercee. The Captain is employed to take a quantity of Gold 
to England. Fight between the Officers. Anchor at Tehuantepec 
for Dye-StufFs. Precaution used against Scorpions, Centipedes, 
&c. Arrival at Panama. Scenes on Shore. Arrive at Callao. 
Ride to Lima. Description of Lima. Arrival at Valparaiso. 
Again double the Cape on the wings of the wind. Arrival at 
Liverpool. Sketch of the City 1^7 



CONTENTS. XI 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Proceed to New Brunswick. Encounter a severe storm. Come 
near losing the ship. Arrived at Delhouse. Sickness of the au- 
thor. Bleeds himself. His end apparently approaches. Timely 
assistance. Sails for Quebec. Description of the Citadel. A 
sketch of its history 210 



CHAPTER XV. 

Sail in the Borneo for Limerick. A Man is found secreted on 
hoard. Conduct of the Captain. Sympathy of the Crew. Terri- 
ble Storm. Wretchedness of our Situation. Account of the loss 
of the Francis Spade. Singular occurrence. The Storm con- 
tinues. Reach the Shannon. The rolling of the Killserphine. 
Its Tradition. Reach Limerick. Sail for London. Sail for 
E§fyP** Description of Gibraltar. Arrive at the quarantine 
ground off Alexandria. Go to the Dead Sea. Its description. 
Return to Alexandria. Curiosities and History of Egypt. Man- 
ners and Customs of the People 223 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Sail for London. Arrive at the Downs. Sail for St. Johns, A 
dense fog. Bay of Fandy. Come to anchor at St. Johns. Pro- 
ceed to London. Sail for the East Indies. Study Navigation. 
Arrive at St. Helena. Tomb of Napoleon. Reach Cape Town. 
Description of the Country. Of the several Tribes. Arrive at 
Calcutta. Description of the Ganges, and its Religious Rites. 
Of Calcutta. Sail for Canton. Tiger Island. Straits of Ma- 
lacca. Preparations for Pirates. Arrive at Canton. Its descrip- 
tion. Chinese Floating Town. Manners and Customs. Fourth 
of July. Sail for England. Misconduct of the Mate. His dis- 
<;harge. Arrival at London 243 



XU CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XVII. 

London. Thames tunnel. Bank of England. St. Paul's Church. 
Westminster Abbey. The tower. Sail for St. Johns. A storm. 
Proceed to Londonderry. Its description. Wolf Rock. Sail for 
Holland. Burial at sea. Arrive at Hamburg. Its description. 
Come near going upon the sands. Dover cliffs and castle. Pilots. 
Eddystone light. A ship in distress with a drunken captain. Re- 
turn to my family. Go to New Orleans. Sail for Glasgow. Go 
to Edinburgh. Go to St. Johns resolved to quit the sea. Build a 
house. Go to Savannah. Meet an old school fellow. Appointed 
chief mate. Gulf stream. A storm. Go home. Sail to Cork. 
Belfast. Thence to London. Return home. Imminent danger 
and narrow escape 261 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Command a vessel. Sail for London. Come near going on the 
Goodwin Sands. Anchor at London. Sail for Mobile. Serious 
affair with the Seamen. Spirits discharged from the Ship. 
A fortune-Teller. Sail for Liverpool. Sail as mate of the 
Ashburton. A Storm. Run upon the Rocks. Perilous Situa- 
tion. Proceed to St. Johns, and go smuggling. Are taken, 
and ship sold. News from home. Go thither, and unknown. 
Conclusion 283 



Liri 1^81© I^5)¥1IIT»1S 



OF 



WILLIAM TOREEY. 



CHAPTER I. 

The author's early life. Has a strong desire to remove. Leaves 
home. Falls in with a robber by the name of Harris. Goes to 
New London. Harris commits many thefts. Is taken, and both 
thrown into prison. Trial comes, and Harris is sentenced to 
State prison. The Judge takes the author to his own house. 
Gives him fatherly admonition, and money to go home. Remains 
sometime. Again leaves, and gladly returns. The third time 
leaves, and is retaken. Leaves home resolved never to return. 
Proceeds to New Bedford. 

'ww^ S it will be of little or no interest to the reader, 
I shall speak but briefly of my early life, sim- 




ply stating that I was born in the town ol 

>USlJi5S Wilbraham, State of Massachusetts, 4th ol 

i^pjxnnA March, 1814, of poor yet respectable parents. 

My father during the winter months, followed the 

occupation of school teaching. My time was passed 

between school and boyish sports, until I reached my 

tenth year; at this time my parents removed to the 
2 



14 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

manufacturing village of Chickopee Falls, (formerly, 
and perhaps more generally known by its Indian name, 
Skipmuck,) when I was, during the summer months, 
put in one of the cotton mills, that my labors might 
contribute something to the support of the family. 
This I found extremely tedious, as I was oftentimes 
much abused by those under whom I worked. Pos- 
sessing naturally a restless disposition, I was induced 
to believe this treatment much wori^e than I could bear; 
and I resolved to cast myself upon the wave of life, and 
seek for myself a living, independent of parents or guar- 
dians. This resolution I cherished most tenderly ; and, 
in the fall of 1826, packing what clothes I could easily 
carry, I set out, with a heart beating high with hope, 
little dreaming of the privations I was to suifer; and 
which I shall attempt to picture to the reader, from time 
to time, m the following pages. 

I directed my steps towards Hartford, Connecticut. 
Passing through Longmeadow, I chanced to meet a 
cousin, much older than myself, who, having by sad 
experience known somewhat of the hardships of life, 
besought me, most imploringly, to return to my father's 
roof. His advice I was unwilling to heed, and passed 
on. Soon I was overtaken by a gentleman (by the 
name of Burbanks) who was riding alone, and kindly 
offered me a seat at his side. Being already quite fa- 
tigued, I most gladly accepted his offer. Soon as I was 
seated he began questioning me, whither I was going, 
and of my prospects. When informed of my plans, he 
kindly offered to give me lodging for the night, also to 
give me, the next morning, a passage to Hartford, on 
one of the river boats of which his father was pilot. As 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. Id 

was presumed; the next morning the boat came in sight, 
and landed at the wharf, where she stopped but a few 
moments. After rendering due acknowledgment to my 
friend and benefactor, I stepped on board, and was un- 
der way, (often has the cry of ^' God bless him !" arisen 
from the companion, as I have related to the hardy 
crew this, the first incident of my first adventure,) and 
had a fine passage down the river. 

When safely over the falls at Enfield, the father of 
my friend left us, and I deeply felt his loss, being, as it 
were, alone again; my heart, which had before been 
big with hope, was now the scene of fear and anguish. 
I was near a strange city, yet unlearned in the world, 
without a penny in purse. I came near despondency, 
scarce knowing where I was, or whither going, till I 
aroused from my reverie by the boat striking against 
the wharf. I sprang to my feet, and momentarily re- 
solved to forget the past, and to improve, the present, 
that the future would with it bring no misgivings. I 
soon found myself seated at a public house, where I had 
engaged entertainment for the night. 

After breakfast, the next morning, I acquainted the 
landlord with my destitute situation; he became en- 
raged, and with loud words threatened to flog me ; a 
gentleman being near, hearing his angry words, came 
up, and, on learning the cause, kindly oflfered to settle 
the bill for me — again the stranger had compassion on 
me. I left the house, and wandered up and down in 
quest of employment; finding my efforts unavailing, I 
directed my steps towards the wharves, where I spent 
much time watching the jolly tars in their labors and 
sports. I went from vessel to vessel, till I became per- 



16 



LIFE AND ADVENTURES 



fectly enamored with the sailor's hfe, and I resolved to 
be myself a sailor, and made application to one and 
another for a berth ; but none seemed willing to take 
me, probably my age, which was not yet thirteen, 
proved disadvantageous. I next resolved to try a coun- 
try life, till such time as I could get a berth at sea, for 
that was now my fixed purpose. 

It being now near night, I concluded to seek out the 
residence of some distant relatives living in the city, 
acquaint them of my penniless situation, and of them 
solicit lodgings. After searching a long time I found 
them, and from them received money to defray my ex- 
penses at some hotel, as their situation was such at that 
time, that their house was crowded to its utmost capac- 
ity. With the early morn I started for the country, 
fell in with a foot pedler, with whom I traveled to 
Farmington. During the evening, I engaged to remain 
with the landlord, a few weeks, for small wages. The 
next morning the pedler left me. During my stay there 
I was ever dwelling upon my future life, as a sailor. 

After the lapse of a few weeks the pedler came back, 
and stating his determination of going to sea, persuaded 
me to go with him. We directed our steps towards 
Hartford ; resolved to spare no exertions in procuring a 
berth. At Hartford, we visited each and every vessel. 
Being unsuccessful, we had almost given up the idea, 
when strolling along the wharf, was met by a person of 
gentlemanly appearance, by the name of Harris, who 
asked 'Svhat we were driving at?" I answered, '^we are 
out of employment, and had been searching in vain for 
a berth at sea." He offering us good wages to run with 
him one trip to New London, we accepted. The vessel 



OF WILLIAM TORRE Y. ^ 17 

we engaged to go on was a one-masted sail boat, which 
he had hired for the trip. The owner not being alto- 
gether pleased with his appearance, insisted upon his 
taking with him one man whom he might select as 
boat keeper. All things being ready, we set sail, five 
of us in number. Had a fine passage down the river ; 
were soon passed by the New York steamer, and while 
yet in sight, she run aground. When we passed her, 
she was exerting herself most violently to get clear. 
We were hailed by a gentleman from the shore, who 
was waiting to'take passage in the steamboat. Seeing 
her position, he offered three dollars for a passage for 
himself, and the two ladies with him, to Middletov/n. 
Soon they were on board. Arrived at Middletown at 4 
P. M. Having a fine breeze, we remained but a few 
moments; took in a boy bound to Saybrook. The 
gentleman concluded to go farther with us. Arrived at 
East Haddam about 9 P. M. Our boat possessing no 
convenience for lodging, we all repaired to the hotel at 
the expense of the master. 

The next morning we started at an early hour for 
Saybrook, with the four passengers. The wind hauling 
around right ahead, obliged us to beat our way along, 
as best we could. We stood for Lyme, a little village 
opposite Saybrook, where we left our other passengers, 
while we took the boy over to Saybrook. After this 
was done, we attempted to recross the river; but, in 
consequence of the heavy v/ind from the sound, were 
unable ; therefore we put up the river. Mr. Harris and 
myself amused ourselves by singing songs. A little 
after sunset we arrived at a little village called Petty 

Pog ; remained during the night, by the order of Harris. 
2# 



18 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

We were called at daylight ; repaired to the boat, and 
made preparations to leave. The absence of Mr. Har- 
ris could not be accounted for until he returned, having 
as many lobsters as he could carry; being asked where 
he got them, he replied, out of a schooner which lay 
near ; ordered all possible despatch to be made in clear- 
ing away; gathered together the stones used as ballast, 
and of them forming a hearth, we built a fire, and 
cooked our lobsters for breakfast. Arrived at East Had- 
dam about noon ; stopped at the public house ; passed 
the afternoon very finely about the village. There were 
quite a number of people waiting at the hotel for the 
boat, to take passage for New York. The boat, in con- 
sequence of the before mentioned foundering on the bar, 
had put back to H — for repairs. During the evening, 
conversation turned upon business topics; and each, in 
turn, made their respective vocations known. Harris 
represented himself as having drawn $20,000 in a 
lottery, and was then on his way to New London to 
receive it. He succeeded in taking a valuable gold 
watch from the pocket of the gentleman with whom he 
was mostly engaged. This accomplished, he came to 
me, (I was sitting on the wood box, and half asleep,) 
and said, are you asleep ? arousing, I said, not exactlj^, 
sir, and soon sank back again. Soon the owner of the 
watch, wishing the time, felt for it, and, to his great 
astonishment, it was gone — the cry of '^ a thief, a 
thief," was raised ; the whole company were struck 
with dismay ; a search was proposed ; and, as no one 
had left the room, it was most certain it would be found ; 
All were obliged to undergo this searching process, save 
myself — m^r situation during the evening had been ob- 



OF WILLIAM TOREEY, 19 

served, and it was deemed useless. Mr. H. called me his 
brother ; and, during this search, he was the most active, 
expressing much sympathy with the gentleman. Great 
was the consternation when it was not to be found. 

As the hours, one after another, passed away, the 
company gradually dispersed, and half past eleven 
found the bar-room deserted, save by Harris, myself, 
and the landlord. We at length retired. On entering 
our room, Harris tested the quality of the fastenings of 
the door thoroughly ; then took, to my great astonish- 
ment, the stolen watch from my pocket. I asked how 
it came there ; in reply, he said he put it there when I 
was on the box. Putting a pair of pistols under his 
pillow, after having examined them, he remarked he 
should be pleased to see the man that dared disturb his 
slumber, and getting in bed took me in his arms. Soon 
Ave were fast asleep. Arising at an early hour the next 
morning, we found none up save the landlord and our 
boat-keeper; passed the compliments of the morning; 
and, as usual at those times, took a morning glass by 
way of preparing for breakfast. The landlord expressed 
much sympathy for the looser of the watch, and deeply 
regretted that such an occurrence should take place in 
his house. At this moment the gentleman entered with 
sad and downcast expression of countenance. Harris 
immediately entered into conversation with him, assur- 
ing him that the robbery would most certainly disclose 
itself; then I panted to give the information I was in 
possession of. Harris fearing something of that kind 
probably, would not suffer me for an instant to be from 
his sight; while they were talking, the boat came to 



20 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

the landing: the passengers left the house for the boat, 
Mr. H. and myself accompanying them. 

During the walk to the boat, and the few moments 
occupied in preparing to start, Harris was talking with 
the looser of the watch, holding me by the hand ; there 
seemed something pressing heavily upon his mind which 
gradually wore away, as the distance between him and 
the boat increased. Went next to our own boat ; ordered 
the boat-keeper to have all things ready in two hours ; 
then proceeded to the hotel; wished to see the bill, 
which was shown him. Harris then stated that he had 
a brother living about two miles distant whom he very 
much wished to see, and was going to his residence; 
said he would pay his bill when he returned, or then, if 
the landlord wished ; the landlord assured him it would 
make no difference. Taking me by the hand, we left 
the house, and proceeded southerly ; walked four miles ; 
stopped at the farm house of one Warner. Before en- 
tering, he cautioned me against saying any thing dif- 
ferent from what he might say ; said he wanted two 
horses to go to New London ; was in great haste, for 
*^ he had drawn $20,000 in a lottery some months pre- 
vious; had not yet obtained it, as he had been long ab- 
sent; had suffered shipwreck at or near the mouth of 
the river La Platte; himself and brother were alone 
saved from the wreck; our sufferings were great as 
imagination could picture them." Offered to pay $3 
per day for two horses ; and, if he could have a guide, 
or a person to take charge of the horses, would willingly 
pay for that also ; he was asked many questions, which 
he answered very cunningly. 

Soon the three horses were saddled for the journey ; a 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 21 

son of the landlord was to accompany us; we went 
along quite merrily. Stopping at a hotel, Harris and 
myself went in, leaving Warner with the horses. Har- 
ris represented himself as belonging to a Circus com- 
pany ; his brother that was with him was a most beau- 
tiful rider. He even went so far as to fill out and put 
up some handbills, which he had previously obtained 
somehow: and to make arrangements necessary for an 
exhibition of that kind, went on our way. Came to an 
acquaintance of Warner's who was a manufacturer of 
musical instruments. Karris selected one, a dulcimer, 
valued at twelve dollars, and would purchase it if the 
gentleman would wait upon him for the pay until he 
could go to New London and get the money he had 
drawn in the lottery ; this he was perfectly willing to 
do, Warner assuring him of the unquestionable charac- 
ter of the man. 

We arrived at New London about five in the after- 
noon. Stopped at one of the principal hotels. After 
supper we walked out, taking the dulcimer with us, 
which Mr. Harris ordered me to sell for any thing I 
could get. I walked boldly up to two gentlemen who 
were talking, and offered it; they did not seem inclined 
to purchase. I offered it for one dollar; this was so 
very cheap they purchased it ; taking the money, I of- 
fered it to Harris; he refused it, having money enough 
already he said. We walked on until we came to a 
large field without the limits of the city. Seated our- 
selves behind the stone wall which enclosed the field. 
Harris then took out his purse, and began counting his 
money; took out a large quantity of bills which he 
said he stole from the lady who was his passenger on 



22 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

the small boat. In giving a short history of his life, he 
said he had followed thieving for several years — two 
years of which lime he had spent at Charlestown in the 
State's employment. Replacing his purse, he remarked 
he would have a '^ gold chain that night or a wooden 
leg!" 

We started back ; had gone within the limits of the 
city when we met Warner, who anxiously asked where 
we had been. '^ Vf e have been looking for you this hour," 
says Harris. ^' Come, now let us go into this shop and 
get something to drink before gomg to bed." Returned 
to the hotel ; and, as we were going in, met the gaze of 
the lady whom Mr. Harris had robbed on the boat; 
this did not in the least tend to buoy up his spirits, 
but rather to discomfort him. Warner left the room a 
moment to see to his horses, when Harris took me by 
the hand, and hurriedly left the house. 

We proceeded up the street with a quick pace, he 
looking each way, as if fearful of being pursued. Again 
we were met by Warner, whom we supposed had, ere 
this, retired for the night. Without the least embar- 
rassment, Harris says '-come, go with us and get a dish 
of oysters," and turned into a shop, as if this course had 
been premeditated. While eating, Warner, by his 
looks, appeared as if conscious that Harris was playing 
a game with him. An acquaintance of his speaking to 
him for a moment, took his attention. Harris noticing 
it, immediately left the house. Went a short distance, 
when stopping at a jeweller's shop, said ''here lies my 
fortune." He stationed me on the corner of the street, with 
strict orders to give a violent cough should any one ap- 
proach. Taking a large bunch of keys from his pocket, 



OF WILLIAM TOEREY. 23 

he tried to unlock the door, and had nearly succeeded, when 
seeing a person (one of the watch, I think,) coming, I 
walked towards the door, and gave Harris the signal ; but 
not till I was sure he was near enough to detect some 
mischief; he dropped his keys, seized my hand, and 
ran fast as possible. The man being so near, noticed 
something out of order, and immediately raised theory of 
^' A thief! a thief!" The cry was echoed from street to 
street, and at each corner we found new hands to give 
chase; but we had no fresh hands to take the position 
we occupied. Harris finding the pursuit growing 
warmer each step, let go my hand. My motive-power 
being thus suddenly cut off*, I fell to the ground. Before 
I could raise myself, I was jerked to my feet by the 
powerful arm of Warner, who said, ^-you young scoun- 
drel, why did you not inform me of his rascality be- 
fore? Where is Harris?'' Giving me a shake, which 
took me from the ground, he said, '• Well, you vagabond, 
I have you at any rate.'' 

I was taken before a magistrate, who, after hearing 
their story, ordered me kept in close custody that night, 
and brought before him the next day at 9 o'clock. I 
was taken to the hotel. The lady, hearing of my situa- 
tion, expressed a strong desire to see me. Warner, un- 
willing to loose sight of me, accompanied me to her 
rooms. She, recognizing me, welcomed me with a smile. 
Wished all the information respecting Harris I could 
give of his character. Farther than the few days I had 
been with him, I knew nothing, except from his own 
mouth. She expressed much regret that one so young 
should be found in such company, and besought me to 
refrain from the course of life he was evidently pur- 



24 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

suing. Spoke of the loss of the $750 she had sustained, 
supposed to have been stolen by him on the boat. I 
assured her of the certainty of that, as he had ac- 
knowledged it to me but a few hours before. It being 
now near eleven o'clock, we retired for the night. I 
slept but little, as might be supposed, situated as I was. 
Without influential friends, and in fact without friends 
at all to care for me — in a land of strangers — viewed as 
a criminal awaiting justice, — I had only one source of 
consolation, — conscience favored me with her smiles. 
I knew I was guilty of no misdemeanor, farther than 
having been drawn in unwittingly by one who 

' ' A chosen villain was at heart ; 



And capable of deeds that durst not seek 
Repentance." 

1 pondered well upon my situation and destiny, and 
resolved strongly, (as I many times did in after years,) 
could I but be extricated from my present difliculty, I 
would return to the home of my youth to wander no 
more. With the earliest rays of dawn I awoke, when, 
in the act of arising, I woke Warner, who, half sus- 
pecting I was giving him the slip, sprang from the bed 
with the greatest eagerness, saying, ^' Well, you are now 
going to run away, are you, you young scamp?" I, 
without the least degree of excitement, calmly rephed, 
'^I am not, sir, but I think it time we were starting; for 
one, I wish to know my destiny." Soon the bell called to 
breakfast. Warner spoke to the landlord, saying, 
'' Please keep your eye on that boy while I take break- 
fast," not even thinking, I suppose, I should wish any. 
Soon as he had gone, I asked if I could have breakfast. 



OF WILLIAM TORRE f. 25 

^' Certainly/' says the landlord, with emphasis, who 
possessed soul enough not to give the pay the least 
thought. Showing me to the dining-room, he gave me a 
seat by Warner, saying, '' Look after your boy, your- 
self, sir." Breakfast over, we went again to the bar- 
room. Yv'arner called for his bill, saying, '• I don't pay 
for his breakfast.'' '^I don't wish you to, sir, I yet 
have money," was my ready reply; and the half sup- 
pressed laugh of the standers-by vexed and mortified 
him extremely. Nine o'clock came, and I was marched 
to the police office; and, after severe questioning, 
Warner was told I was not the man for him, as there 
Avas nothing appeared against me, except the fact of my 
being with him, (Harris.) I was ordered to be kept alone 
for a few days to see if Harris could not be taken, in 
which case I should be a valuable evidence. I was 
taken to the hotel, and confined on the second floor. 
About four in the afternoon, Warner came running in, 
half out of breath, saying, ^' Harris is taken, prepare im- 
mediately for the police office." I jumped for joy, went 
to the office ; was asked if I could swear to the prisoner 
at the bar to be the one who hired the horses of War- 
ner. I replied that I could. A bill being immediately 
found against him, we were ordered to prison, he as a 
criminal, and I as evidence against him, but to separate 
apartments. The next morning we were taken to the 
office again. I was ordered upon the stand, and made 
to tell what I knew of the late character of Harris. 
The statement of Warner and the lady confirmed the 
statements I had made. He was ordered back to jail 
to await his trial at a hidier court which would sit in 
about three weeks; I to be kept as evidence against 



26 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

him at said court. After a few days, I was allowed 
the privilege of walking about the yard: and was very 
kindly treated by the family of the jailer. The time 
passed so pleasantly that it soon was time for the sitting 
of the court. We were taken to the court-house, where 
we found the lady, her son, and daughter, the owner of 
the watch, and Mr. Warner. The Avatch, the money, 
and the dulcimer, were also there, and recognized by 
real owners. My statements, confirmed by the others, 
proved a verdict of guilty to him : and, at the expira- 
tion of three days, he entered upon his sentence, which 
was seventeen years hard labor at Wethersfield prison. 
I was taken by the honorable judge, whose head was 
frosted over by the winter of age, to his own house. 
Tears ran down those furrowed cheeks as he, with a 
father-like simplicity, pointed me to the paths of recti- 
tude, urging me to pursue them to the end — holding up 
to my mind the recent case of Harris as the reward of 
the evil doer. Gave me my living while I remained 
with him, and two dollars from his own purse, and be- 
sought me to return directly to my father's roof. 

I retraced my steps towards home. Stopped with 
Warner a short time. Was most joyously welcomed 
home. 

I remained with my father nearly three years, having 
but little desire to roam; finding at length the hfe of a 
factory boy rather unpleasant, I thought again to try 
my luck. I was near three years older than before, be- 
sides having the experience of the former cruise. I Avas 
quite sure I was then able to take care of myself. I 
went to Springfield, took stage for Albany, intending to 
ride as far as my money would carry me. I rode about 



OF WILLIAM TORREY, 27 

forty miles and concluded to try it on foot ; had proceed- 
ed but a little way when I fell in with a Caravan ; I 
traveled with them for small wages ; came to Albany, 
run one trip to Rochester on a line boat, took passage 
to New York on a sloop, arrived there with but twenty- 
five cents in my purse. I resolved to depend upon char- 
ity, as in fact I was obliged to do, for my small allow- 
ance would hardly be worth mentioning in the way of 
living. I met two frank looking young men in the garb 
of sailors, and knowing something of the true character 
of sailors, I made known to them my situation and so- 
licited aid. They took me to a house kept by a widow 
lady and ordered for me all that my necessities required, 
and they would see the bills settled. I remained with 
this good lady a day or two, she doing all she could to 
make me comfortable and happy. Besides her natu- 
rally good heart, she had the remembrance of her only 
son being out upon the tempestuous sea of life to prompt 
her to deeds of love and charity, having, as she hoped, 
the assurance that all acts of kindness shown towards 
the unfortunate, would be repaid by similar deeds of love 
and care being shown to her son. Never can forgetful- 
ness deprive me of the fond remembrance of this kind 
woman. The tears trickled down her cheeks as she 
bade me be a good boy and besought me as I loved the 
mother who gave me birth, to return to her and be a 
solace to her declining years. 

I left her, resolved to go home, proceeded to the 
wharves, found a vessel going to Middletown, engaged 
a privilege of working my passage, went on board and 
shoved out from the dock, but soon found that instead of 
nearing home I was getting still farther from it, for instead 
of going to Middletown^ Connecticut, we were bound to a 



28 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

place of the same name in New Jersey. I performed 
the voyage with a sorrowing heart. On our arrival I 
went from one vessel to another, but found none bound 
to New York. I then concluded to go on foot, and went 
on my way to Brown's point, so called, with a heart 
near bursting with grief I went into a house occupied 
by a middle aged lady, asked for lodging, it being near 
night and very rainy. She said, '• By your looks young 
sir, I perceive you have been weeping ; unburden your 
grief to me, and if in my power, I will assist you." 
told her of my situation, of the great mistake I had 
made, and the state of my funds, having to depend upon 
charity entirely, and how long I knew not, knowing of 
no other way of getting home, except by going on foot. 
She kindly offered me a share of her humble fare as 
long as I chose, or till some opportunity for continuing 
my journey offered itself She learned that a schooner 
loaded with wood would sail in a few days for New 
York in charge of her son, on which she engaged me 
a passage. I bade adieu to the kind lady when ready, 
and sailed for New York ; prosperous winds brought a 
speedy termination of the voyage ; the Captain gave 
me a dollar for my services and a home on his boat 
as long as we might both remain in port. 

Again I tried to get a berth on one of the many ves- 
sels lying at the docks, and at each of them received the 
same answer, ''you are a runaway boy, we have no place 
for you." I now resolved that home was the best place 
for me, at least for the present, though I was altogether 
unwilling to abandon wholly the idea of becoming 
a sailor ; found an opportunity of getting to East Had- 
dam, where on my arrival^ I found work for two or three 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 29 

months, at the expiration of which time I again started 
for home; was received most joyously by my friends, 
who entreated me to return to my wanderings no more. 

Again I went to work in the mill, with the same dis- 
contentedness a,s before, for the desire to roam was par- 
amount to all others, and I resolved to try my fortune 
in another direction. I made known my determination 
to a co-laborer in the mill and solicited his company ; 
he readily accepted my proposals. 

Together we shaped our course towards Boston, think- 
ing to get a berth at sea. The harbor being frozen 
rendered business very dull, and we gave up the idea 
through compulsion. Foiled in that attempt, we started 
for Charlestown, having our imaginations pointing high 
to our future greatness as soldiers; but a visit to the 
Navy Yard, which occupied some sixty acres, and the 
barracks, the soldiers' home, dispelled the charm entire- 
ly, and we hurried from the place and went to seek our 
fortunes elsewhere. ^Ye came to four corners, undecid- 
ed which course to steer. Setting up a stick we agreed to 
follow in the direction which that should fal]. True 
to this agreement we followed its dictation, and still 
continued on our course into the country, though upon 
a different tack. Our appetites were now considerably 
sharpened by the excessive cold, and we cast lots which 
should solicit food from the hand of charity. Chance 
threw the task upon me. This I was willing to bear, 
having been inured to such situations in my former 
wanderings. I would gladly avoided the necessity, but 
such was our need of food that I broke over all feelings 
of delicacy and entered a good looking farm house, 

where we found smoking hot one of those huge dishes 
3* 



30 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

of baked beans so common in New England, to which 
we did ample justice. After dinner we went on to the 
small manufacturing village of Shirley. There I ob- 
tained employment. My friend finding none, was oblig- 
ed to wander on towards home. I was employed three 
months, when a dullness of the times caused a suspen- 
sion in part of the business, and I turned my face home- 
ward again to see if the pent up village of Chicopee Falls 
would now hold out any inducement to my staying 
there. My stay in the mill was even more tedious than 
before, and I resolved to be there no longer. I encour- 
aged several of my associates to go with me. 

To get away with so many required some stratagem. 
I appointed Sunday, the first day of June, 1830, as the 
day for our starting. My repeated going and coming 
rendered the afi*ai3::^ as far as I was concerned, no uncom- 
mon thing, and but little was said to prevent me, sup- 
posing I Avas alone in it. 

At the appointed time we came together and started 
for Hartford; arrived there the first night; put up at 
the hotel. In the morning while standing in front of 
the house, we were accosted by a person who asked, 
^' if Ave wanted emplo^anent? '' We assured him that we 
did; he said, ''he had a quantity of flour which he 
wished removed to the store-house." That was not the 
business we wanted, but still we were willing to do it 
for the pay. We went to the store-house, and as soon as we 
were in he turned the key, saying he only wanted me, 
and that I should be soon called upon by Mr. Bird, 
who would be pleased to have me accompany him to 
Chicopee Falls. The affair was then plain to my mind ; 
we were traced, and found, and this means had been 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 31 

taken to get me back. I remarked that ^^ I should esteem 
it a great pleasure to ride with him, though my business 
arrangements were such that it would be rather incon- 
venient for me to go at that time." Soon Mr. Bird arriv- 
ed, saying he '^ was ordered to tie me behind his carriage 
and drive home." I asked by whom ordered; he made 
no reply. On condition of my keeping quiet I would 
be allowed to ride. All things ready, he ordered me into 
his carriage, also taking one other of my companions 
w^ith him, and drove off. 

I was rather puzzled to know why such means had 
been taken to get me, also what would be the conse- 
quence of my behavior. We put up that night at En- 
field and were treated worse than prisoners, for we were 
not even allowed bread and water, being sent to bed 
hungry. We were put in a room on the second floor, 
and fastened in. When all was still, we took the bed 
clothes, tied them in a string and attached the end to 
the bed post, thinking to let ourselves down from the 
window. Having adjusted all things, we went to the 
window, found it secured, and we had no means of re- 
moving the fastenings, consequently we were obliged to 
abandon the enterprise and submit calmly to our fate. 

At early light we were called and made to get ready 
for the remainder of the journey, not being allowed any 
breakfast. On our arrival at Chicopee Falls I was given 

up to the tender mercies of one the then reigning 

tyrant of Chicopee Falls, occupying the station highest 
in the gift of the Manufacturing Corporation, viz: that 
of Agent. His tyrann^^ I felt to be far more oppressive 
than that of any other power I was ever doomed to 
submit to. The remembrance of that morninj scene 



32 



LIFE AND ADVENTURES 



will cling closely to my mindj when all others shall have 
been obliterated. Years have passed since its transac- 
tion, yet my blood almost ceases to flow when by mem- 
ory I am carried back to those days. I went into the 
mill, but I went with a heart thirsting for revenge. My 
stay was short. By the first of July I had got a few 
dollars together, and I resolved that on the fourth I 
would declare myself free and independent, at least 

from the tyranny of . On the morning of the fifth, 

at an early hour, I bade adieu to home and all I held 
dear, resolved that never again would I even visit the 
scene of my childhood. I went to Hartford, took pas- 
sage to Boston, thence to New Bedford, shipped myself 
on board a brig bound to the coast of Africa, on a whal- 
ing expedition. 




OF WILLIAM TORREY. 33 



CHAPTER II. 

Leaves New Bedford. Touch at the Azores. Description of them. 
Encounter a heavy squall. The author is struck by lightning. Goes 
on shore at Fernando Po for water. Trade with the natives. Treat- 
ment offered a thief. See a native suffering with the Chiger. De- 
ceive a British Man-of-War. Have poor success and sail for the 
Brazil Banks. Providential escape at Barbadoes. Land at St. Vin- 
cent. Great frolic w^th the natives. Thrown in prison. Sail for N. 
Bedford. Storm in the Gulf Stream. Arrive at New Bedford. 

r^^l N the 17th of July, 1830, the brig Partheon, 
S J i ^ Capt. Maxfield, weighed anchor, spread her 
^ • I P sails to the breeze, and fast the land receded 
f^jxfuxn^ f^^^ view. I sat on deck and watched the 
last hill sink away in the dim distance, and the breach 
forever increasing between me and my native land. 
Then the joys of home, a mother's kind care, and a sis- 
ter's fond love rushed upon my mind and I half regret- 
ted the step I had taken. For their sakes I did regret, 
but when the remembrance of that ill-fated morning 
came to my mind, I sprang to my feet determined to 
share my joys and sorrows with none known to me by 
kindred or other ties. Striving to forget the past, I went 
to my duty. We stood for the Azores, where we took in 
water and provision. Those Islands lie between Europe 
and America, between 36^ and 39^ N. Lat. and contain 
about 1200 square miles, and belong to the Portuguese; 
have a clear sky and a salubrious air, and are extremely 
fertile, producing wine and various fruits in great abun- 



34 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

dance; are nearly free from venomous reptiles; are sup- 
posed to contain about 250,000 inhabitants. Our stay 
was short; stood for the Cape Verde Islands, about 15^ 
N. Lat., off the African Coast 300 miles; are about 
twenty in number, though many of them are of small 
note, being only barren rocks uninhabitable; one of 
them is a mere volcano, called Fogo. 

St. Jago is 150 miles in circumference, and the most 
fruitful, producing Indian Corn, Sugar, Cotton, Oranges, 
Limes, (fee. A great trade is carried on in the article of 
Madder, which grows in great abundance among the 
rocks. 

Pray a, situated on the easterly side of the group, has 
a beautiful harbor, and is much visited by vessels for 
refreshments. 

An immense business is done at the Island of Mayo, 
another of the same group, in making salt from the salt 
water, by the heat of the sun. At Spring tides it is re- 
ceived into a basin, or pan, formed by a sand bank, 
which runs for several miles along the coast. 

The salt costs nothing, except the raking of it togeth- 
er, and taking it to the boats, which is on asses, and at 
a very cheap rate. 

While off the Isle of St. Jago we encountered a tre- 
mendous squall, which came near throwing us upon the 
rocks, and would, had not we had a most skillful com- 
mander. After the wind abated we repaired the slight 
damage we received ; cruised for whales, but with the 
poorest success ; stood for the Brazil Banks, hoping to 
be more fortunate; touched at the Island of St. Thomas, 
which vnth Princes Island and Fernando Po, constitute 
what are termed the Guinea Group, The two first, St. 



OF WILLIAM TOKREY. 35 

Thomas and Princes Island, belong to the Portuguese; 
Fernando Po is occupied by the British. At Princes 
Island we were allowed liberty on shore ; that is a privi- 
lege of one day on shore granted to one half of the crew 
at a time, while the remaining ones attend to the ship's 
duties. 

We remained about these islands a few days, taking 
three whales only. This was about the season of the 
year for violent tornadoes, which greatly impeded our 
operations, being constantly obliged to be on lookout, 
and in readiness for their approach. On whale ships 
sail is usually shortened at sundown and the vessel 
hove to under stern sails. One night while we were 
laying to, a violent squall suddenly arose, giving us 
hardly a moment's warning. The rain fell in torrents, 
the lightning played most vividly, which rendered the 
darkness still deeper. In executing the order, ''haul 
down the fore-top-mast stay-sail," the halyards became 
entangled. I sprang upon the windlass to extricate them ; 
at that moment the lightning struck, shivering the fore- 
top-gallant-mast and fore-top-mast into a thousand at- 
oms. The shock was sensibly felt throughout the ship, 
and most severely so by myself, leaving me senseless for 
a number of hours. 

Shaped our course for St. Thomas island, where we 
replaced our spars with such as the country afforded, 
being quite an inferior article, heavy and very brittle. 
Our vessel being repaired, we stood for the same ground 
again, where we cruised two months, entirely disheart- 
ened, by our bad luck, only taking two whales. 

Our water getting quite low we stood for the British 
Settlement on Fernando Po. We deemed it unwise to 



36 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

go on shore there on account of the dreadful sickness 
then prevaihng among the inhabitants. We sailed 
around the island till we came to a little harbor, lowered 
sailj and searched for water. The boat was manned by 
five oars-men with the captain. As we came around a 
point of landj we came suddenly upon several negro fam- 
ilies loitering upon the beach entirely naked. They did 
not perceive us until we were close in upon them, when 
they gave a loud whoop or yell which almost deafened 
us, and took to their heels. We ransacked their huts, 
found they possessed, and perhaps needed, but little, liv- 
ing by fishing principally. 

We searched in vain for water, took to our boats 
again and pulled along till we came to a little bay 
known as North West Bay, where we saw a number of 
natives fishing. We kept close in shore for fear of fright- 
ening them. Before we could cut off" their retreat, they 
saw us, gave one yell and most assiduously did they 
pull for the shore. We overtook one canoe ; they seemed 
very much frightened, and made attempts to jump over- 
board, when we held up bits of iron and other things 
as presents. They suffered us to come near them; find- 
ing us friends instead of enemies, they offered us water 
and wine made from the Palm Tree, which possesses 
most an excellent flavor. Those who had considered 
themselves very fortunate in escaping, came back bring- 
ing fowls and palm wine which they readily exchanged 
for our bits of old iron. Those trifles were considered 
by them as possessing great value. They would hang 
them about their persons and dance and jump about 
with greatest delight. Soon as they could be made to 
understand the nature of our visit, they sent a man with 



OF WILLIAIM TOKREY. 6i 

US, who took US a little way around to a most beautiful 
stream of pure cold water. Dismissing our pilot we 
stood for our vessel which was not then visible, think- 
ing to get the water the next morning. We pulled out 
of the harbor and saw our vessel hull down as it is 
termed, that is, nothing to be seen but the topmasts. 
Scarce a ripple was to be felt upon the water, so per- 
fectly glass-like did it appear. The sun was just setting 
in all its splendor, casting its long beautiful rays upon 
the still waters, rendering our situation certainly a most 
enviable one. Soon as the sunVlast flickering ray died 
upon the water, the moon pale and beautiful gladdened 
our hearts with her gentle rays. Caring but little to 
leave this fascinating spot, we pulled leisurely for the 
ship, reaching her at half-past ten. 

The next morning we stood into the harbor and came 
to anchor. The natives in great numbers came on 
board, wishing to exchange more of their fowls and 
wine for the poor, worthless bits of iron and other things, 
which we possessed. We noticed one with both hands 
cut ofl" at his wrists : and were informed, if we rightly in- 
terpreted their signs, that he was a thief, and that was 
one of their modes of punishment. In wishing to come on 
board, he threw his arms around the hauling part of the 
fore sheet, (a rOpe hanging at the ship's side) Avhich not 
being fast in-board gave way with his weight, and he 
fell into the sea. Not one of his fellows tendered him 
the helping hand. Some looked on without betraying 
the least emotion, while others with ribaldry and mirth 
saw the water close over him forever. He seemed to 
be an object of universal contempt. Whether his thiev- 



•^fe LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

ing propensities were coupled with other misdeeds I 
know not. 

Having obtained our supply of water and a goodly 
supply of provision and wine from the natives, we were 
allowed liberty on shore. Taking our guns with us we 
shot many birds. Soon as they fell the females would 
spring for them and pull out the largest feathers, with 
which to decorate their heads. In one excursion Ave 
found an old man lying on the sand suffering most in- 
tensely under the malady common to that and other 
African islands, also known in Brazil and other parts of 
South America, called the Chiger. It is supposed to be 
caused by an insect which deposits its eggs under the 
toes of the bare feet of the natives while walking in the 
sand, causing an inflammation, which if treated unskill- 
fully produces an incurable sore. I have seen those with 
their legs swollen nearly as large as the body. The sit- 
uation of the old man referred to was frightful beyond 
conception; his lips and cheeks were most entirely 
gone, leaving his jaw bone and teeth bare; his tongue 
and pallet, together with the roof of his mouth were 
also nearly consumed, rendering him speechless. With 
the greatest difiiculty he could drag himself along ; the 
most disagreeable odor filled the atmosphere around ; no 
hand of sympathy was extended to him; alone and 
friendless he was left to die. 

On our return we passed that way, and found his sor- 
rows had an end. By the blood on the ground and marks 
of violence on the body, we were satisfied his miseries 
were brought to an end by human hands. 

Went on board and stood for Princes Island, which 
lies about 150 miles to the southward. Saw a large 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 39 

sail to the windward ; at once supposed her to be a Bri- 
tish man-of-war, whose duty it is to guard against any 
depredations being committed by slavers or others on 
any foreign coast. Our captain knowing his vessel pre- 
sented rather a suspicious appearance, being rigged 
and painted in a rakish manner, and wishing to have a 
little sport, made sail, as if fearing such company. This 
had the desired effect. They immediately set her stud- 
ding sails and gave chase. The captain, to continue 
the joke, crowded all sail, which came near proving a 
joke of a serious nature to him, for the Englishman per- 
ceiving this, bellowed out in tones there was no mistak- 
ing, as a signal for us to heave to. This being unheed- 
ed, was quickly succeeded by one that told us full well 
of the fatal consequences of longer sporting with them. 
We hove to and sufi'ered her to come up with us, and 
when within hail, she asked the usual questions. Who 
are you7 Where bound ? &c., (fcc, lowered her boat, came 
on board, demanded the ship's papers, also the reason 
why we did not heave to at the first gun; was told that 
at that moment a spout was seen from aloft, and it was 
determined to find out what kind of whale it was, found 
it to be a hump-back, and there she blows again. For- 
tuimtely for him a whale of that kind happened to 
come in sight and aided much in carrying out the joke. 
Finding our situation different from what he feared, he 
made himself very agreeable, and spent some time with 
us; after exchanging Oil for Rum we soon parted. In 
a few days squared away for Princes Island, whither 
we were bound; entering the harbor, found the Man-of- 
war lying there; had liberty on shore; spent a few days 
very pleasantly indeed. Got under weigh again, bound 



40 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

\ for the West Indies, with the heaviest press of sail we 
were able to carry. It was our intention to sight Bar- 
badoes and run down to St. Vincent for our ship's sup- 
plies. The wind being very fair we overrun our reckon- 
ing. The night also setting very dark and foggy, we 
were not avv'-are of our proximity to Barbadoes until 
Ave found our vessel going at the rate of ten knots in the 
midst of shipping. With greatest despatch the. helm 
was put '4iard-a-port,'' the studding-sail tacks and 
braces let go, and the vessel brought to the wind with- 
out the least harm, though great was the danger. Stood 
out of the harbor and made St. Vincent. After a voyage 
of forty days came to anchor at a small harbor com- 
monly called the Bottle and Glass, so called from a 
large round rock at its mouth, which in the sun's reflec- 
tion very much resembles in its general appearance a 
huge blue glass bottle. 

It was exceedingly pleasant after a long voyage to 
again get liberty on shore. The captain advanced us 
money which we spent among the natives, giving but 
little restraint to our passions. We were left on shore 
one night for some reason with no means of getting on 
board, also without money and without shelter, for soon 
as our money was gone, it was no object for the people 
to shelter us. Some of the company proposed s\^m- 
ming, and suiting the action to the words, stripped their 
clothes, lashed them to their backs and started, but soon 
returned, sick of the undertaking. There being a house 
(if the huts of the natives can be called houses) near 
where we had spent some of our money, we concluded 
to try their generosity. We knocked, but received no 
answer. It was then proposed to wait upon ourselves 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 41 

in. I was chosen leader ; laid hold of the boards on the 
side of the house, sung a song, and with the chorus giv- 
ing a -^ong pull, a strong pull and a pull altogether," 
away she came, and we walked in. (It will be borne in 
mind the houses are built slightly indeed, consequently 
our task was not very heavy.) On our entrance, the 
old lady yelled out '^ My God, ye Buckra (white) man 
no stop come in do (door) pull'e side house down.'' 

As I had been chosen leader, or captain, I found the 
liquor, which was in a huge jug, and took possession of 
that, set myself on the floor by the jug and dealt out 
as their several cases demanded. There we spent the 
night, singing, dancing, and as a common accompani- 
ment, drinking. 

With the morning came the constable, who took us 
off to jail with as little ceremony as we walked into the 
hut. The captain hearing of our confinement came and 
paid five dollars each, as a fine, and took us back, Ave 
thinking that we had one of the finest times imagin- 
able. 

Got ready for sea the next day, called all hands, 
found one man missing. What became of him we never 
knew. We cruised about the islands two or three weeks 
fo^whales; the same poor success which we experi- 
enced on other grounds attended us here, and sick at 
heart we turned our course towards New Bedford, with 
only 250 barrels Oil, when we should have had full 
ship. Our ship was capable of holding 750 barrels. 

In the gulf stream we encountered a tremendous gale 
from the north east, which contending with the strong 
current which ran in a contrary direction, (from the 

south west.) caused a very high and irregular sea. We 

4^- 



42 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

shortened sail and ran the vessel as long as possible. 
The night set in so extremely dark that Ave were un- 
able to distinguish one object from another, only by the 
lightning's flash. I remained at the wheel from eight 
to twelve, P. M. At one time a heavy sea suddenly 
struck us upon our quarter, breaking the davits, (by 
which the boats are hoisted) sweeping the boat across 
the deck, bursting the bulwarks ofl' and buried me up 
to the middle in water. I felt as if I was alone upon 
deck, for surely no one could possibly be there who was 
not previously lashed. The wretchedness of the situa- 
tion the pen cannot picture. At length I felt a hand 
laid heavily upon me, at the same time the well known 
voice of the captain cries, ^^ who has the helm?" ^^Bill, 
sir," says I. An extra man was offered me at the helm 
if I wished. This I declined, feeling desirous of pre- 
serving the strength of the crev/, if possible, for greater 
emergencies. I left the helm at twelve o'clock and w^ent 
below. At four all hands were called to make sail, the 
wind having abated, though the sea rolled so very heavily, 
that the vessel was in great danger of being dismasted. 
At noon all possible sail was made. During the night 
Ave saw Cape Hatteras hght, found ourselves rather 
nearer than prudence would permit, as it is one of |he 
most dangerous places in the known world, hauled our 
wind and stood off from the shore. We crowded all 
sail possible, and reached New Bedford about the first 
of April, having been absent nine months. 

No sooner had I stepped on my own native soil, 
than home with all its allurements presented itself to 
my mind. I well knew the joy my return would bring 
to those parents from Avhose roof I had thus long ab- 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 



43 



sented myself, and I was almost persuaded to forsake 
the sailor's hard and bitter lot and turn again to the 
home of my youth, and wander no more. But then my 
mind would revert to the reception I met with on my 
last return, and I resolved to redeem the pledge made 
when I last left home. 

Not having cleared my expenses I v/as left with no 
alternative save going to sea again, and I engaged to go 
on board the same vessel again, under the command 
of Charles Hammen who was mate of her the previous 
voyage. While the ship was fitting for the voyage I 
run one trip to Baltimore, on board the brig Henry, 
Captain Taber, mate, Coleman, with oil. Returned 
laden with flour. This incident in itself considered is 
of little note; but the circumstance of my becoming 
acquainted VvUth those men, particularly the mate, after- 
wards, as will be seen, proved of the greatest import- 
ance to me. 




44 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 



CHAPTER III. 

Sail from New Bedford. The Crew are put upon allowance. Reach 
the Azores. Proceed to the Brazil Banks. Return to the African 
coast. Great fear arises from breakers. Prove to be an innumera- 
ble number of canoes filled with natives who come to the ship. 
Their awful appearance. Serious difficulty arises with one of the 
crew, who is put on shore. Cruise about for whale. Trade with 
the natives of St. Thomas. Procure two monkeys, who render 
much service in killing cockroaches. The treatment given the 
crew at Fernando Po. Kindly interference of British officers. 
The crew are obliged to catch their own provision. Sail for 
home. I take a few flying fish, which the captain claims as his. 
Threw them into the sea. Great rage of the Captain. Reach 
New Bedford. The sailors leave the Captain to secure the 
sails. 

^"^^^ITH prosperous winds we cleared the har- 
bor. Spread all canvass to the breeze, and 
P "^W ^ soon our native land was seen only in the 
^..njxfxjxfxfx^ distance. For a length of time, every thing 
passed finely and promised a happy voyage ; but we 
were doomed to disappointment and sorrow. Our com- 
mander, conscious of the authority vested in him, put it 
in force. We were first put upon allowance of only one 
pound of bread, and one half pound of meat. This 
caused but little murmuring; each confined his sorrows 
to his ovv^i bosom, and did his master's bidding with 
the strictest care ; and would have remained so had our 
sorrows ended there. The master was often heard to 
sav it would not do to sive us even as 8:reat an allow- 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 45 

ance as he then did. for we were, Hke highly fed horses, 
quite unmanageable. 

We touched at the Azores, or western islands, and 
took on a fresh supply/ of provisions — such as potatoes, 
onions, &c. Thence to the isle of Saul, of the Cape 
Yerdes group, where we spent a day and night ; got a 
quantity of fish and sea-fowl eggs. At St. Mary's, of 
the same group, we proposed leaving one of the crew 
who was sick on board; but the consul would not re- 
ceive him, consequently, we were obliged to keep him, 
and do the best w^e could. Here we were attended with 
the same poor success that had characterized this and 
the former voyage. 

Sick at heart at our poor luck, we steered for the 
coast of Brazil. We made the coast about the first of 
January, where we cruised until the last of the month, 
without any profit at all; and again squared away for 
the African coast. Made the island of Anoben, which 
lies to the southwest of St. Thomas, and also belons^s to 
Portugal. At this place we learned, by an American 
trader which we spoke, of a large company of pirates 
who had been driven ashore a few months previous. 
They had a large boat, and lay secreted in some of the 
rivers or creeks until the near approach of some ship, 
when they would rush out from their hiding place, and 
seize upon the ship before the crew were fully aware of 
their danger. They had already secured to themselves 
many valuable cargoes. As might be expected from 
receiving such information, we gave the island a '' wide 
berth:'' cruised away to the northward, and touched at 
Princes island. We cruised among the group for 
length of time. 



46 



LIFE AND ADVENTURES 



One night, in the gulf of Biafra, between Fernando 
Po and the main land, we as usual had shortened sail. 
The current drifted us nearer shore than we were 
aware. The man aloft cried, ^- Breakers off the lee 
beam." The lead was cast, and no bottom found. The 
man aloft again cried, ^' Breakers off the lee beam." 
Again the lead was cast 100 fathoms; yet it found no 
resting place. '^ Breakers off the lee beam" was the 
continued cry. On a still nearer approach, we found 
the reported breakers to be an innumerable number of 
canoes filled with natives, singing and shouting loudly, 
coming with great speed towards our vessel. Consid- 
ering them enemies, we set about making our defence 
as strong as possible with the poor supply of arms 
usually carried on whale ships. When within about 
300 yards they stopped, seemingly in consultation. 
Soon, one of their number set off for the vessel. When 
he came alongside, we showed him our arms. He held 
up elephant teeth ; signifying that he came as a trader, 
and not an enemy. We suffered him to come on board. 
He was a very large man, seeming to possess great 
muscular strength, and nearly naked. In his ears, 
nose, around his neck, wrists, and ancles, were gold 
and ivory rings. Going on the quarter deck, he gave a 
sharp, shrill whistle as a signal to his comrades ; in an 
instant every paddle was in motion, beating time to 
their wild songs. Soon they were at our ship's sides. 
We would allow only a few on board at a time. Never, 
in the whole course of my wanderings, have I seen man 
presenting so terrific an appearance, — they were scarred 
from head to foot in a most brutal manner. Whether this 
was done in actual wars or not I am unable to deter- 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. ^ 

mine; but, as they were nearly all so, I thought it must 
have been done among themselves, that they might ap- 
pear thus frightful. Their teeth^ which were of the 
purest white, were filed sharp, resembling the teeth of 
a saw. We traded with them, taking a few teeth, and 
a small quantity of gold dust. The breeze freshened a 
little, and they left us. The first one that came was 
the last to leave. After the others were a little way 
from the ship he threw his canoe (which he brought on 
board when he came) over, then jumped after it, and 
pulled for the shore. 

We lay five days becalmed within a few miles of the 
shore. Sometimes towing our vessel with boats, at 
other times, getting a little breeze, we would take all 
possible advantage of it. Still we gained but little. At 
last the wind favoring us, we conquered the current, 
and stood away for St. Thomas, where we went on 
shore. An Irishman, one of the number, who was nat- 
urally a very bad man, procured some spirits with a 
shirt which he took with him, which rendered him a 
perfect demon. According to his own statement, he 
had been a term of years on board of pirate vessels. 
At any rate he had had many a skirmish, for he was 
literally scarred from head to foot. When the boat came 
along side, he called the Captain many hard names of 
which he took but little notice, knowing his situation, 
and went below to be clear of him. Jack took a pike, 
(an instrument of pointed iron, used to handle blubber 
with,) and threw it with great force at a pig. Missing 
his aim, it lodged in the bulwarks. The Captain heard 
the noise, and came immediately upon deck to learn the 
cause. On inquiring who threw it, Jack stepped up. 



48 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

and promptly said, '' I, sir, and what are you a going to 
do about it.'' The Captain ordered him put in irons; 
but the ofScers found it no small undertaking, for he 
was quite at home in such skirmishes. He went below, 
and endeavored to influence the crew to join him in 
seizing the officers, and taking command of the vessel ; 
but in this he was unsuccessful. The cook informed 
the ofiicers of his proceedings, and they seized upon all 
of the arms, spades, boarding knives, &c., belonging to 
the vessel, and remained under arms during the night. 
Then most vividly must the treatment the Captain had 
given his crew com.e before his mind. He had done 
nothing to gain their confidence and respect, but rather 
to the contrary, much to excite their hatred towards 
him. At the moment when he most needed their sym- 
pathy and aid, he had nothing to expect, or even hope 
at their hands, but stern retaliation. Pent up, as he 
was, within the narrow confines of a whale ship, where 
the spirit of mutiny Avas breathed forth, knowing of no 
one among his crew whom he could call his friend, 
must have rendered his situation one not in the least 
degree enviable. But hardened and reckless as all 
sailors are usually called, his crew were actuated by 
higher and better motives. The presumptuous insinua- 
tions of Jack were instantly repelled. No one for a 
single moment entertaining th§ idea. Rather than raise 
a hand against him, to whom they had pledged their 
fidelity, although he had been guilty of a nonconform- 
ance on his part, they, one and all, would even sufier 
the horrors of starvation, which, by his decree, were 
then seemingly before them. It was hoped and ex- 
pected that this moment of trial being over, he would 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 49 

do something to ameliorate our condition, and secure to 
himself that confidence so highly necessary to every 
commander. 

The next morning Jack^was called upon quarter 
deck. The Captain asked him what he meant by such 
abuse as he had given the previous evening. He, in 
reply, shaking his clenched fist in his face, said he had 
made food for sharks of many a better man than him, 
and such would be his fate should he remain long on 
board. His choice was given him between public flog- 
ging and leaving the ship. He chose to be set on shore, 
saying he was not born to be flogged on board a whale 
ship, threatening to kill the Captain before he left. 

A boat was lowered away under charge of the second 
mate, into which he was ordered with his effects, the 
Captain and other officers standing by under arms. 
When we reached the shore he bade each an adieu in 
turn ; shouldered his bundle, and started for the woods; 
and we knew no more of him. 

We remained at the island several days. Bought 
several monkeys of the small kind, which, beside the 
amusement they afforded, rendered themselves of much 
service in ridding the ship of cockroaches with which 
it was swarmed. The service thus rendered the sailor 
proves to them their own destruction, for they cannot 
live many weeks after eating them. The cockroach is 
a very troublesome insect which gets into vessels, and 
oftentimes attacks the sleeping sailor, eating the dead 
skin from the feet and hands. The bite is attended 
with much pain, leaving the flesh tender for a long 
time. 

Some difficulty arose between the officers and crew 



60 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

which terminated in hard words. The Captain swear- 
ing that, as our leader was gone, we should feel his 
power. Our already small allowance was lessened one 
half. This our natures could not submit to. When we 
were wanted to go in the boats we were scarce able to 
work the oars. This called out the worst abuse the 
Captain could invent. We made Fernando Po, an Eng- 
lish island; and took on wood, which we did by carry- 
ing it on our shoulders, and wading in water to our 
middle, a man being placed over us, who exercised 
his authority with scarce less severity than a Brazilian 
slave driver. An English man-of-war being at anchor 
there, and seeing us thus driven, sent her boats along 
side, and ordered us all to our ship. The mate, who 
had us in charge, feeling affronted that his orders should 
be put at nought, hesitated about complying with the or- 
der; but, seeing their determination to be obeyed, ordered 
us to the ship. A lieutenant accompanied us; and, 
when on board, sent other hands to discharge the boats, 
and ordered our clothes changed soon as possible. Af- 
ter severely reproving the Captain for thus exposing 
our lives in that climate, and in the sickly season, too, 
he left the ship. 

The next day we were allowed liberty on shore; 
passed a burial ground, and saw eight or ten open graves, 
fitted receptacles for the victims of yellow fever, who 
were falling almost momentarily. Four months pre- 
vious to this time, a regiment of 850 soldiers were sent 
from England, of which only fifteen then remained; 
and of the thirty females who accompanied them, none 
were left to tell their sad fate. Some of the scenes to 
v/hich I was witness, were horrid beyond degree. It 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 51 

seemed to attack more generally, and with greater vir- 
ulence, those of intemperate habits; and amid such 
scenes men would go to the intoxicating bowl, lay 
down to move no more, and, in a few hours, be in a 
state of putrefaction. I saw on one occasion a funeral 
procession (of a boatswain who had died intoxicated) 
which consisted of only six men, and all of them drunk, 
staggering their way along to the grave-yard. In as- 
cending a small hill the cof&n fell from their shoulders ; 
the corpse broke its rude boards, and rolled part way 
down the hill. They carried the coffin to the top, 
then placed the body in, and with oaths and impreca- 
tions went on their way. 

; ' Gladly we left this place so wretched, and proceeded 
to St. Thomas. Took on a few yams, hogs, &c. Spoke 
a trader, of whom we procured a quantity of dried 
turtle ; but little of it fell to the poor seamen. We still 
remained upon allowance. The fear which the officers 
were under in the affair of Jack had entirely subsided, 
leaving our situation no better than before. 

A new barrel of beef was opened one day for the offi- 
cers which was much hurt. It was thought to be good 
enough for the seamen, and another opened for the 
officers. The meat when cooked was worse than be- 
fore, and we presumed to show it to the Captain, who 
flew into a rage, and said if he could get any that was 
worse we should eat it. We got some lines and caught 
a few fish. The Captain finding we were like to live 
well that way, took our allowance of pork from us, 
which obliged us to eat our fish boiled, and without 
salt. Thus we spent seven months, most anxiously 
wishing for a termination of the voyage. 



52 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

We Stood away for the Azores. The Captain wish- 
ing to get a man to fill the place of the one left, tried to 
steal a Portuguese soldier; had him secreted on board ; 
but was found out, and fined $200. This enraged him, 
and severity was our lot in consequence. His haste in 
leaving that place was great. We had been out only 
about twelve hours, when heavy squalls from the 
northeast struck us. The wind increased. We lay to, 
under a storm try-sail, fourteen days. During this time 
we were kept picking oakum, having but six hours rest. 
The Captain endeavored the while to teach us the 
value of true, heartfelt thankfulness. As the wind 
abated, we spread sail for New Bedford. Happ)?-, in- 
deed, were we to learn that home was our next point to 
be reached. We were kept on allowance during the 
passage which occupied 60 days. We caught and eat 
porpoises to satisfy the demands of hunger. Those ac- 
quainted with the article can form some idea of our 
misery. 

One night, in the gulf stream, a number of flying fish 
came on board, which I took, and was preparing for my 
breakfast, when the Captain came along, saying ^'yoa 
have had fine luck. Think you have got enough for 
my breakfast ?" and at the same time called the cook to 
take them. I seized the pail and threw them over- 
board, '^ saying you shall not have them any how." His 
rage knew no bounds; he called me every thing which he 
could find words to utter. I reminded him of the speedy 
termination of the voyage. He could find no way to 
punish this insolence as he called it. Finally, he set us 
all scrubbing the deck with sand, although it rained so 
hard that it kept one man constantly putting it on. 



OF WILLUM TORREY. 63 

Stopping the scupper, the rolling of the vessel would 
wash the water and sand from one side to the other. 
We were obliged to rub from 7 to 12 o'clock ; then to 
dinner, (if boiled porpoise and bread can be called din- 
ner,) back again to scrubbing, and thus we finished the 
day. 

The next day we spoke the ship Boston, Capt. Reed, 
of Fair Haven, bound to Brazil, whaling; they offered 
us provisions, which our Captain refused, probably 
thinking it economy for his men to catch their own. 
In a few days we saw Ia.nd, took on a pilot ; soon came 
to anchor. As is always the case, seamen's duty is 
done the moment the anchor is let go, though they 
usually stow the sails ; but the moment the anchor was 
cast we took our things, put them in a boat to go ashore, 
leaving the sails hanging to the yards. The Captain 
begged of us to stow them. We told him we had been 
with him long enough, and were now happily free from 
his authority: and that it would give us much pleas- 
ure to see him stow them himself He was soon leav- 
ing the ship himself; for the owners came on board, and 
ordered him, and all that he had, out of the ship imme- 
diately, or it would go overboard. Thus terminated 
my second voyage with still poorer success than my 
former one, having taken only 150 barrels sperm, and 
10 black fish oil, after a voyage of nearly 13 months. 
This voyage, like the first, left me in debt, and with no 
other way, seemingly, than to again try and see what 
another voyage would do. I went to the boarding 
house without a cent in my pocket. 

5=* 



64 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 




CHAPTER IV. 

Sail on board the Huntress, bound for the Pacific, on a whaJing 
Expedition. Encounter a heavy Storm. A Man lost. Reach the 
Falklands. Description of them. Storm at the Cape. Icebergs. 
Island of Juan Fernandez. Arrive at the Sandwich Islands. 
A Sketch of them. 

^^^^^^ shipped myself on board the HuntresSj Capt. 
Postj then fitting for a cruise to the Pacific. 
We set sail from New Bedford, 1832, August 
3d. About the middle of the month a violent 
gale arose from the southeast. We stowed our top-gal- 
lant-sails ; reefed our top-sails ; furled our main course, 
and stood to the eastward. The gale increasing, we 
were obliged to furl our fore and mizen top-sails, jib 
and spankers, and heave our ship to under close reefed 
main-top-sail, fore-sail, and fore-top-mast, main and 
mizen stay-sail. Thus we ran many hours. The wind 
subsiding in a degree, enabled us to run quarterly with 
the wind, with fore-top-mast studding-sail set. Most of 
the hands were below when the ship fetched b. lurch 
and roll at the same time, with a head sea, carrying the 
fore-top-mast in three pieces, and the top-gallant-mast ; 
springing the main and mizen top-mast; throwing one 
man who was aloft into the v/ater. A boat was lower- 
ed, but no trace of him found save his hat. By the blood 
on the rigging, it was thought he received serious injury 
before he reached the water. All hands were called, 
and the wreck cleared fast as possible. 



OF WILLIAM TOREEY. 55- 

Most of our crew were new hands ; ' and out of 30 
men only six were found who could go aloft with any 
degree of usefulness in rough weather. -Having spare 
spars, we were soon rigged again. Made the Azores. 
Took one whale from which we got 60 barrels of oil. 
We also replaced our spars; got potatoes, onions, 
oranges, &c., from them. We touched at Cape Verdes; 
got hogs, goats, &c. ; then shaped our course for the 
Falkland islands, ^^so denominated by the English, in 
1639, in honor, it is supposed of Lord Viscount Falk- 
land. The soil is bad, and the climate is disagreea- 
ble, and the shores are beaten with perpetual storms. 
Nothing but reeds and moss cover the ground. The 
sky is perpetually concealed from view by thick 
fogs. The extreme cold cannot be alleviated by 
fire, as there is neither wood or coal; and even 
a ship in port is covered with constant snow. The 
shores are frequented, however, by considerable quan- 
tities of sea-fowl and fish. The penguins, called 
swans by the Spaniards, supply a scanty and mis- 
erable food. Walruses, and others of the seal kind, 
abound. 

^- The history of the disputes between Great Britain 
and Spain, concerning these miserable islands, fur- 
nishes another of the evidences of the necessity of the 
study of geography among statesmen, as nothing but a 
complete geographical ignorance concerning them, could 
have raised such an unnecessary alarm on both sides." 

We left the Falklands to double the cape. A few 
days after, a heavy wind arose from the north. We 
shortened sail as the gale increased, until we come down 
to close reefed main-top-sail, scudding the ship for four 



66 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

days. The sea ran most fearfully high, throwing the 
water in at one side, and putting it out at the other. 
While the ship was thus laboring, we were ordered to 
lighten her top hamper, by sending down the fore and 
mizen top-gallant and main royal yards. While another 
and myself were in the act of lowering the main royal 
yard the ship rolled very quick and heavy. I missed my 
hold and falHng. struck on the main-top-sail reef tackle, 
which was very tight and fast. I struck on my side, 
turned a complete somerset, fell again, and thrust my 
legs between the shrouds and ratline, and there hung. 
The mate hearing the rigging shake, cried out, *^ who is 
there?" I answered some way, scarce knowing how. 
He, knowing my voice, came running to help me to the 
deck, when I fainted and fell. He picked me up, and 
placed me on the after hatchway. At that moment a 
tremendous sea struck the vessel, carrying the mate 
and myself into the lee scupper. Assistance being at 
hand, we were taken out, and I carried to the cabin. 
It was sometime before I came to my senses. Found 
three of my ribs broken, and bruised much elsewhere. 
I was carried into the forecastle, where I remained suf- 
fering most extremely for a long time ; and have hardly, 
I may say, recovered from the effects to the present day. 
The gale continued with unabated fury. The latitude 
being nearly run out, the ship was hove to with her 
head to the west. There we lay drifting four weeks. 
Fell in with mountains of ice, commonly known as 
icebergs, of vast dimensions, and of almost every form. 
An estimate was made of the size of one supposed to be 
the largest seen. It seemingly was an hundred and 
fifty or two hundred feet high : and, as is a fact, 



OF WILLIAM TORREY, 57. 

the volume of ice is to that of sea water as 10 to 9, con- 
sequently the ice, which rises above the water, is to 
that which sinks below as 1 to 9. Then allowing this 
mass to have been 150 feet above the water, and of 
regular shape, it would sink below the surface about 
1350 feet, making a huge mass of some 1500 feet high. 
Capt. Cook, in his voyage in 1773, describes one as be- 
ing 600 feet high above the water, making, as he esti- 
mated, 5,400 feet to be its entire height. •• And yet," 
says Cook, " the sea broke over them.'^ They exhibited 
for a few moments a view very pleasing to the eye; 
but a sense of danger soon filled the mind with horror; 
for had the ship struck against the weather side of one 
of those islands, when the sea ran high, she would in- 
stantly have been dashed in pieces. 

At length these islands became as familiar to those on 
board as the clouds and the sea. Whenever a strong 
reflection of white was seen on the skirts of the sky, 
near the horizon, then ice was sure to be encountered. 
Notwithstanding which, the substance was not entirely 
white, but often tinged, especially near the surface of the 
sea. with a most beautiful sapphirine, or rather bery- 
line blue, evidently reflected from the water. This blue 
color sometimes appeared twenty or thirty feet above 
the surface, and was probably produced by particles of 
sea water, which had been dashed against the mass in 
tempestuous weather, and had penetrated into its inter- 
stices. In the evening, the sun setting just behind one 
of these masses, tinged its edges with gold, and reflected 
on the entire mass a beautiful sufl'usion of purple. In 
the larger masses were frequently observed shades or 
casts of white, lying above each other in strata, some- 



58 



LIFE AND ADVENTURES 



times of six inches, and at other times of a foot in 
height. 

This appearance seemed to confirm the opinion enter- 
tained relative to the increase and accumulation of such 
huge masses of ice, by heavy falls of snow at different 
intervals; for snow being of various kinds, small 
grained, and large grained, in light feathery locks, &c., 
the various degrees of compactness may account for the 
various colors of strata. The approximation of several 
fields of ice, of dijfferent magnitudes produces a very 
singular phenomenon. 

The smaller of these masses are forced out of the 
water, and thrown on the larger ones, until at length 
an aggregate is formed of a tremendous height. These 
accumulated bodies of ice float in the sea like so many 
rugged mountains, and are continually increased in 
height by the freezing of the spray of the sea, and the 
melting of the snow which falls on them. 

The collision of great fields of ice, in high latitudes is 
attended by a noise, which for a time, takes away the 
sense of hearing any thing beside; and that of the 
smaller fields, with a grinding of unspeakable horror. 

The water which dashes against the mountainous 
ice, freezes into an infinite variety of forms, and pre- 
sents to the admiring view of the voyager, ideal towns, 
streets, churches, steeples, and almost every form which 
imagination can picture to itself. 

Our course was very much impeded by immense 
fields of low ice, the extent of which could scarcely be 
seen ; these low fields, called the meadows, are the 
sporting grounds of seals, and often hundreds are seen 
at a time frolicking on them. After passing six weeks 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 69 

in dodging the ice, the wind favored us, and we shaped 
our course for the island of Juan Fernandez, which lies 
off the coast of Chili, about 350 miles, is inhabited by a 
few Spaniards, and is famous as having been the soli- 
tary residence of Alexander Selkirk, a Scotchman, 
whose singular adventure gave rise to a novel known 
as the adventures of Robinson Crusoe. We spent a few 
days on shore getting goats, potatoes, fruit, ifcc, for the 
ship; from thence we stood for the Sandwich Islands, 
and came to anchor at Hawaii about the first of April. 

Stewart in his Geographical sketch of them, says : — 
^^ The Sandwich Islands are situated in the Pacific ocean, 
between 18^^ 50' and 22^ 20' north latitude, and be- 
tween 154^ 53' and 160'^ 15', west longitude from 
Greenwich. They are about 2800 miles distant from 
the coast of Mexico, on the east ; about 5000 from the 
shores of China, on the west ; and 2700 from the Society 
Islands on the south. 

^^The Islands are ten in number, stretching, as maybe 
seen from a chart, in a flattened curve, E. S. E., and 
W. N. W. in the following order: Hawaii, Mau-i, Mo- 
lokini, Kahulawe, Lanai, Molokai, Oahu, Kau-ai,Nihan, 
and Kaula. 

^^ Hawaii, the most southern and eastern island, is the 
largest of the group. It is about ninety-seven miles 
long, and seventy-eight broad, covering a surface of 
4000 square miles, and containing 85,000 inhabitants. 

''Maui lies northwest from Hawaii, and is separated 
from it by a channel twenty-four miles wide. This 
island formed by two mountainous peninsulas, con- 
nected by a narrow neck of low land, is forty-eight 
miles long, and at its greatest width twenty-nine miles 



60 LIFE AND ADVENTURES ' 

wide. It covers about 600 square miles, and is sup- 
posed to have a population of 20,000 people. 

^'Molokini is a barren rock, rising only fifteen or 
twenty feet above the level of the ocean, at a distance of 
four or five miles from the western shore of the southern 
peninsular of Maui. Kahulawe lies in the same direc- 
tion from Maui, six or eight miles beyond Molokini. It 
is only eleven miles long, and eight broad, and has but 
few inhabitants. 

^'Lanai is situated twenty miles northwest from Kahu- 
lawe, and ten or twelve miles directly west from the 
northern peninsula of Maui. It is seventeen miles long 
and nine broad, covering about 110 square miles, with 
a population of 2000 or 3000. 

'* Molokai lies west-north-west from Maui, and is sep- 
arated from it by a channel ten miles wide. A passage 
of about the same width divides it on the south from 
Lanai. Molokai is forty miles long and seven broad, 
covering 170 square miles, and containing three or four 
thousand inhabitants. 

^' Oahu lies twenty-seven miles northwest from Mo- 
lokai ; is forty-six miles in length, and twenty-three in 
breadth, with a surface of 520 square miles, and a pop- 
ulation of 20,000. It affords the best harbor in the 
group, and is the most fertile and beautiful of the 
islands. 

*^ Kauai is seventy-five miles northwest from Oahu. 
It is thirty-three miles long, and twenty-eight broad, 
covering 520 square miles, and has about 10,000 
inhabitants. 

'^ Nihan lies southwest from Kauai fifteen miles, and is 
twenty miles long and seven broad. The number of its 



W WILLIAM TORREY. 61 

inhabitants is small. Kaula, situated seventeen miles 
southwest of Nihan, like Molokini, is an uninhabited 
rockj visited only for the eggs of sea fowl which fre- 
quent it in great numberSj and there hatch their young. 

These islands were discovered in the year 1778, by 
Captain James Cook, of the British Navy, and from 
him in honor of Earl Sandwich, the first lord of the 
admiralty, received the name by which they are at 
present designated. The tragical and lamented death 
of this celebrated navigator at Hawaii, in the succeed- 
ing year, caused their existence to be made known to 
the civilized world, Avith an excitement of feeling. that 
deeply stamped the event on the public mind. No 
foreign ship visited the group again until the year 
1786, when the ill-fated La Perouse touched at Maui ; 
and about the same time two vessels, engaged in the 
trade of the North-west Coast, procured refreshments at 
the island of Oahu. These were early succeeded by 
several others: and in 1792 and 1794, by the expedition 
under the command of Vancouver. '' 

After having secured a sufi&cient quantity of provision, 
we were allowed hberty on shore: this liberty to one 
who had been shut up within the confines of a ship, was 
indeed exhilarating. 

In one of our rambles we fell in with a native, with 
whom we bargained for a dinner. He immediately sat 
himself about it. When cooked, it was served up in a 
calabash, or gourd; we seated ourselves upon the 
ground, around the dishes, and commenced operation; 
all were particularly fond of the meat which he had 
furnished, yet knew not what it was ; on inquiry, we 
were told in broken English, ^-poy-poy," at the same 



62 



LIFE AND ADVENTURES 



time he gave a most knowing kind of a laugh. We then 
half suspected foul play, and again sternly interrogating 
him as to the kind of meat, received in reply, ''cow, 
cow," which signified dog. Each looked at the other, 
scarce knowing what to do. Some began vomiting ; as 
for myself, I relished it, while supposing it something 
else; and at that late hour thought it folly to make 
much ado about it. The joke was often referred to 
quite to the discomfiture of those upon whom it was 
forced. 

We were next allowed liberty of forty-eight hours on 
shore, which we improved by visiting the volcano of 
Kilauea. 

As this volcano was visited in the year 1825, by Lord 
Byron, S. C. Stewart, and other distinguished and 
scientific gentlemen, accompanied by the officers and 
crew of his majesty's ship Blonde, with an escort of 
one hundred natives, I would refer my readers to a 
description given by Stewart, believing it to be the most 
graphic ever given, which will be found in the follow- 
ing chapter. 




OF WILLIAM TORREY, 63 




CHAPTER V. 

Description of the Volcano of Kilanea, at Hawaii. 

VERY preparation having been previously 
made, we left the harbor shortly after sunrise. 
p -wy ^ The uncommon beauty of the morning proved 
^,,fxjxfxf\^ ^ ^^^^^ omen of the delightful weather with 
which we were favored during the whole of our ab- 
sence. The rich coloring of Mounakea in the early 
sun, never called forth higher or more general admira- 
tion. The brightness of the sky, the purity of the air, 
the freshness, sweetness, and cheerfulness of all nature, 
excited a buoyancy of spirit favorable to the accom- 
plishment of the walk of forty miles, which lay between 
us and the object of our journey. 

For the first four miles the country was open and 
uneven, and beautifully sprinkled with clumps, groves, 
and single trees of the bread fruit, pandanus, and can- 
dle tree. We then came to a wood, four miles in width, 
the outskirts of which exhibited a rich and delightful 
foliage. It was composed principally of the candle 
tree, whose whitish leaves and blossoms afforded a fine 
contrast to the dark green of the various parasitical 
plants which hung in luxuriant festoons and pendants 
from their very tops to the ground, foiiDing thick and 
deeply shaded bowers round their trunks. The interior 
was far less interesting, presenting nothing but an im- 
penetrable thicket, on both sides of the path. This was 



64 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

excessively rough and fatiguing, consisting entirely of 
loose and pointed pieces of lava, which from their 
irregularity and sharpness, not only cut and tore our 
shoes, but constantly endangered our feet and ankles. 
The high brake, ginger, &c., which border and over- 
hung the path, were filled with the rain of the night, 
and added greatly, from their wetness, to the unpleas- 
antness of the walk. An hour and a half, however, 
saw us safely through, and refreshing ourselves in the 
charming groves with which the wood was here again 
bordered. The whole of the way from this place to 
within a short distance of the volcano, is very much of 
one character. The path, formed of black lava, so 
smooth in some places as to endanger falling, and still 
showing the configuration of the molten stream as it 
had rolled down the gradual descent of the mountain, 
leads midway through a strip of open uncultivated 
country, from three to five miles wide, skirted on both 
sides by a ragged and stinted wood, and covered with 
fern, grass, and low shrubs, principally a species of the 
whortleberry. The fruit of this, of the size of a small 
gooseberry, and of a bright yellow color, tinged on one 
side with red, was very abundant, and though of insipid 
taste, refreshing from its juice. There are no houses 
near the path, but the thatch of a cottage was occasion- 
ally observed peeping from the edge of the wood ; and 
here and there the white smoke of a kindling fire curled 
above the thick foliage of the trees. Far on the right 
and west, Mounaloa and Mounakea were distinctly 
visible ; and at an equal distance, on the left, and east, 
the ocean, with its horizon — from the height at which 
we viewed it, mingling with the sky. 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 6ft 

We dined thirteen miles from the bay, under a large 
candle tree, on a bed of brake, collected and spread by 
a party of people who had been waiting by the way- 
side to see the '- alii niti mai Perekania mai^^^ the great 
chief from Britain. About two miles farther we came 
to the houses erected for our lodgings the first night. 
Thinking it, however, too early to lie for the day, after 
witnessing a dance performed by a company from the 
neighboring settlements, we hastened on, intending to 
sleep at the next houses, ten miles distant; but night 
overtaking us before we reached them, just as darkness 
set in we turned aside a few rods to the ruins of two 
huts, the sticks only of which remaining. The natives, 
however, soon covered them with fern, the leaves of the 
Kukui, &c., a quantity of which they also spread upon 
the ground, before spreading the mats which were to be 
our beds. 

Our arrival and encampment produced quite a pic- 
turesque and lively scene ; for the islanders, who are 
not fond of such forced marches as we had made during 
the day, were more anxious for repose than ourselves, 
and proceeded with great alacrity to make preparations 
for the night. 

The darkness, as it gathered round us, rendered more 
gloomy by a heavily clouded sky, made the novelty of 
our situation still more striking. 

Behind the huts, in the distance, an uplifted torch of 
the blazing kukuinut here and there indistinctly revealed 
the figures and costume of many, spreading their couch- 
es under the bushes in the open air ; the more curious 
of our dusky companions^ both male and female, mean- 
er 



66 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

while pressing in numbers round our circle, as if anx- 
ious to ^^ catch the Tnanners living as they i^ose,^^ 

A large fire of brush wood, at sojaie distance in front, 
exhibited the objects of the foreground in still stronger 
lights and shadows. Groups of both sexes, and all 
ages, were seated or standing round the fire, wrapped 
up from the chillness of the evening air, in their large 
kiheis or mantles, of white, black, green, yellow, and 
red. 

Some smoking, some throwing in, and others snatch- 
ing from the embers, a fish or potato, or other article of 
food; some giving a loud halloo, in answer to the call 
of a straggler just arriving; others wholly taken up 
with the proceedings of the sailors cooking our suppers, 
and all chattering with the volubility of so many mag- 
pies. 

By daylight the next morning we were on the road 
again. 

At nine o'clock we passed the last houses put up for 
our accommodation on the way; and at eleven o'clock 
had arrived within three miles of the object of our curi- 
osity. 

For the last hour the scenery had become more inter- 
esting ; our path was skirted, occasionally, with groves 
and clusters of trees, and fringed with a greater variety 
of vegetation. Here also the smoke from the volcano 
was first discovered, settling in light fleecy clouds to 
the southwest. 

Our resting place at this time was a delightful spot, 
commanding a full view of the wide extent of country 
over which we had traveled, and beyond and around it, 
the ocean, which, from the vast and almost undis- 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 67 

tinguished extent of its horizon, seemed literally an 
*^ illimitable sea." 

The smooth greer'='ward, under the shade of a majes- 
tic acacia, almost encircled by thickets of a younger 
growth, afforded a refreshing couch on which to take our 
luncheon. Here we saw the first bed of strawberry 
vines, but without finding any fruit. We tarried but a 
few moments, and then hurried on to the grand object 
before us. 

The nearer we approached, the more heavy the col- 
umns of smoke appeared, and roused to intenseness our 
curiosity to behold their origin. Under the influence of 
this excitement, we hastened forward with rapid steps, 
regardless of the heat of a noonday sun, and the fa- 
tigue of a walk of thirty-six miles, already accom- 
plished. 

A few minutes before twelve o'clock, we came sud- 
denly on the brink of a precipice, one hundred and fifty 
or two hundred feet high, covered with shrubbery and 
trees. Descending this by a path almost perpendicular, 
we crossed a plain half a mile in width, enclosed, ex- 
cept in the direction we were going, by the cliff" behind 
us, and found ourselves a second time on the top of a 
precipice four hundred feet high, also covered with 
bushes and trees. This, like the former, swept off" to 
the right and left, enclosing in a semi-circular form, a 
level space about a quarter of a mile broad ; immedi- 
ately beyond which lay the tremendous abyss of our 
search, emitting volumes of vapor and smoke; and 
laboring and groaning as if in inexpressible agony from 
the raging of the conflicting elements within its bosom. 
We stood but a moment to take this first distant glance. 



68 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

Then hastily descended the almost perpendicular height, 
and crossed the plain to the very brink of the crater. 

There are scenes, to which description, and even 
painting can do no justice, and in conveying any adequate 
impression of which they must ever fail. Of such, an 
elegant traveler rightly says, ^'the height, the depth, 
the length, the breadth, the combined aspect, may all 
be correctly given, but the mind of the reader will re- 
main untouched by the emotions of admiration and sub- 
limity which the eye-witness experiences." That which 
here burst on our sight was emphatically of this kind, 
and to behold it without singular and deep emotion, 
would demand a familiarity with the more terrible 
phenomena of nature which few have the opportunity 
of acquiring. Standing at an elevation of one thousand 
five hundred feet, we looked into a black and horrid 
gulf, not less than eight miles in circumference, so di- 
rectly beneath us that, in appearance, we might by a 
single leap have plunged into its lowest depth. The 
hideous immensity itself, independent of the many 
frightful images which it embraced, almost caused an 
involuntary closing of the eyes against it. But when 
to the sight is added the appalling effect of the various 
unnatural and fearful noises, the muttering and sighing, 
the groaning and blowing, the every agonized struggling 
of the mighty action within — as a whole it is too hor- 
rible ! And for the first moment I felt like one of my 
friends, who on reaching the brink, recoiled and covered 
his face, exclaiming, ''•call it weakness^ or what you 
please^ but I cannot look againP 

It was sufficient employment for the afternoon sim- 
ply to sit and gaze on the scene, and though some of 



OP WILLIAM TOREEY. 69 

our party strolled about, and one or two descended a 
short distance into the crater, the most of our number 
deferred all investigation until the next morning. 

From what I have already said, you will perceive 
that this volcano differs in one respect from most others 
of which we have accounts. The crater instead of be- 
ing the truncated top of a mountain, distinguishable in 
every direction at a distance, is an immense chasm in 
an upland country, near the base of the mountain Mon- 
naloa — approached not by ascending a cone, but by 
descending two vast terraces ; and not visible from any 
point at a greater distance than half a mile, a circum- 
stance, which, no doubt, from the suddenness of the 
arrival, adds much to the effect of a first look from the 
brink. It is probable that it was originally a cone, but 
assumed its present aspect, it may be centuries ago, 
from the falling in of the whole summit. Of this, the 
precipices we descended, which entirely encircle the 
crater in circumferences, of fifteen and twenty miles, 
give strong evidence. They have unquestionably been 
formed by the sinking of the mountain, whose founda- 
tions had been undermined by the devouring flames 
beneath. In the same manner one half of the present 
depth of the crater has at no very remote period been 
formed. About midway from the top a ledge of lava. 
in some places only a few feet, but in others many rods 
wide, extends entirely round, at least as far as an ex- 
amination has been made ; forming a kind of gallery — 
to which you can descend, in two or three places, and 
walk, as far as the smoke, settling at the south end, 
will permit. This offset bears incontestible marks of 
having once been the level of the fiery flood, now boil- 



70 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

ing in the bottom of the crater. A subduction of lava, 
by some subterraneous channel, has since taken place, 
and sunk the abyss many hundred feet to its present 
depth. The gulf below contains probably not less than 
sixty — fifty-six have been counted — smaller conical cra- 
ters, many of which are in constant action. The tops 
and sides of two or three of these are covered with 
sulphur, of mingled shades of yellow and green, with 
this exception, the ledge and every thing below it are 
of a dismal black. The upper cliffs, on the northern 
and western sides, are perfectly perpendicular, and of a 
red color, everywhere exhibiting the scarred marks of 
former powerful ignition. Those on the eastern side are 
less precipitous, and consist of entire banks of sulphur, 
of a delicate and beautiful yellow. The south end is 
wholly obscured by smoke, which fills that part of the 
crater, and spreads widely over the surrounding hori- 
zon. As the darkness of night gathered round us, new 
and powerful effect was given to the scene. Fire after 
fire, which the glare of mid-day had entirely concealed, 
began to glimmer on the eye with the first shades of 
evening, and as the darkness increased, appeared in such 
rapid succession, as forcibly to remind me of the hasty 
lighting of the lamps of a city on the sudden approach 
of a gloomy night. Two or three of the small craters 
nearest to us were in full action, every moment casting 
out stones and ashes, and lava, with heavy detonations, 
while the irritated flames accompanying them, glared 
widely over the surrounding obscurity, against the sides 
of the ledge and upper cliffs, richly illuminating the 
volumes of smoke at the south end, and occasionally 
casting a bright reflection on the bosom of a passing 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 71 

cloud. The great seat of actioiij however, seemed to be 
at the southern and western end, where an exhibition 
of ever-varying fire-works was presented, surpassing in 
beauty and subhmity all that the ingenuity of art ever 
devised. Rivers of fire were seen rolling in splendid 
corruscation among the laboring craters, and on one 
side a whole lake, whose surface constantly flashed 
and sparkled with the agitation of contending cur- 
rents. 

Expressions of admiration and astonishment burst 
momentarily from our lips, and though greatly fatigued 
it was near midnight before we gave ourselves rest, 
often interrupted during the night, to gaze on the sight 
with renewed wonder and surprise. 

As I laid myself down on my mat — fancying that the 
very ground which was my pillow shook beneath my 
head — the silent musings of my mind were: — ''Great 
and marvelous are thy works, Lord, God Almighty ! 
greatly art thou to be feared, thou King of saints!" 

The next morning we prepared for a descent into the 
crater. 

One of the few places where this is practicable was 
within a rod of the hut where we lodged. For the first 
four hundred feet the path was steep, and from the 
looseness of the stones and rocks on both sides, required 
caution in every movement. A slight touch was sufli- 
cient to detach these and send them bounding down- 
wards hundreds of feet to the imminent danger of any 
one near them. The remaining distance of about the 
same number of feet, was gradual and safe, the path 
having turned into the bed of an old channel of lava, 
which ran off in an inclined plain, until it met the ledge 



72 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

before described more than a quarter of a mile west of 
the place where we began the descent. Previous to our 
descent we had provided ourselves with long canes and 
poleSj by which we might test the soundness of any spot 
before stepping on it, and immediately on reaching the 
ledge, we found the wisdom of the precaution. This 
oifset is formed wholly of scoria and lava, mostly 
burned to a cinder and everywhere intersected by deep 
crevices and chasms, from many of which light smoke 
and vapor were emitted, and from others a scalding 
steam. 

The general surface is a black, glossy incrustation, 
retaining perfectly the innumerably diversified tortuous 
configurations of the lava, as it originally cooled, and 
so brittle as to crack and break under us like ice, while 
the hollow reverberations of our footsteps beneath, suf- 
ficiently assured us of the unsubstantial character of 
the whole mass. 

In some places by thrusting our stick down with 
force, large pieces would break through, disclosing deep 
fissures, and holes apparently without bottom. These, 
however, were generally too small to appear dangerous. 
The width of this ledge is constantly diminishing in a 
greater or less degree, by the falling of large masses 
from its edges into the crater; and it is not improbable 
that in some future convulsion, the whole structure may 
yet be plunged into the abyss below. 

Leaving the sulphur banks on the western side be- 
hind us, we directed our course along the northern part 
to the western cliff. As we advanced these became 
more and more perpendicular, until they presented noth- 
ing but the bare and upright face of an immense wall, 



OF WILLIAM TOEREY. 73 



from eight to ten hundred feet high, on whose surface 
huge stones and rocks hung apparently so loosely as to 
threaten falling at the agitation of a breath. In many 
places a white curling vapor issued from the sides and 
summit of the precipice, and in two or three streams of 
clay-colored lava, like some waterfall extending almost 
from the top to the bottom, had cooled evidently at a 
very recent period. At almost every step, something 
new attracted our attention, and by stopping sometimes 
to look up, not without a feeling of apprehension, at the 
enormous masses above our heads, at others to gain by 
a cautious approach to the brink of the gulf, a nearer 
glance at the equally frightful depth below; at one time 
turning aside to ascertain the heat of a column of steam 
and at another to secure some unique or beautiful spec- 
imen, we occupied more than two hours in proceeding 
the same number of miles. 

At that distance from our entrance on the ledge we 
came to a spot on the western side, where it widened 
many hundred feet and terminated next the crater, 
not as in most other places, perpendicularly, but in an 
immense heap of broken slabs and blocks of lava, loosely 
piled together, as they had fallen in some convulsion of 
the mountain, and jutting off to the bottom in a fright- 
ful mass of ruin. Here we had been informed the de- 
scent into the depths of the crater could be most easily 
made, but being without a guide we were entnely at a 
loss what course to take, until we unexpectedly descried 
the gentlemen who had preceded us re-ascending. They 
dissuaded us most strenuously from proceeding further, 
but their lively representations of the difficulty and 

dangers of the way only strengthened our resolution to 
7 



74 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

go dowiij and knowing that the crater had been crossed 
at this end, we hastened on, notwithstanding the refusal 
of the guide to return with us. 

The descent was as perilous as it had been represent- 
ed, but by proceeding with great caution, testing well 
the safety of every step before committing our weight 
to it, and often stopping to select the course which 
seemed least hazardous, in the space of about twenty 
minutes, by a zig-zag way, we reached the bottom 
without any accident of greater amount than a few 
scratches on the hands from the sharpness and rough- 
ness of the lava, by which we had occasionally been 
obliged to support ourselves. When we were about half 
way down we were encouraged to persevere in our un- 
dertaking, by meeting a native who had descended on 
the opposite side and passed over. It was only however 
from the renewed assurance it gave of the practicability 
of the attempt, for besides b^ng greatly fatigued, he 
was much cut and bruised from a fall ; said the bottom 
was '-ino-ino loaka wahi O debelo!'*' — ''excessively 
bad the place of the devil ! " — and could be prevailed 
on to return with us only by the promise of a large re- 
ward. 

It is difficult to say whether sensations of admiration 
or of terror predominated, on reaching the bottom of 
this tremendous spot. As I looked up at the gigantic 
wall, which on every side rose to the very clouds, I felt 
oppressed to a most unpleasant degree, by a sense of 
confinement. 

Either from the influence of imagination, or from the 
actual effect of the immense power of a noon-day sun 
beating directly on us, in addition to the heated and 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 75 

sulphureous atmosphere of the volcano itself, I for some 
moments experienced an agitation of spirits, and diffi- 
culty of respiration, that made me cast a look of wishful 
anxiety tov/ards our little hut, which, at an elevation 
of near fifteen hundred feet seemed only like a bird's 
nest on the opposite cliff. These emotions, however, 
soon passed off, and we began with great spirit and ac- 
tivity, the enterprise before us. I can compare the gen- 
eral aspect of the bottom of the crater, to nothing that 
will give a livelier image of it to the mind than the ap- 
pearance of a lake would present, if the ice with which 
it was covered in the v/inter was suddenly broken up 
by a heavy storm, and as suddenly frozen again, while 
large slabs and blocks were still toppling and dashing 
and heaping against each other with the motion of the 
waves. Just so rough and distorted was the blaxk mass 
under our feet, only a hundred fold more terrific, inde- 
pendently of the innumerable cracks, fissures, deep 
chasms and holes, from which sulphureous vapor, steam 
and smoke were exhaled, with a degree of heat that 
testified to the near vicinity of fire. 

We had not proceeded far, before our path was inter- 
sected by a chasm at least thirty feet wide, and of 
greater depth than we could ascertain, at the nearest 
distance we dare approach. The only alternative was 
to return or follow its course until it terminated or be- 
came narrow enough to be crossed. We chose the lat- 
ter, but soon met an equally formidable obstacle, in a 
current of smoke, so highly impregnated with a suf- 
focating gas as not to allow of respiration. What a 
situation for a group of half a dozen men, totally un- 
aware of the extent of peril to which they might be 



76 LIFE AND ADVEiNTURES 

exposed ! The lava on which we stood was in many 
places so hot, that we could not hold for a moment in 
our hands the pieces which we knocked off for spec- 
imens. 

On one side lay a gulf of unfathomable depth, on 
the other an inaccessible pile of ruins, and immediately 
in front an oppressive and deadly vapor. While hesi- 
tating what to do, we perceived the smoke to be swept 
occasionally, by an eddy of the air, in a direction oppo- 
site to that in which it most of the time settled. And 
watching an opportunity, when our way was thus made 
clear, we held our breath and ran as rapidly as the dan- 
gerous character of the path would permit, until we 
had gained a place beyond its ordinary course. We 
here unexpectedly found ourselves also delivered from 
the other impediment to our progress ; for the chasm 
abruptly ran off in a direction far from that we wished 
to pursue. Our escape from the vapor however was 
that which we considered the most important ; and so 
great was our impression of the danger to which we 
had been exposed from it, that when we saw our way 
to the opposite side open, without any special obstacle 
before us, we felt disposed formally to return thanks to 
Almighty God for our deliverance. But before this was 
proposed most of our number had gone forward so far 
as to be out of call ; and for the time the external adora- 
tion of the Creator, from the midst of one of the most 
horrible of his works, was reluctantly waived. 

At an inconsiderable distance from us was one of the 
largest of the conical craters, whose laborious action 
had so greatly impressed our minds during the night ; 
and we hastened to a nearer examination of it; so pro- 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 77 

digious an engine I never expect again to behold. On 
reaching its base, we judged it to be one hundred and 
fifty feet high, a huge irregularly shapen, inverted fun- 
nel of lava covered with clefts, orifices, and tunnels, 
from which bodies of steam escaped with deafening 
explosion, while pale flames, ashes, stones, and lava, 
were propelled with equal force and noise from its rag- 
ged and yawning mouth. The whole formed so singu- 
larly terrific an object, that in order to secure a hasty 
sketch of it, I permitted the other gentlemen to go a few 
yards nearer than I did, while I occupied myself with 
my pencil. One of the company with his servant as- 
cended the cone several feet, but found the heat too 
great to remain longer than to detach Vv^th their sticks, 
a piece or two of recent lava, burning hot. So highly 
was our admiration excited by the scene, that we forgot 
the danger to which we might be exposed should any 
change take place in the currents of destructive gas — 
which exists to a greater or less degree in every part of 
the crater — until one of the gentlemen, after two or three 
intimations of the propriety of an immediate departure, 
warned us in a most decided tone, not only as a friend, 
but as a professional gentleman, of the peril of our sit- 
uation, assuring us, that three inspirations of the air by 
which we might be surrounded, would prove fatal to 
every one of us. We felt the truth of the assertion, and 
notwithstanding the desire we had of visiting a similar 
cone covered with a beautiful incrustation of sulphur, 
at the distance from us, of a few hundred yards only, 
we hastily took the speediest course from so dangerous 
a spot. The ascent to the ledge was not less difiicult 
and frightful than the descent had been, and for the last 



78 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

few yards was almost perpendicular. But we all suc- 
ceeded in safely gaining its top, not far from the path 
by which we had in the morning descended the upper 
cliff. 

We reached the hut about two o'clock, nearly ex- 
hausted from fatigue, thirst and hunger, and had imme- 
diate reason to congratulate ourselves, on a most narrow 
escape from suffering and extreme danger, if not from 
death. For, on turning round, we perceived the whole 
chasm to be filling with thick sulphureous smoke; and 
within half an hour, it was so completely choked with 
it, that not an object below us was visible. Even where 
we were, in the unconfined region above, the air became 
so oppressive as to make us think seriously of a precip- 
itate retreat. This continued to be the case for the 
greater part of the afternoon. A dead calm took place, 
both within and without the crater, and from the dimi- 
nution of noise, and the various signs of action, the 
volcano itself seemed to be resting from its labors. 

One of the company, during a morning ramble, had 
gathered two large buckets of fine strawberries, which 
made a delightful dessert at our dinner. The moun- 
tains of Hawaii are the only parts of the island on 
which this delicious fruit is found. A large red rasp- 
berry is also abundant on them; but even when fully 
ripe, it has a rough acid taste similar to that of an un- 
ripe blackberry. The flavor of the strawberry, how- 
ever, is as fine as that of the same fruit in America. 

Towards evening the smoke again rolled off to the 
south, before afresh breeze, and every thing assumed its 
ordinary aspect. At this time we succeeded in getting 
sufficient data to calculate the height of the upper cliff; 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 79 

and made it nine hundred feet. If this be correct, it is 
judged that the height of the ledge cannot be less than 
six hundred feet ; making the whole depth of the crater 
that which I have stated in the preceding pages, fifteen 
hundred feet. On similar grounds, the circumference 
of the crater at its bottom has been estimated at a dis- 
tance of from five to seven miles ; and at its top from 
eight to ten miles. 

Greatly to our regret we found it would be necessary 
to set off on our return early the next morning ; all the 
provisions of the natives being entirely expended. We 
could have passed a week here with undiminished 
interest, and wished to remain at least one day longer 
to visit the sulphur banks, which abound with beautiful 
chrystalizations, and to make some researches on the 
summit. We would have been glad also to have added 
to the variety of specimens already collected, especially 
of the volcanic sponge, and capillary volcanic glass, not 
found on the side of the crater where we encamped ; 
but it was impossible; and we made preparations for 
an early departure. Just as these were completed, in 
the edge of the evening, another party from the same 
ship, consisting of about a dozen midshipmen arrived, 
with whom we shared our lodgings for the night. 

The splendid illuminations of the preceding evening 
were again lighted up with the closing of the day ; and 
after enjoying their beauty for two or three hours with 
renewed delight, we early sought a repose which the 
fatigue of the morning had rendered most desirable. 
The chattering of the islanders around our cabins, and 
the occasional sound of voices in protracted conversa- 
tion among our own number, had however, scarcely 



80 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

ceased long enough to admit of sound sleep, when the 
volcano again began roaring, and laboring with re- 
doubled activity. The confusion of noises was pro- 
digiously great. In addition to all we had before heard, 
there was an angry muttering from the very bowels of 
the abyss, accompanied at intervals by what appeared 
the desperate effort of some gigantic power struggling 
for deliverance. These sounds were not fixed or con- 
fined to one place, but rolled from one end of the crater 
to the other; sometimes seeming to be immediately 
under us — when a terrible tremor of the ground on 
which we lay, took place — and then again rushing to 
the farthest end with incalculable velocity. The whole 
air was filled with tumult; and those most soundly 
asleep were quickly roused by it to thorough wakeful- 
ness. Lord Byron springing up in his cot exclaiming, 
^*We shall certainly have an eruption; such power 
must burst through every thing ! " He had barely ceased 
speaking, when a dense column of heavy black smoke 
was seen rising from the crater, directly in front of us, 
the subterranean struggle ceased, and immediately after 
flames burst from a large cone, near which we had 
been in the morning, and which then appeared to have 
been long inactive. Red hot stones, cinders, and ashes, 
were also propelled to a great height with immense 
violence ; and shortly after the molten lava came boiling 
up, and flowed down the sides of the cone, and over the 
surrounding scoria, in two beautiful curved streams, 
glittering with indescribable brilliance. 

At the same time a whole lake of fire opened in a 
more distant part. This could not have been less than 
two miles in circumference, and its action was more 



r 



OF WILLIAM TORRE Y. 81 

horribly sublime than any thing I ever imagined to 
exist, even in the ideal visions of unearthly things. Its 
surface had all the agitation of an ocean ; billow after 
billow tossed its monstrous bosom in the air, and occa- 
sionally those from different directions burst with such 
violence, as in the concussion to dash the fiery spray, 
seemingly, forty and fifty feet high. It was at once the 
most splendidly beautiful, and dreadfully fearful of 
spectacles, and irresistibly turned the thoughts to that 
lake of fire, from whence we are told, the smoke of tor- 
ment shall ascend for ever and ever. 

No work of Him who laid the foundations of the 
earth, and who by his almighty power still supports 
them, ever brought to my mind the more awful revela- 
tions of his Word with such overwhelming impression. 
Truly, ^^ With God is terrible Majesty ! ^^ Let all the 
nations say unto God, ^' How terrible art thou in thy 
works.^^ 

Under the name of Pele, this volcano was one of the 
most distinguished, and most feared of the former gods 
of Hawaii. Its terrific features, are well suited to the 
character and abode of an unpropitious demon ; and few 
works in nature, would be more likely to impose 
thoughts of terror on the ignorant and superstitious, and 
from their destructive ravages lead to sacrifices of pro- 
pitiation and peace. It is now rapidly losing its power 
over the minds of the people. Not one of the large 
number of our company, seemed to be at all apprehen- 
sive of it as a supernatural being. 

After an almost sleepless night, we early turned our 
faces homeward, not without many a 'lingering look ' 
behind," even at the very entrance of our path. It was 



82 



LIFE AND ADVENTURES 



precisely six o'clock when the last of our party left the 
brink. 

Never was there a more delightful morning. The 
atmosphere was perfectly clear, and the air, with the 
thermometer at 56 degrees Fahrenheit, fine and bracing. 
A splendid assemblage of strong and beautifully con- 
trasted colors glowed around us. The bed of the crater 
still covered with the broad shadow of the eastern banks 
was of jetty blackness. The reflection of the early sun, 
added a deeper redness to the western cliff's; those 
opposite were of a bright yellow, while the body of 
smoke rising between them, hung in a white drapery of 
pearly whiteness, against the deep azure of the southern 
sky. Mounaloa and Mounakea, in full view in the 
west, were richly clothed in purple ; and the long line 
of intervening forest, the level over which we were 
passing, and the precipice by which it is encircled, 
thickly covered with trees and shrubbery, exhibited an 
equally bright and lively green. 




OF WILLIAM TORREY, " 83 



CHAPTER VI. 

Sail for the " Off shore ground." Cruise for Whale. Come to 
anchor at Payta. Desert the ship. Sufferings in the desert. 
Reach the human habitations. Are entertained by an old Spaniard, 
who takes us to St. Augustine, and delivers us up to the Gov- 
ernor. Thrown into a Calaboose. Released by the Captain. 
Sketch of Peru. Proceed to the Galapagos. Scenes at that group. 
Rock of Dundas. Sail to the Society Islands. Run upon the 
Coral Reef. Loose an anchor. Employ natives to dive for it. 
Proceed to the Coast of Japan. Description of the Dolphin and 
Flying Fish. A violent storm. Sail for the Sandwich Islands. 
Touch at Pitcairns. Desert the ship. Ship on board the brig 
Doll. Arrive at Magdalena. Proceed to Wytohoo. Phospho- 
retic scene. A heavy storm. Seven men lost. Flee to the 
boats. The ship runs upon the rocks. 

^w^^A/^ ^ o^^ return from the volcano, we took on 
wood, water, and other necessaries for the 




voyage, and stood for the " Off shore 
ground," or the Coast of Peru, where we 
cruised two months with the poorest luck. Sick at 
heart, we put into Payta, one of the ports of Peru. 

The poor success which had attended us, caused the 
greatest dissatisfaction among the crew, yet none 
attributed it to the officers of the ship. Myself and two 
others concluded to try our luck in another way; 
together we formed a plan to leave the ship, secrete 
ourselves in the woods until her departure, we would 
then return to the shore, and see what chance would 
favor us with. 



84 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

When we were allowed liberty on shore again, we 
took as much salt beef, bread, and water, as we could 
carry without detection, and started for the woods, 
which lay but a short distance from the shore; they 
were about two miles wide; beyond them lay an 
immense sand plain or desert, without bush or shrub of 
any kind. The light drifting sand soon obliterated all 
traces of life. On we wandered, hoping soon to reach 
the opposite side, but hope soon failed; we had lost 
sight of the woods ; to retrace our steps was now utterly 
impossible — our footprints were no longer visible — we 
now realized the true character of our situation — 
parched with thirst — worn with fatigue — amidst an 
ocean of sand, where neither shrub, or cooling stream 
appeared to cheer the lonely wanderer. We sat our- 
selves sat down upon the burning sand, beneath a torrid 
sun, and partook of such as we had. The quantity of 
water being small, we were obliged to use it sparingly. 
The saltness of the meat greatly increased our thirst ; 
we at length fell in with our own footprints, nearly 
filled with sand. We sat down in despair; the sun 
having now passed the meridian, served as a compass, 
which we followed, until it sank beneath the horizon ; 
night came, and found us still hungry and shelterless. 
Having eaten our last morsel, and drank our last drop 
of water, we lay down upon the sand, fatigued almost 
beyond endurance; so excessive was our thirst, that we 
slept but very little. We spread our flannel shirts upon 
the sand, and when they were saturated with dew, (the 
dews of the country are very heavy, and supply the 
deficiency of rains, which seldom appear) we would 
wring them, and suck the moisture ; this being often 



OF WILLIAIM TOEREY. SIT 

repeated, alleviated our thirst somewhat. No mind can 
form any description, or form to itself any definite idea 
of our situation. Most sincerely we repented the course 
we had taken, and anxiously sought to retrace our 
steps. With joy we welcomed the approach of morning, 
hoping that ere another day should pass, we should be 
able to find some means of rescue from our horrible 
situation. We traveled until mid-day, almost crazed 
with the heat of the sun upon the head ; and our 
tongues were so swollen as to render our mouths hardly 
able to contain them. We sat down half inclined to 
give up, and leave our bones to whiten the sands. 
Driven to the last extremity, we resorted to the use of 
our own urine, for the alleviation of our thirst ; this was 
repeated frequently. Summoning new courage, we 
started again : after wandering a long time, we fell in 
with the tracks of a horse or mule. So excessive was 
our joy at this discovery, that we almost forgot our 
fatigue, and bounded forward with delight. Our joy 
however, was soon at an end, for the tracks were oblit- 
erated, and we were as bad off as before, and worse 
even ; for having seen the light, the darkness was still 
deeper. We found, and lost it alternately for some 
time. Night again spread her sable mantle around our 
wretchedness. With the closest scrutiny we followed 
the tracks: about midnight, (as near as we could 
judge), one of my companions, lustily as his swollen 
tongue and debilitated condition would allow, cried 
^•land ahead,"' much to our joy. On we passed, and 
found it to be low shrubbery, about three feet high. 
Again we lost the tracks, but this we did not mind, so 

rejoiced were we to find any living thing. 
8 



% 
86 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

Falling in with a small path, we followed it with the 
greatest avidity. As we went on, the path increased in 
size. Soon we heard the loud barking of a dog ; never 
before was such a welcome so well received. 

This induced us to quicken our pace, believing we 
were near habitations of some kind, little caring what. 
But a short time elapsed before we came upon a house, 
evidently the residence of a Spaniard. A few loud 
knocks at the door sufficed to arouse the inmates, who 
cried lustily in Spanish, ''Who is there? what do you 
want?" Fortunately for us, one of our number under- 
stood the language sufficiently well to make our wants 
known. With the true generosity of the Spaniard his 
house was immediately opened, and we were welcome 
to such as -he had, viz: dried beef and milk: this, to 
the half famished wanderer, was a repast of the choicest 
kind. Fatigued and enfeebled as we were, great was 
the danger of our eating too much: this, reason strongly 
pointed out to us, but appetite got the ascendency, and 
before we were aware of it we were in as great danger 
from excess as before from deprivation and fatigue. 
Again our host befriended us, rendering us all needed 
assistance. His repeated kindnesses induced us to 
place unlimited confidence in him; we told him of our 
deserting the ship, and of our future plans. He cun- 
ningly proposed, when we were sufficiently recovered, 
to take a ride to St. Augustine, which lay seventeen 
miles from Payta. We mounted the asses and pro- 
ceeded on the way. When we arrived there we were 
given up to the governor as deserters, and confined. 
The Spaniard received a reward for delivering us up to 
the proper authorities. This we could not approve, 



OF WILLIAM TORREY, 87 

though it was acting in conformity with the laws of his 
country. The next morning we were fitted out for 
Payta, guarded by six Spanish soldiers, all on asses. 
Our route lay along the coast, and was indeed very 
pleasant. Forgetting almost entirely our extreme suf- 
fering on the plain, we hardly realized that we were 
prisoners strongly guarded, so merrily we passed along. 
The soldiers were themselves very joyful. 

On our arrival at Payta, we were thrown into prison 
for safe keeping. Our captain was then notified of our 
apprehension, and came to see us, and asked us if we 
were wilUng to go to our duty like faithful men. That 
we assured him we would most certainly do. Mani- 
festing much indiff'erence he turned away, saying he 
would see what the charges were, and think about re- 
leasing us. The prison into which we were thrown 
was of the most filthy kind ; my mind recoils with hor- 
ror at the thought of it. We passed the night without 
closing our eyes to sleep. Rats of enormous size were 
jumping around us all night, and anxiously we waited 
for morning. The next morning breakfast was served, 
consisting of jerk beef, brown bread, and cold water. 
So loathsome was the place that we would almost have 
rather starved than eaten there. Giving our allowance 
to our fellow-prisoners, we waited in anxious expecta- 
tion for the re-appearance of the captain, expecting, or 
at least hoping he would bring a release. At length he 
came, having paid twenty-five dollars for us. We 
went on board again perfectly contented, having paid, 
as we thought, dearly as deserters. 

I propose here giving a hasty geographical and his- 
torical sketch of Peru, but owing to the insuflicient time 



88 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

allotted common sailors for getting any definite idea of 
the countries which they may visit, I shall be obliged 
to couple the statements of others with my own obser- 
vation. The territory comprising it is 230,000 square 
miles in area. The Andes range of mountains extend 
through this country, the highest point of which is 
22,000 feet above the valley of Chuquibamba. The 
celebrated volcano known as Omati has an elevation 
exceeding 18,000 feet. In the eastern Andes remains 
of mining excavations are found at an elevation of 
16,600 ft. They were wrought by the Peruvians under 
the Incas, long before the arrival of the Spaniards. The 
entry to the gallery of San Miguel and of Pomare, is 
close to the region of eternal snow. Intersecting the 
country in different directions are other ranges of moun- 
tains, which do not properly belong to the Andes ; these 
are of various extent and height. Exclusive of Peru 
proper, which is merely a narrow strip, and also of the 
various chains of mountains which contain between 
them broad and extensive valleys, watered by gigantic 
streams, this country contains immense plains, or 
pampas, as they are called by the Spanish, extending 
from Montana Real as far east as the Portuguese fron- 
tier 600 miles, in direct distance, and in some places in 
equal breadth. The Maranon rolls its mighty waters 
through the centre of this continental steppe; and these 
plains are so abundantly watered, that they are every- 
where fertile, and clothed with impenetrable forests. 
The most noted of these plains contains more than 
60,000 square miles; and is capable of supporting 
5,000,000 inhabitants. It is called the '' Steppe of the 
Holy Sacrament," 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 89 

The mighty river Amazon, or Maranon, rises in this 
countrVj among the Andes, in a number of head 
streams. Those streams which empty into the Pacific, 
flowing from the western side of the Andes, are of but 
little importance, being quite small in size. The cli- 
mate of the country is variable ; that of the Coast or 
Low Peru, is dry and temperate ; that of the Sierras 
mild, that of the Andes piercingly cold; and that of the 
Pampas warm, and exceedingly humid. The climate 
of the Sierras is perhaps the most healthy in the world, 
ifw^ecan judge from the long life of its inhabitants. 
Persons are often found living at the age of 120, and 
sometimes reach the extreme age of 150 years. A 
Spaniard died in the year 1765, in the province of 
Caxamarea, aged 144 years, 7 months, and 5 days, 
leaving 800 lineal descendants. But such extreme age 
is by no means common to the whole country. The 
climate of the Pampas is far from being healthy. The 
warmth and extreme humidity render them almost 
uninhabitable, and the few Indian tribes on the rivers 
rarely see a man of the age of fifty. In the uplands of 
this country, the soil is somewhat fertile, but owing to 
the almost insuperable barriers to communication with 
the coast, agriculture is generally speaking in a wretch- 
ed state. 

Abundance of cotton in a wild state is found in the 
Montana Real, and on the banks of the Maranon. Flax 
is common, but the Indians leave the stems to perish, 
and make a kind of beer of the seeds. In some districts 
a species of coffee, and cochineal abound, but the quality 
is not the best. The pimento of Peru is excessively 

strong, and there is cinnamon stronger than that of 

8^ 



90 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

Ceylon, though not so vakiable for use. A great variety 
of aromatic balsams, oils, and gums, distilled from the 
trees are produced here. In the description of Peru, 
Estalla enumerates the cedar, the olive, the wild 
orange, the incorruptible algoroh^ the palm, the wil- 
low, and many other trees. On the coast, and western 
slopes of the Andes, are produced the cabbage-palm, the 
cocoa-nut, the chocolate-nut, the cotton-shrub, the pine- 
apple, tumeric, plantain, and sugar-cane. No less than 
twenty-four species of pepper are raised in Peru. To- 
bacco and jalap grow in abundance at the foot of the 
Andes. The chief shrubs on the uplands of the Andes 
are the different species of cinchonas^ or the salutary 
Peruvian bark. The mountains abound in metalic 
wealth. They are interspersed with veins of gold and 
of silver ore, in which pieces of pure silver, solid copper, 
and lead ore occur, frequently intermixed with white 
silver ore, and virgin silver, in threads. In many parts 
are rich veins of gold ore in quartz, and gold is also 
obtained by washing the mud found in the beds of the 
rivers. Many of the silver mines are neglected, owing 
to their being inundated by water, which has continued 
to gain on them so as to completely choke them. 

The principal silver mines were discovered in 1630, 
by an Indian shepherd, and though very badly 
wrought, they annually furnish near $2,500,000. These 
mines are usually called Pareo, and Cerro de Bombon. 
Humbolt calculates the produce of gold and silver at 
$6,000,000 annually. To this sum must be added the 
fraudulent exportation of silver, or what is denominated 
unregistered produce, on which no duty has been paid 
— this is estimated at S940,000, 



OF WILLUM TOR RET, 91 

Mercury is found is abundance in Peru, which is not 
the case in any other part of Spanish America. The 
other minerals are numerous. There are many obsta- 
cles, however, to successful mining in Peru. One great 
difficulty is the ignorance of the miners in the science of 
amalgamation. Another is the w^ant of capital; the 
operator being in most cases, in necessitous circum- 
stances, is obliged to borrow money on very exorbitant 
interest to enable him to commence his works, and to 
sell the produce of his mines at a great sacrifice, in 
order to carry them on. The labor of the mines is prin- 
cipally performed by the Indians, as they only are able 
to endure the fatigue and unwholesomeness of the 
employment. 

The commerce of Peru consists for the most part in 
the interchange of the precious metals for foreign pro- 
ducts, and manufactures ; of which considerable quan- 
tities are imported. There is a great want of good 
roads and bridges in Peru : and in the little intercourse 
between the seaports and the interior of the country, 
almost every article of trade is carried on the backs of 
mules and lamas. The ancient Peruvians were par- 
tially civilized; they constructed numerous and excel- 
lent roads, and also built stone palaces of enormous 
size; were skilled in making vessels of gold and silver, 
and cultivated the land with much care. 

At the time of the Spanish conquest, Peru comprised 
a territory of much greater dimensions, than the modern 
state of the same name. Its kings were a dynasty of 
princes, called Incas; they vv^ere supposed to be de- 
scended from the sun, and were held sacred and adored 
by the people. At the time Pizarro took possession of 



92 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

this country, the reigning Incas were put to death, and 
the dominion of the Spanish sovereign established. 
This occurred forty years after the discovery of America. 

Peru with the other American provinces of Spain was 
long governed by Viceroys, appointed by the kings of 
that country; but in the year 1821, the people estab- 
lished a government of their own, and with the assist- 
ance of the Colombians achieved their independence in 
1824, by the defeat of the last Spanish army at 
Ayachuco. 

In the year 1836, Peru was divided into the states of 
North Peru, and South Peru, which with Bolivia, were 
formed in the Peru-Bolivian confederation, under a 
chief magistrate styled the Supreme Protector. Three 
years afterwards, the army of the confederation was 
defeated by the Chilians, at Uraguay, and the Republic 
was dissolved. 

The Peruvians like the other people of South America, 
are composed of various races ; the most numerous 
being the Creoles of European descent, and the Indians. 
There are many tribes of the Indians ; they are much 
debased, and seldom cheerful. The Carapachas are 
exceedingly beautiful, and are said even to rival the 
Circassians; but their speech is very offensive, resem- 
bling the barking of dogs, owing to the guttural sounds. 
The women of some tribes are warlike. The Omagna 
tribe flatten the head, like some of the North American 
Indians. The Indians occupy the same place in society 
as in Mexico. They are idle, filthy, superstitious, and 
suspicious. Their dress and habitations are mean and 
poor; their capacities are very limited, and they have 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 93 

little variety of character. They are governed by native 
chiefs or caciques. 

The gentlemen of Peru imitate the English fashion 
of dress, and the ladies also, except in a peculiar walk- 
ing dress, composed of a close petticoat of satin, &c., 
with a short doak of silk drawn around the waist, and 
over the breast and head, half concealing the face. 
This dress is peculiar to Lima ; the petticoat is elastic, 
and sets close enough to reveal the form. The hood, or 
manto, is probably a Moorish remnant. The dwellings 
of the Indians are mere huts, and generally architecture 
is in a much lower state than in Mexico. The roofs are 
flat, and the walls are often of wattled cane, plastered. 
The languages are the Spanish, and those of the In- 
dians. The food does not essentially differ from that in 
the other South American States ; and tobacco is very 
extensively used. There is little veal or lamb, and 
many sweetmeats are consumed. A fermented liquor, 
called chicha is made of maize, and used to considerable 
extent. The diseases are not peculiar. To travel in 
Peru, is a severe hardship and privation; the mule is 
much used. This animal is invaluable from its cautious 
instinct in passing the defiles or sides of the mountains, 
where a misstep would cast them to a measureless dis- 
tance below. In many places where they cannot step, 
they protrude their feet, and slide downwards, directing 
their course with the utmost sagacity. It is not safe for 
the rider to assume any guidance over Ihem, v\rhen he 
is riding with one leg over a precipice, while the other 
rubs against the side of the mountain. 

The hospitality of the Peruvians has no limits, and 
like the others of European descent in South America, 



94 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

they are distinguished for their paternal and filial vir- 
tues. The Creole ladies are good mothers, and wives, 
and almost every family is a happy circle. Dancing, 
music, tertulias, bull-fights, and cock-fighting are the 
common amusements. The negro slaves receive kind 
treatment, and are instructed in the christian religion. 
It is common to see the white children thus instructing 
those of a household. Education is little attended to, 
but more than under the old government. The ruling 
religion is the Roman Catholic. 

There is no country whose history is more interesting 
than Peru. Leaving Peru we stood for the Gallapagos, 
which lie oflT the coast about 200 miles, and form a con- 
siderable group intersected by the equator; though 
many of them are small, and covered with forests. 
Turtle are found here in great abundance, and of enor- 
mous size. Dodging about for a few days, we took 
three small whale; this place is famous as the resort of 
the sperm whale in the time of its having its young, 
being perfectly adapted to it. Soon as the young is 
born, it mounts the fin of its mother, and rides safely 
away. After the oil was tried, and stowed, the ship 
cleaned, &c., we put two boats in readiness, and rowed 
away for the shore in quest of turtle, or turpin, (a spe- 
cies of turtle :) we landed on a beautiful, low, sandy 
beach, a short distance from the shore; high craggy 
cliffs arose destitute of almost all verdure save the 
prickly pear bush, which grows to about the size of the 
American quince bush; the fruit is of a bright red, is 
covered with sharp, piercing prickles like the gooseberry: 
much difficulty arises in removing them ; the fruit is 
most delicious; the trees and leaves are also covered 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 95 

with the same sharp hard prickles. We ascended the 
chff, and wandered around an hour or two, and found 
nothing, save a few guana, an animal of the lizard 
appearance, though much larger. Many times they are 
found four or five feet long. The flesh is very tender, 
sweet and delicate, and is of great note among the 
inhabitants of Peru and Chili, as a fancy dish. Fell in 
with a large turpin, the first one any of us ever saw ; 
when we came up with him, he retreated within his 
shell : we turned him over upon his back, to see his 
agility in turning himself back ; he ran out his long 
neck, which was not less than two feet and a half long, 
and with his short legs labored most assiduously ; he at 
length accomplished his object ; this done, we laid hold 
of his le^s, which were not more than six inches Ions:, 
and started for the boat; when we came to a steep point 
in the path, we would place him upon the edge of his 
shell, and set him rolling, — many times a long way. 
After toiling a long time, we reached the boat. Soon 
others, who had gone in a different way, returned 
richly laden; they found one so very large, they were 
imable to bring it until divested of its shell. About 
thirty were taken during the few days we remained at 
this island. Getting ready we proceeded to sea, ran 
close to the rock of Dundas. This is a monumental 
rock of black granite, rearing its head eighty or an 
hundred feet above the water. The water around it is 
about sixty fathoms deep ; the currents are such, that it 
is utterly impossible for ships to float or be driven 
against it ; the sides are so bold that it cannot be 
ascended ; boobys and other birds are always perched 
upon the top. The wind being light, we lowered our 



96 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

boat and set lines for fishing; divided the seven lines 
between two boats, and in a couple of hours took about 
400 large red fish, called by the seamen snappers ; as 
fast as the lines could be set the fish were caught. 
We salted the principal part of them ; we left the place 
and proceeded on our way, the wind and weather was 
most beautiful. Smoothly we glided along at the rate 
of four or five knots an hour, bound for the Society 
Islands. Fell in with a large number of whale going 
north; lowered away the boats; took seven, and had 
them alongside at dark ; the ship was hove too, and the 
next morning the oil was tried; had 105 barrels. 

Passing Otaheite, we came abreast of the harbor of 
Emer ; the high points of land on both sides becalmed us 
so we were obliged to lower our boats and take the ship 
in tow : we brought her into the harbor, and hove her 
anchor to keep her off the coral reef, which lay close 
under our lee. Before the sails could be furled, the ship 
was covered with females w^ho had swam to her. 
Whether the use of the boats is forbidden them I know 
not yet 1 presume such is the fact, with regard to this 
as well as to other islands; at any rate, during our stay 
I did not see any of them in a boat. Here we procured 
wood and water, and had liberty on shore ; during our 
stay two men left the ship. Having once myself suffered 
much as a deserter, I chose to stay. When ready to 
leave, we hove up the anchor, and not having room 
enough for our vessel to cast, or turn, she ran directly 
upon the coral reef; we let go an anchor, but not in 
time to have it avail us any thing ; then unshackling 
the chain, we lowered the kedge into a boat, carried it 
out astern the length of the line, and let her go ; hauling 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 97 

away upon the line, hove the ship off to a proper dis- 
tance, and let go another anchor. We next went on 
shore to get divers to go for the anchor we first let go ; 
the one first obtained was a young man altogether 
unexperienced in the art; his first dive proved inef- 
fectual ; when he came to the surface, the blood gushed 
from his nostrils in streams, and was with much difii- 
cully stopped. The second one took his small line and 
succeeded in attaching it to the ring of the anchor: again 
diving, taking a large hawser with him, he fastened 
the small line to it, and again came to the surface ; 
then with the small one, drew the hawser through the 
ring, and brought it to the ship's side. Veering away 
upon the hawser, we brought the ship directly over the 
anchor ; manning the Avindlass, we hove the ship to her 
berth again; loosing down upon the anchor again, 
with the hawser veered away, and again brought the 
ship's bow directly over it, and hauled it to the water's 
edge, then hooking the cat-block secured it to the ship. 
Putting all things in readiness, we set sail; several days 
elapsed before we knew whither we were bound: at 
length the captain informed us that we were going to 
the Coast of Japan. A long time elapsed before we even 
saw tile spout of a whales. Passing the meridian we 
fell in with a school of whale; took about 100 barrels of 
oil. Saw no more until off the coast of Japan. 

While on our way we took fish of many kinds, caught 
many dolphins, one of the beautiful inhabitants of the 
sea. '• The general length of this fish appears to be 
about two feet. In its shape it bears little resemblance 
to the representation of it seen on vases and in marine 
emblems and armorial bearings, but is very similar to 



98 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

the white salmon-trout of the Otsego. When swim- 
ming in the water its colors appears exceedingly delicate 
and beautiful. The head, back, and upper part of the 
sides, vary from the hues of burnished steel to that of 
deep azure and mazarine blue, shading off in the under 
parts in pea-green and light yellow. One was struck 
with a harpoon and brought on deck, and we all hast- 
ened to witness the reported splendor of its colors when 
dying. We found them to be as truly beautiful as they 
have been described ; consisting of rapid transitions from 
the deepest purple approaching to black, through blue, 
green, gold of different hues, and several shades of sil- 
ver, to an almost snow white, and then to purple again. 
The sight however was painful, from a kind of sym- 
pathy with the beautiful sufferer, we could but feel that 
the gratification of our curiosity was at the expense of 
its life. The colors soon became less and less brilliant, 
and in five minutes entirely disappeared." 

The flying fish also attracted much attention. Many 
of them were taken as they flew on deck. They are of 
a slender proportion, about six inches long ; they some- 
times spring into the air even to the height of sixteen 
or eighteen feet, and swim horizontally through the air 
twenty or twenty-five feet, when they again fall into 
their native element. When under the surface they are 
incessantly pursued by dolphins, and while in the air 
they become the prey of sea gulls and other sea fowls, 
which are hovering over the sea in quest of food. 

A person ignorant of their nature would suppose them 
birds of small size, for like swallows they move by 
thousands in a right line, and always in a direction op- 
posite that of the waves. 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 99 

At the island of Niphon we took several whale and 
blackfish ; we also spoke several whale ships while 
cruising there. 

One day while in company with the ships, we saw a 
large school of v/hales at a distance. The boats were 
immediately lowered and all gave chase. We only took 
one, while some took two or three. One was taken 
along side and preparation made for boiling the oil. 
While in the midst of it a heavy squall arose from the 
northeast blowing like a perfect hurricane, threw our 
ship upon her beam ends, and sent the oil out of the 
pots, which were full, on to the men, severely scalding 
them. 

Every thing movable was capsized. Those below, 
thinking the vessel was going down, came hurriedly 
upon deck with horror most visibly depicted on their 
countenance. For some time all stood still, momenta- 
rily expecting the next moment would see us engulphed 
beneath the billows. 

Fortunately for us our sails were all stowed, as is 
customary in the time of boiling the oil, except a close 
reefed main-top-sail and fore-sail. The fore-sail was 
hauled up soon as possible, and the helm seized by one 
of the officers. 

The violence of the wind abated somewhat, when the 
rain came down in torrents, accompanied by lightning 
and thunder. 

The gale continued from the N. E. about six hours, 
when it suddenly shifted to the opposite point of the 
compass and blew, if possible, with redoubled energy, 
another six hours. The vessel creaked most terribly in 



100 LIFE AND ADVENTURM 

her struggles, her lee gunwales in the water, and the 

sea breaking yard arm high. 

The captain thought proper at this time to lighten her 
of her top hamper. We were obliged to mount the 
masts to a distance of seventy or eighty feet, and when 
there, with every swell of the sea we would be carried 
with great velocity through a space of eighty or a hun- 
dred feet. 

The screams of those below, as they tried to make 
themselves heard, came to our ears, borne upon the 
tempest, like the shrieks of the dying. The mast and 
yards being let go eased her considerably, though the 
storm raged with unabated fury. 

Never before had I seen the sea presenting such an 
awful spectacle. '-The fearful commotion which it was 
under was indeed indescribably sublime, yet was too 
dreadfully terrific, when at its height, to allow of much 
enjoyment. When it evidently begins to abate, and 
hope tells you the worst is passed, you are left to the 
indulgence of unmingled and enthusiastic admiration, 
and may gaze with delight at the ever varying scene, 
as wave after wave rears its monstrous head 'and 
casts its foaming horrors to the clouds.' 

'•But, till this change does take place — while every 
successive blast blows harder and harder, and each bil- 
low threatens more surely than its precursor, to bury 
you under its weight, — it is impossible. Thoughts of 
fear must check, if they do not take entire place of the 
higher feelings of admiration.'' 

At length the fury of the tempest abated; we finished 
trying the oil, made sail and stood for the Sandwich 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 101 

Islands. Nothing of note occurred while on the pas- 
sage. 

Reached Maui the first of October, 1834. Having 
cut my foot on the passage, I was put under the charge 
of a resident physician, where I remained fourteen days. 
At the expiration of that time we took our departure 
from the island and stood away for the Navigators' Is- 
lands, cruising for whales, though taking only a few, 
and those very small. 

Cruising among the different groups, we reached Pit- 
cairn's Island in the month of December. 

This island is noted as being the residence of Alexan- 
der Smith, alias ^ John Adams, one of the Mutineers of 
the ship Bounty, which was fitted out and sailed from 
England in 1787, for Otaheite, to procure the bread fruit 
tree and other trees and plants, which were to be intro- 
duced into the West Indies as articles of food. 

Having procured a supply, they sailed for their des- 
tined port, and while ofi" the Friendly isles the spirit of 
mutiny was breathed forth, the vessel seized, and the offi- 
cers bound. One of the ship's boats was then lowered 
away, the officers and eighteen such as were not wanted 
put in, also a quantity of provisions and rum, a com- 
pass, and articles of clothing, blankets, &c., were al- 
lowed them, and the boat sent adrift. 

The mutineers, twenty-five in number, then proceeded 

to Otaheite, where a dissension took place and sixteen 

left the ship. The remaining nine, with six Otahitean 

men and twelve women, proceeded to Pitcairn's Island, 

where again domestic broils and assassinations ensued, 

and all of the Otaheitean men, and all the Englishmen, 

except two, fell. Thev established a code of laws by 
9* 



102 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

which they were governed. Smith, who changed his 
name to Adams, procured from the ship a bible and 
prayer-book, served as teacher or guide, enforcing the 
most strict discipUne. His word was law. This teacher 
died in 1829, being the last male that landed there, the 
other who survived the broils and desertions, having 
died some time previous. 

The number on the island at the death of the patri- 
arch Adams was about eighty. 

At the island of Rohanah, of the Friendly Islands, 
myself and one other were prompted by the poor suc- 
cess we had had to again leave the ship. This was put 
in force the day previous to the departure of the ship. 
When we went on shore with the boat's crew, we fled 
to the mountains. 

Having collected a few boughs together and built a 
hut, we went in quest of food, being very careful about 
breaking down the grass so as to form a path, lest the 
natives would find us. Obtained a quantity of banan- 
nas, plantains, and oranges, also a calabash of water. 
The next morning, quite to our delight, we saw from 
our mountain retreat the ship, with all canvass to the 
breeze, gliding swiftly from the harbor. 

We came down upon the beach among the natives, 
who treated us kindly, urging us to partake of their 
simple fare. 

There were two Europeans, one from Ireland, the 
other from England, who had long been residents there. 

We remained there seventeen days, when the brig 
Doll arrived there from Otaheite. She was cruising 
among the different groups for seals. They being in 
want of hands, I shipped myself as seaman. I informed 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 103 

my companion of my engagement, also of their want of 
more, when he deridingly said, " when he went to sea 
he should go in a ship." 

The vessel was indeed one not at all prepossessing in 
its appearance, being old and poorly rigged, still I was 
willing to try my chance in her. 

NecessarjT- preparations being made we set sail. Our 
crew was composed of ten Europeans, and six natives 
of the Society Islands. All things passed along very 
finely indeed, and in a few days we made the island of 
Magdalena, one of the Marquesas group. We knew 
the murderous cruelty of the inhabitants, still we pro- 
posed landing; and put the boats in readiness. When 
we came near the shore, the natives rushed in numbers 
to the bank, yelling and screaming most horridly, hold- 
ing a human skull and other bones in their hands, which 
they brandished about, defying our attempts to land. 

Finding it useless to parley with them, we put back 
to the ship, and squaring our yards, stood around to the 
north end of Wytohoo and entered the straits that sep- 
arate Wytohoo from Dominica, at a distance of from 
seven to twelve miles. Running through the straits we 
came abreast of the harbor long known as Resolution 
Bay. It being now near night, the captain thought pro- 
per to lay off and on during the night, and go on shore 
in the morning. 

That night we witnessed one of the most sublime 
spectacles I ever witnessed — what is termed a phospho- 
rific illumination. 

'^ The horizon in every direction presented a line of 
uninterrupted light, while the wide space intervening 
was one extent of apparent fire. The sides of our 



104 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

vessel appeared kindling to a blaze, and as our bows 
occasionally dashed against a wave, the flash of the 
concussion gleamed half way up the rigging, and illum- 
inated every object along the whole length of the ship. 
By throwing any article overboard a display of light 
and colors took place surpassing in brilliancy and beauty 
the finest exhibition of fire-works. 

'^ A charming effect was produced by a line coiled to 
some length, and then cast into the water at a distance, 
and also by a bucket of water dashed from the side of 
a vessel. The rudder, too, by its motions created splen- 
did corruscations at the stern, and a flood of light, by 
which our track was marked far behind us. The 
smaller fish were distinctly traceable by running lines 
showing their rapid course, while now and then broad 
glimmerings, extending many yards in every direction, 
made known the movements of some monster of the 
deep. 

^^But minuteness will only weary without conveying 
any adequate impression of the scene. It would have 
been wise perhaps only to have said that it was among 
the most sublime nature herself ever presents." 

At eleven that evening a strong breeze arose from the 
west-south-west, which strengthened with each succeed- 
ing moment, until it ripened into a perfect gale. 

We made sail to get clear of the land. They were 
no sooner spread, than torn from the yards by the wind 
with a noise like thunder. Many a pale face and trem- 
bling lip were there. Before us, and under our lee were 
nothing but high and craggy rocks, to which we were 
rapidly hastening, with seemingly no chance of es- 
cape. 




w 

H 

o 
o 

H 

o 

Oh 
P 

w 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 107 

The wind rushing through the rigging so furiously, 
rendered all attempts to be heard fruitless. 

The lightning's incessant flashing, accompanied by 
loud thunder, rendered our situation the most appalling. 
Each moment brought us nearer the rocks. 

Our second mate, Mr. Anderson of England, lowered 
the larboard boat, with six men, (they were the Otahi- 
teans, who eagerly rushed into the boat,) beside himself, 
which no sooner touched the water than they found a 
watery grave. Their shrieks were heard and moved 
our hearts to pity, but the hands that gladly would have 
rendered them assistance, were palsied. They were be- 
yond our reach. We saw the waves sweep over them, 
as the wind moaned their requiem. 

The anchor being let go served to swing the vessel 
around, head to the wind, and in some degree to check 
her progress. 

This being considered a favorable moment, the cap- 
tain instantly lowered away his boat with the remain- 
ing eight, (one having been lost overboard in the early 
part of the gale,) in safety. But we were only just in 
season, for a moment after the ship parted from her 
anchor, and rushed upon the rocks with a mighty crash. 

So complete was the wreck that scarce one plank was 
left upon another. 

We lay in the harbor from two o'clock, A. M. until 
day, keeping under the point for shelter from the blast, 
about a mile from where the vessel struck. 



lOS LIFE AND ADVENTURES 



CHAPTER VII. 

Got on shore among the Cannibals. The reception. Description of 
the Tabu ground. Visit the scene of the wreck, after the storm 
subsides, accompanied by the king and chiefs. Manner of build- 
ing. Manner of bathing. The bread fruit. Description of the 
Carver. The Captain proposes leaving for Otaheite. Are taken 
around to the other tribes. iDeath of one of our number from the 
sun's heat. Manner in which the dead are disposed of. 

^ HE next morning, Feb. 3d, 1835, we went on 

T^ shore. As we reached the beach, found it 
e hned with natives. Seeing no weapons, we 
P asked by signs for permission to land. This 
^^ was readily obtained. 
The moment the boat struck the sand, a line of natives 
was formed on each side, who laid hold of the gunwales 
and carried boat and crew up about twice the length 
of her, out the way of the waves, and sat it down. The 
treatment that was in store for us was quite a query. 

Getting out of the boat we were examined from head 
to foot, being turned around and around, they during the 
survey chattering among themselves with great volu- 
bility. 

They soon withdrew a short distance, into the tabu 
ground, and were a long time in consultation, leaving 
us standing by ourselves on the beach. The tabu 
ground is an enclosure of about an acre, set about with 
posts which are wound around with the inner or fine 
bark of a tree called Tappa, which is thin and white. 



o 
H 

o 
w 

H 
W 

Si 

► 

CO 




10 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 113 

It is dug down about a foot lower than the ground 
around. Agamst this bark flat stones about two feet 
long are set on the end, nearly as thick as they can 
stand. Against these they recline, sitting cross legged 
on the ground. In the immediate center is a table made 
of flat stones, on which the food at the time of the 
grand feast is placed. All public business is transacted 
here. 

After a while they came running very fast towards 
us. By this we were fearful they intended us no good, 
but we were happily disappointed. They seemed fully 
to realize the nature of our situation, and immediately 
set themselves about ameliorating our condition and 
rendering us comfortable as possible, giving us to eat of 
such as they had — bread fruit — banannas — raw fish, 
&c. Of the vegetables we ate plentifully ; the raw fish 
being an entirely new dish, we passed it lightly by. 

Finishing our repast, we were taken two by two and 
put at difierent families, where all seemed touched by 
the spirit of sympathy for our sufierings. 

The wind subsiding into almost a calm, we with the 
Pnia (or king) and chiefs repaired to the boats, and 
rowed around the point, about three miles, to where the 
vessel lay, or rather went on to the rocks, for so com- 
plete was the wreck that there v\^as not enough left of 
her to leave even the least trace of a ship discernible. 

The rocks against which she struck were not low 

and shelving, as is many times the case, but high and 

bold, rising about fifty feet perpendicularly, and ranging 

a mile or two along the coast. The water at the very 

base is from fifty to seventy fcQt deep, thus leaving no 

place whatever for any thing to remain on them. 
10* 



114 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

Returningj our boat was taken as before, and landed 
above the washing of the sea, and when we got out, 
was turned over and the oars laid by for safety. 

Night coming on, we were again distributed around 
among the different families, where Ave were made wel- 
come to all they had. Much time was spent in trying 
to make us understand them. This we could not do, 
except they could convey their ideas to our minds by 
signs. 

It may be well at this period of the adventure to give 
a description of the huts or houses, in order to get 
a more definite idea of the passing events. 

The front side and ends are made by driving posts or 
sticks of bamboo into the ground and secured by fasten- 
ing a strong one across the top. The roof is made also 
of sticks of bamboo, serving as rafters, across which 
others are fastened, making it very strong indeed. The 
whole is then covered with several thicknesses of the 
largest outspread plantain leaves. These are also fast- 
ened by lashing bamboo across them, being entirely im- 
pervious to the rain. The roof on the front side extends 
to within about four feet of the ground, while on the 
back side it extends entirely to it. 

The door is merely an opening left between the bam- 
boos, when in the progress of building. 

A wall made of flat stones about fifteen inches high, 
extending along the front side, occupies about two-thirds 
of the whole interior of the dwelling. On this wall, or 
floor, they perform all the labor of the family, such as 
preparing and eating their food. Their provision is 
served up in one common dish and placed on the floor, 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 115 

when all gather around, sitting cross legged, and each 
with his fingers helping himself. 

The remaining one-third is occupied as a bed. This 
is made of leaves and dried grass. The head, or that 
next the roof, is made about ten inches high, sloping 
gently down against the wall. Sometimes the whole is 
covered with coarse mats made of grass. The sleeper 
is obliged to lie on his back, placing his legs, from be- 
low the bend of the knee, on this v/all. A severe pen- 
alty is attached to the act of placing a foot on, or 
throwing any thing on or across the bed. I have no 
recollection of the law's ever being enforced, and in fact 
I cannot say as I ever knew of its being broken, volun- 
tarily, or otherwise than by accident, which, except by 
severely reprimanding the offender, was overlooked. 
Great precaution, however, is observed respecting it. 

At an early hour we were shown to our beds. The 
manner of lying was so unnatural that we could rest 
but little, longing continually for the approach of morn- 
ing. Beside the awkward position in which we lay, 
ve were continually annoyed by bugs and insects, with 
which the bed was literally filled. 

In the morning with the first ray of light we were 
out and upon the beach. Soon others of our ill-fated 
companions joined us, who, like ourselves, found much 
fault with their lod^incrs. Ere Ions: the king and other 
natives came also upon the beach. \Yhile we were 
talking of our situation and prospects they would stand 
by with staring eyes and open mouths, seeming exceed- 
ingly anxious to understand our conversation. 

Their morning repast being ready we again returned 
to our respective homes. 



116 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

Our breakfast was composed of bread friiitj raw fish, 
&c.,of which we partook with appetites sharpened by 
deprivation and fatigue. 

The natives usually bathe each morning, and often 
many times during the day near their huts, in a place 
most beautifully adapted to it. 

Out of the rock there pours a stream of clear, cold 
water, about six inches in diameter, and twenty-five or 
thirty feet from the ground, which falls into a kind of 
basin from whence it runs into the sea. 

Under this the natives jump and most efiectually 
shower themselves. Should the water coming that dis- 
tance strike them before it was broken or separated, 
they could not stand its force ; but such is not the case, 
as it breaks soon after leaving the rock, and falls upon 
a large surface Avith but little force. 

To this spring ships often come for supplies of water, 
as there can be none better found, besides the quantity 
wanted is easily obtained. 

The bread fruit in its various forms constitutes the 
principal article of food among them, and is found in 
great abundance. There are two crops in a year ; one 
in May, the other in November. The greater reliance, 
however, is placed upon the May crop, which ripens 
much the best. The November crop, or what can be 
spared of it, is collected and baked in an Euma or oven, 
which is a large hole dug in the earth about two feet 
deep, and from two to five feet across, according to the 
quantity to be baked. Large flat stones are placed on 
the bottom, on which a fire is kindled ; smaller stones 
are placed in the fire, which, becoming heated, are re- 
moved, the embers nicely cleared out, the stones are 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 117 

then covered with large green plantain leaves, the fruit 
also wrapped in leaves, put in, and the small heated 
stones put over. Water is thrown on to create a steam 
and the vv^hole hastily covered with earth. After being 
baked, the covering of earth and stones is removed, the 
rind or shell scraped off, and the meat wrapped closely 
in leaves is placed in a large hole in the ground dug 
for the purpose, being placed so they will not touch each 
other. After the first layer is placed, a quantity of 
leaves are strewn over and another layer put on. Thus 
they proceed until the hole is full, when it is covered 
with earth and kept in case of a failure of the next or 
any other crop. It will keep so for a great length of 
time. One hole, while I was there, was found accident- 
ally which was not filled within the recollection of any 
then living, and yet the fruit was in a perfect state 
and as sweet as when put there. Fruit thus pre- 
pared is called May. But if intended for the family's 
immediate use, the rind is also scraped off, when it is 
pounded to a jelly and mixed with water. This is 
called Poe^ and is taken from the dish by the two first 
fingers, called ^- poe-fingers," which are thrust into it 
and twirled swiftly around the poe. Being of the con- 
sistency of paste it adheres to the finger and is thrown 
into the mouth. The hands are always washed, both 
before and after eating. Any person not doing this is 
driven from the dish to eat alone, as being unfit to eat 
there ; though that seldom happens, such laws, or cus- 
toms being most strictly adhered to. 

As a drink, they use very freely an article called 
Carver^ which is made from a root found in the up- 
lands. After being dug or pulled it is chewed by the 



118 



LIFE AND ADVENTURES 



females and put in a calabash of water, when it fer- 
ments, then it is strained through long grass and is fit 
for use. This, if drank in copious draughts, causes a 
dizziness and a horribly distorted countenance. They 
lose the use of their limbs, and fall and roll about on 
the ground, until the stupefaction wears away. 

The Carver is much used for medical purposes, being 
very efficacious in its results. If it is taken in great 
quantities, the skin becomes dry and parched, and peals 
off, like the effects of the sun's heat upon the hand or 
neck, leaving an entirely new and smooth surface—- 
completely renovating the entire system. 

During my stay there I was bitten by a Centipede 
on the ball of my thumb. The Serrever or doctor put 
me to bed, upon my back, as was always the position 
for lying, fastened my hand up to the roof of the hut, 
and secured a bark, in a dish-like form, around the 
wrist, into which he poured carver. In the morning 
the pain was entirely removed, and I suffered no farther 
inconvenience from it. The bite from them often re- 
sults in death. 

One curious fact respecting it is, that when chewed 
by the natives, it comes from the mouth dry like meal 
from the mill. This I often attempted to perform, but 
was not able to do it. 

The females usually prepare it, though they are pro- 
hibited its use. During my stay I knew of but one or 
two instances of a violation of that law. 

We loitered around the island altogether discontent- 
ed. I think, however, we might have lived a few days 
among them tolerably well, had not the idea of our be- 



OF WILLIA3I TORREY. 119 

ing obliged to do so, with no means of getting away, 
been so terribly impressed upon the mind. 

We visited most of the famihes in the valley, and at 
each saw new scenes. Some were making poe, others 
braiding mats, while some were making tappa, oars, 
spears, &c. 

In our rambles we were always accompanied by a 
score of natives, who followed us at a little distance, 
watching our every movement. In one instance we 
came to an orange grove, where we stopped to pick some 
of the fruit. They came running furiously to us, cry- 
ing '- tabu ! tabu ! P^ at the top of their voices, and tak- 
ing the fruit from us, drew us from the spot. This 
puzzled us not a little. We soon learned, however, that 
they had been reserved by the king for some special 
purpose, who had tabued them, or placed such restric- 
tions upon them, that no one of the tribe dare touch 
them, it being considered a great offence. 

The Captain being altogether sick of such a life, pro- 
posed going to Otaheite in the open boat. He urged no 
one to go with him, but simply proposed the thing, 
kindly offering to share his last morsel with those who 
should be disposed to undertake it with him. One after 
another acceded to his proposition, until all, save my- 
self and two others, Dawson, a native of Liverpool, 
England, and Noyce, of Albany, New York, — had 
pledged themselves to go. We knowing the utter im- 
practicability of such an undertaking at that season of the 
year, especially, when violent tornadoes swept over that 
portion of the seas, accompanied with heavy rains, 
would not consent to go, choosing rather to remain with 
the natives and run the risk of our ever getting away. 



120 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

The natives were apprised of their wish to go, when 
they immediately repaired to the mountains, got them 
small pigSj a quantity of bread fruit, cocoa-nuts, banan- 
nas, &c., also a few calabashes of water. 

With the most sanguine expectations they started, 
having nothing to guide them but a small boat compass, 
and promising to return and take us away. Of this we 
had no hopes, believing it would be an adventure of 
constant and unmitigated suffering, terminating in 
death. 

'We watched them as long as discernible from the 
beach, when, unwilling to lose sight of them, we as- 
cended a high bluff, where with straining eyes we 
anxiously followed them, till by night and distance, they 
were entirely excluded. 

With heavy hearts we returned to the valley, deter- 
mined to conform, in every instance, to their whims and 
notions, however humiiiating, hoping by so doing to 
obtain their confidence, which would be of vast import- 
ance to us. 

After a few days spent among them, in which we 
most scrutinizingly watched their every movement, we 
were taken around to the other valleys or tribes. 

The island is composed of high bluffs, running from 
the water inland. BetVi^een each mountain or bluff is a 
low fertile valley through which a small rivulet courses 
itself. The banks are lined with orange groves, bread 
fruit trees and plantains, &c., which grow in the great- 
est luxuriance. These valleys are occupied by different 
tribes, each bearing a mark peculiar to themselves. 
Some bear it upon the hands, others upon the face, 
breast, <fcc. The tribe with which I was connected 



OF WILLUM TORREY. 121 

bore it upon the hands, wrists and ancles. This was 
the largest tribe on the island, called the Teheda. 

Each tribe which we visited were exceedingly joyous 
at our approach, gathering around and examining us 
minutely, and almost deafening us with their confound- 
ed gibbering. 

At night the huts in which we stayed were filled to 
overflowing, so eager were they to see the •• Tehoanf' 
or white man, as they called us. 

We went on day after day. On the seventh day 
Dawson was taken sick through the influence of the sun 
upon his head, or correctly speaking, was sun struck. 
At mid-day he would be raving, so much so, as to ren- 
der it extremely difficult to take care of him. Destitute 
as we were of medicine and medical skill, we could do 
but little for him. As the day advanced and the sun 
declined, he would be more quiet, and remain so until 
its approach the next day, when he was again deliri- 
ous. On the fourth day he expired in the most excru- 
ciating agony. 

We had seen death seize upon his victims in almost 
every form, but never before had he approached seem- 
ingly so near. 

As a last sad office to be performed to our departed 
friend, we set about digging a grave, as best we could 
with our rude implements of digging. 

This was not allowed by the natives, who v\rished to 
take charge of it according to their own notions, which 
was to wind the body closely with the fine or inner 
bark of the Tappa, a tree much resembling the paper 
mulberr}^ this to be wound ten or fifteen times around. 

The body was then taken to a small uninhabited hut 

n 



122 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

and placed upon a bench, or table, made by driving 
sticks of bamboo into the ground, across the top of 
which others are fastened, and interlaid, thus forming a 
table about two feet high. On this the body was placed, 
where it was to remain until it should moulder and 
crumble away. 

The bodies of friends are many times thus wound, 
and hung by a loop worked ingeniously in the covering 
on the top of the head, to the ridge of the house in 
which they live, where it remains a considerable time, 
when it is taken down, divested of its covering, and 
placed in the sun, when the outer surface, or skin, 
parches, and is easily rubbed off, which is done with 
the hand. The entrails are then removed, the body 
cleanly washed out, and again wound as before, and 
hung in its former place, where it remains until it liter- 
ally falls in pieces. I have in one or two instances 
seen several hanging in one house, completely filling 
the house in and around, with the most ofiensive odor, 
yet they live unmindful of it. 

The bodies of kings and those of the royal family 
are placed, after being wound as before described, in a 
hut erected on purpose, on or near the tabu ground, in 
a sitting posture, with the arms raised, the elbow bent 
to an angle, and supported by sticks of bamboo, driven 
in the earth. On either side is a man placed, who are 
taken in war, or stolen from some neighboring tribe, 
and sacrificed for the purpose, also wound in bark. 
These are supposed to accompany them in the capacity 
of servants. 

At the expiration of three weeks we returned to our 
own tribe where we were most cordially received. 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 123 

On our arrival we were separated from each other, 
and not allowed to meet but very seldom. If by chance 
however we stole together, we were instantly torn 
apart. 

Being thus obliged to converse in their language, if 
at all, enabled us, at the expiration of some three or 
four months, to speak it tolerably well. 

This deprivation, change of diet, and the probability 
of our being forever doomed to dwell among them, tend- 
ed much to impair our health. 

Our principal occupation was to gather the bread 
fruit, prepare and roast it. 




124 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 



CHAPTER VIII. 

A war breaks out. Its causes. Awful Massacre. The Author is 
tattooed. Manner of its accomplishment. An attack is made 
upon the Cohapha. Disposition of the prisoners. Continuance of 
the war. A ship comes to anchor. Our fond hopes blasted. Pur- 
chase a gun. Departure of the ship. The author builds a hut 
and takes a wife. Effect of the gun upon the Cohaphas. They 
attempt another night attack. Its results. The grand appearance 
of our army. Result of a single shot. The Author is wounded. 
Kill the native and take possession of the body and gun. The 
king rewards us. The body is roasted. Singular adventure with 
a wild hog. The Cohaphas wish for peace. The place of skulls. 
Peace is declared. 

y^ru^Tj^fwjxf^^ E lly^g^ g^s happily as might be expected 
e ^ A / p until the first of May, when a war broke 
5 j/ 51 < o^^^ between our tribe and the Cohapha. 
%jxfuuu\j\f\f\^ These broils and dissensions existing be- 
tween the different tribes, are often caused by some 
trivial affair, perhaps a trifling theft, an injury or insult 
offered an individual, the resentment of which calls the 
power of the whole tribe into action. 

Oftentimes the friendly visit of one party to another 
results in a fierce contest through some trifling circum- 
stance by which they become embroiled, although the 
person injured or killed may have been greatly the ag- 
gressor. 

A king at death becomes a god, and is supposed to 
watch over the destiny of the tribe, and if there should 
any trouble exist, or a scarcity of bread fruit, or of other 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 125 

crops occur, he is supposed to be angry, and, to appease 
his anger, a sacrifice is made of one or more human 
beings, who, if they are at peace with the neighboring 
tribes, so as to render the capture of them in battle 
uncertam, are stolen. This last was the cause of the war 
in which our tribe at this time was engaged. 

A king dying in the Cohapha, rendered the seizure of 
victims from some other tribe necessary. 

Stealing into our bay at the dead of night, v/hile all 
were. fast in sleep^ they cautiously entered the first huts 
they came to, and before the alarm could be given had 
killed and were carrying away twelve men, three 
women and two children. 

So expert were they that even their bodies could not 
be recovered. 

We being then at peace with all other tribes and fear- 
ing nothing, were consequently off our guard. 

This was within a very few feet of the hut in which 
I was sleeping, and when I reflect upon my own narrow 
escape, my blood almost chills in its current of life. 

A council of war was next morning called, when it 
was determined to put to death all not belonging to 
the tribe. 

Every thing now presented an aspect differing en- 
tirely from other days. 

Our great valley was now the scene of confusion. On 
every side were blood-thirsty Avarriors impatient for the 
contest to begin. War canoes were lashed together, 
clubs and spears put in order, and every man under 
arms. 

Such was now the issue, that Noyce and myself were 
called upon to decide whether we would bear the king's 



126 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

mark and join the tribe and assist in protecting the bay. 
This we would gladly have passed by, but there Avas 
no alternative, save in death and leaving the island. 
The latter would have been preferred had an opportu- 
nity presented itself. 

Consequently we were brought forward to be tat- 
tooed, which was done on the back of the hand, as seen 
in the Frontispiece- 
First an ink is made from the smoke of the Amer nut, 
which when ripe is about the size of the common fil- 
bert. These are strung on the stem of the cocoa-nut 
leaf, which when dry is hard and stiff. The larger end 
of this stem is placed in the ground, or in some manner 
so that it will stand erect, when the top end is lighted 
and burns freely. The stem of the leaf serves as wick. 
Over the blaze a piece of bark is held to collect the 
smoke. When a sufficient quantity is collected, it is 
put in water, thus forming an ink. 

The figure to be made is then traced on the desired 
spotj with a stick dipped in the ink. An instrument 
made by fastening six or eight small sharp fish bones to 
a stick, which in shape much resembles the gauge used 
in splitting straw, is dipped in the solution and driven 
into the flesh by means of a blow given v/ith a short 
stick, thus forming a mark which cannot be obliter- 
ated. 

This was an operation indeed painful, especially so 
on the more sinewy parts of the hand. A long time 
elapsed before I could use my hands very much. 

A person thus marked is considered as the king's own 
private property, subject entirely to his control and dis- 
position, and when bearing this mark can never desert 



OF WILLUM TOREEY. 127 

the tribe, for he would be as cruelly treated by the tribe 
he wishes to join, as by the deserted one, should he be 
taken, the penalty for which is death. 

All things being in readiness for the attack upon the 
Cohapha, for the purpose of recovering the loss of our 
men, we started. There were three parties of us. 
Noyce was with the king, I with the first chief, after 
whom we were respectively named, Capayoho, a war- 
rior, Whooro, a good man. 

It was late in the evening when we started. The 
sky was clear, the stars shone unusually bright, as if 
approving our mission. So stilly they rowed, that not 
a noise was heard, save the surf dashing against the 
iron bound shore from the long and heavy regular swell 
of the sea. Not a word was heard, for every man knew 
his duty without an order. 

Thus we continued on in silence until we reached the 
bay. We neared the shore and landed about thirty 
men, a sufficient number being left with the boats. 

They had scarce left us when the whole welkin rang 
with loud shrieks ; the war-whoop was sounded. 

Our men returned bringing with them ten men, four 
women and two children. Some Vv^ere borne upon the 
backs of the captors, others were drawn upon the ground 
by the feet. They were brought alive, though their 
limbs were broken and their skulls badly fractured. 

Our canoes shoved off amid the groans of the dying 
an(i the shouts and songs of triumph of the captors. 
The next morning those that were brought alive, hav- 
mg in one or two instances returned to consciousness, 
were brought forward to the tabu ground, and fastened 



128 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

with the face towards a stake, driven in the ground for 
the purpose. 

The king then with a long pole, on the end of which 
is a wad, or tuft of hair, white as snow, which is the 
beard of some man, generally of their own tribe, who 
had lived to a great age, walks slowly around the stake 
followed by the chief, who carries a heavy war club, 
which he brandishes furiously about, at the same time 
chanting a kind of tune, in which he is joined by many 
of the tribe, who are all gathered around. 

After walking a few times around, the chief, quick as 
thought, gives the prisoner a blow upon the head, 
which at once puts an end to his existence ; he was 
then unloosed from the stake, and prepared for the 
oven. 

A war dance was then performed around the body, 
accompanied with loud shouting, singing, and clapping 
of hands. 

The preparations were then made for roasting the 
bodies ; the ovens were heated, bread fruit, and other 
things collected in great abundance; the bodies were 
brought forward, having the entrails removed, the legs 
bent upon the back, and fastened to the neck. Small 
hot stones were placed in the body, and the whole then 
placed in the ovens, as described. The time required 
for baking a body in that manner, does not exceed 
forty minutes. 

When the bodies are baked, they are removed from 
the oven to a table, where they are disjointed. A pro- 
cession is then formed, headed by the king and chiefs, 
followed by the members of the royal family. A person 
selected for the purpose then follows with a calabash, 



OF WILLIAM TORREY, 129 

filled with a portion of the body, also of the other arti- 
cles prepared for the occasion. 

The procession is made up of all belonging to the 
tribe, and are marched amid loud shouting and singing 
to the place where the remains of the former kings lie, 
where the contents of the calabash is cast, saying, 
'^ there is some for you ;" this is repeated at every feast, 
and often times at every meal, a bit is thrown into a 
calabash, (set on purpose), with the same feeling of 
dependence. 

In and around the houses of the gods, are bones of all 
shapes and kinds, of men, beasts, fovv^ls, and fishes, 
beside great quantities of fruits of all kinds, which are 
carried there from time to time, and deposited with 
incantations. 

After the ceremony is over they are marched back 
and dispersed about the ground, each helping them- 
selves as they wish. The grand feast is carried on 
with great glee, amid shouting, clapping of hands, 
blowing of shells, and a spirit of rivalry seemingly pre- 
vails among them in making the greatest noise, and in 
rejoicing the most over a fallen enemy. They eat as 
long as they can, when they join in the dance, or sink 
away into a senseless stupor, the cause of which, is, 
that on such occasions, they drink very freely indeed. 
This lasts from one half to an hour, when they again 
eat and drink, until the second and third stupor seizes 
upon them, which continues until the last morsel is 
eaten. 

In those feasts we were compelled to partake, which 
was greatly against our wishes ; yet had we been un- 
conscious of what the feast consisted^ I think we would 



130 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

have called it a most delicious morsel ; and should any 
of my readers sit down to a dish nicely prepared, with- 
out knowing what it was, or supposing it something 
different, I think they would join with me in declaring 
it of the richest flavor. 

The war by land now commenced, and was carried 
forward with vigor, each day visiting the battle field, 
and trying in every way to entrap their enemies. 
Sometimes a week would pass, and they not get si-ght 
of them. As they fought with clubs principally, they 
could do nothing except in close combat; this the 
enemy avoided ; if by chance one of them wandered off 
alone, he was almost sure to be taken, so much were 
our men on the alert. 

Noyce and myself, unaccustomed to the use of the 
spear or club, were allowed to stand neutral, this we 
continued to do for the space of five months. 

The ship Royal Sovereign, of London, came to an- 
chor in our harbor for the purpose of getting provisions, 
water, &lc. Soon as the ship was seen entering the 
harbor, we received strict orders not to step on board ; 
also in our presence, the people were told to keep the 
strictest watch of us, lest we should escape. This sud- 
denly put a damper on our hopes, for we had strongly 
hoped at its approach to find it a means of deliverance 
for us ; foiled in this, we concluded to take no notice of 
it, but rather appear as if perfectly willing it should be 
so, and watch an opportunity when we could without 
suspicion on their part, secrete ourselves on board some 
other ship. 

Our apparently caring but little about the restrictions, 
tended much to enliven them ; of this we made good 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 131 

use. Soon as the anchor was let go, the females 
plunged as usual into the water, and swam for the ship ; 
that is their usual way, as the use of the boats are pro- 
hibited them. The captain lowered away his boat, and 
came for the shore ; on his near approach he hailed for 
liberty to land. I stepped forward and gave him the 
desired permission ; he seemed greatly surprised at 
hearing his own language spoken here, while there were 
no ships lying in the bay. 

At his calling loudly, on his landing, for the English- 
man, who spoke to him, I came forward to them ; he 
could hardly believe me to be one, for the scanty allow- 
ance of clothes with which I left the wreck, had long 
before fallen off, leaving me entirely naked, and exposed 
to the sun's scorching rays ; besides, my long beard, 
and uncombed hair, rendered me in appearance scarce 
less than a savage. 

At the many inquiries he made respecting our situa- 
tion, the natives standing by would say, yahah^ or, what 
does he say ? As this was done at every inquiry, I had 
to use much deception, telling them he wanted hogs, 
fruit, and water, and for him to solicit the natives to 
assist in procuring them. 

Having acquainted him respecting the war, I proposed 
to buy a gun and ammunition, if he had one to spare ; 
he brought forward one, and I think the only one he 
had on board, and very poor at that, which he offered 
to sell me for hogs. I left him to consult the king, who 
stoutly refused to buy it ; I labored much with him, 
telling him how many of the Cohaphas I could kill, and 
at a great distance too, which I measured off to him ; 
at this he was greatly astonished, and immediately 



132 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

consented to have me purchase it. He sent men off to 
procure the hogs and fruit, which were taken to the 
beach the next morning; the captain was again brought 
on shore ; I offered him three hogs for the gun itself, 
and four for a quantity of ammunition. This he readily 
accepted. Taking the gun we thought ourselves well 
equipped for action. 

During the time the ship remained in the harbor, we 
were catching hogs, and gathering fruit which we bar- 
tered away with the ship's company for such articles as 
we might desire. 

At the expiration of ten days, the captain signified to 
me his intention to leave the harbor, expressing a strong 
desire to assist us in getting away ; this was altogether 
impossible, for we were most strictly watched. When 
the hour of their departure came, we with heart ready 
for bursting, bade them a cheerful farewell ; apparently 
well pleased with the idea of remaining behind ; this 
tended much towards insuring the confidence of the 
natives, which was now our principal object, so that at 
the arrival of the next ship, less vigilance would be 
observed, and we at length would be enabled to effect 
our escape. To this end we now used our whole 
endeavors, and strove as far as possible, to adopt their 
customs and notions as our own, and set about building 
huts for ourselves ; in this we were assisted very much 
by the natives, who joyously received the idea of our 
building them, considering the act an indication of con- 
tentedness. 

The hut being finished, I went out in search of a 
wife, knowing thereby that we would also enjoy greater 
security as well as gain their confidence. Finding a 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 133 

group of six or eight chewing carver I chatted with 
them awhile ; when taking one of them, a girl of about 
sixteen, by the ear sUghtly, I signified to her my wish 
of her becoming my wife. She instantly left her busi- 
ness, and accompanied me to my hut. That was all the 
required ceremony. 

A man at any time getting dissatisfied with his wife, 
has only to lead her from the house, bid her go else- 
where, and take to himself another more suited to his 
fancy. Finding the one I had first chosen diflering en- 
tirely from what I supposed, I made use of this prerog- 
ative, drove her from the house, a.nd chose for myself 
a daughter of one of the chiefs, a girl of only thirteen 
years of age, with Avhom I lived during my residence on 
the island. 

Great was the astonishment of the natives when they 
saw us kill a hog, or any other animal at a distance, 
with our gun ; and such was their fear of the pobohe^ as 
they termed it, that they would scarcely come near it, 
much less touch it ; this was a very happy circumstance 
for us, and we indulged them in their fear, hoping that 
by so doing, to retain the exclusive control of it our- 
selves, and thereby gain notoriety among them as war- 
riors. 

Each day we went to the battle field, but seldom 

would the enemy meet us there. One morning taking 

a quantity of junk lead, which we brought instead of 

balls, we cut it into small pieces, or slugs, intending to 

use two or three at a time : we proceeded to the battle 

field with only a few of the warriors. On our arrival 

we gave one yell or whoop, to apprise the enemy of our 

presence in the field. From the eminence we occupied, 
12 



134 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

we could overlook the valley of the Cohaphas. They 
wishing to appear as not at all fearful of us, commenced 
dancing, and singing loudly, still they dare not meet us 
in the field. 

- Noyce being the best marksman, took charge of the 
gun, while I carried the ammunition: as before re- 
marked, the gun was a very poor one, and would have 
been under other circumstances condemned as unfit for 
use. Oftentimes it could not be made to go oflf except I 
applied a torch to it while Noyce took aim. I usually 
carried fire with me in the husks of the cocoa-nut. We 
stole cautiously down the hill, until we were within 
reach of them. Secreting ourselves behind a bunch of 
reeds, we opened our fire upon them, gave them two or 
three charges, which made them dance still more lively. 
On the first discharge we wounded one man in the leg, 
who fell upon the ground, rolling and kicking around 
most violently, at the same time yelling loud enough to 
be heard half a mile ; the others, altogether ignorant of 
the cause, gathered around to learn it if possible ; this 
we demonstrated to them by the two succeeding shots, 
in a most lively manner, which caused them to yell still 
louder than before. Throwing the wounded upon their 
shoulders they fled with the greatest precipitancy; we 
followed closely with a few of our slugs, but were 
unable to reach them. 

On gaining the eminence occupied by our warriors, 
they were overjoyed at our success, falling at our feet 
in token of reverence, and on our return to the bay, 
most loudl}^ were our efforts extolled by them. 

Many days now passed without our seeing an enemy, 
though we visited the field nearly every day. At length 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 135 

they ventured to make another attack upon our bay on 
a bright moonlight night, at a late hour, probably sup- 
posing us all asleep, but Noyce being on watch, saw 
them cautiously approaching our shores, gave the 
alarm, and the whole tribe secreted themselves in the 
groves, and waited their approach ; when near enough, 
and in the right position, we gave them what is termed 
a raking shot ; finding themselves foiled in their at- 
tempt, they instantly turned and fled the harbor. So 
near were they, we could plainly see the destruction 
we had made ; three were wounded, one of them des- 
perately. So heavily was the gun loaded, that it came 
near killing Noyce, who was thrown with a great force 
upon the ground, by its violent kicking. This attempt 
though unsuccessful, altogether called out the power of 
the tribe, and they immediately set about preparing for 
a grand attack upon the Cohaphas. The preparation 
for the attack occupied several days ; spears and clubs 
were brought forward, and examined ; those unfit for 
use were broken and thrown aside, and others made to 
supply their place. The warriors decorated themselves 
with feathers, and other things in a most gaudy man- 
ner. All who were able to bear arms were called to 
prepare for the attack. When collected, they presented 
a sight truly imposing. ^' Their lofty head-dresses made 
of feathers, gleaming like helmets in the brightness of 
the sun, and tossing proudly in the wind, with the mo- 
tion of their bold gait, — their naked and brawny limbs, 
— their savage trappings, converted them for the mo- 
ment into seeming giants." 

The most hideously painted, and powerfully equipped 
North American Indian, would fail in a comparison 



136 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

with one of these, as a fearful and majestic warrior. 
They rushed forward with shouts of exultation and 
joy, exclaiming, in tones of heart-felt triumph, as they 
went rapidly through the action of an onset. — throwing 
themselves in every wild and threatening attitude, — 
scowling with looks of deathly fierceness and revenge, 
— ^brandishing their spears and clubs in the air. '' Co- 
kapha ^ Cohapha^ te hannah Muckey^ Cohapha^^^ or 
Death to the Cohaphas. 

We proceeded on the valley through which a small 
rivulet courses itself, which is thickly clustered ^^ with 
trees, whose lofty tops so thickly interlace each other, 
as to completely embower the whole glen ; and the rays 
of the torrid sun beneath which we had been marching, 
instead of striking us with a scorching glare, fell in such 
rich and grateful mellowness on the group below, as to 
seem but the moonlight of a fairy land; the illusion of 
which, the sound of water had but little tendency to 
break." 

Our army consisted of about three hundred able war- 
riors, armed with clubs and spears, all with eager strides 
rushing on to meet the enemy. We at length reached 
the top of the mountain which separates the two tribes, 
and which also constituted the battle ground. Until we 
arrived there, no regular order was observed. The 
warriors were then divided into three companies, or 
divisions, leaving Noyce and myself to act for ourselves. 
Again we crawled unobserved down the hill, till we 
came Avithin a few rods of the enemy. We loaded our 
gun as heavily as we dared do, putting seven slugs in 
it, meaning to do the principal work with the first shot, 
as they would probably retreat immediately, and not 



OF WILLLA.M TORREY. 137 

give us an opportunity of firing again. All things in 
readiness, we softly crept a few rods nearer, and, as 
they were standing close together, (in consultation no 
doubt respecting an engagement, as our men were seen 
upon the field,) we discharged our battery upon them. 
Great was the havoc we made with a single shot, kill- 
ing two and wounding three more. Amon'g the wounded 
was the celebrated chief, Cappayoho, noted among all 
tribes for his great daring and cunningness in battle. 

We returned to the point occupied by our men, who 
had watched our movements and saw the execution of 
our only shot. Meanwhile our warriors had succeeded 
in taking the persons of three of the enemy. This to 
them was true revenge : to simply kill was no revenge 
at all : that alone consisted in disjointing the enemy, 
and tearing the flesh from his bones by the morsel. 

We were held in great estimation among them as 
warriors. We returned to the valley with shouts and 
songs of triumph; those who were infirm, and unable 
to join in the battle, with the women and children, met 
us as we came near home, and joined in the exclamation 
of joy. 

As was often the case, Noyce and myself one day 
strolled far away from home into the mountain, taking 
our gun with us as a constant companion, when, wea- 
ried with walking in the noonday sun, w^e had retired 
beneath the shade of a large tree. I had seated myself 
upon a little rise of ground, while Noyce was standing 
by me in the attitude so common to huntsmen, viz., that 
of standing with his hands upon the gun, and resting 
his chin upon his hands, musing upon our situation and 

probable destiny, when our reverie was broken by the 
12^ 



138 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

sharp report of a gun near by. I sprang to my feet 
with my legs completely covered with blood. Noyce 
brought the gun into requisition for defence. Soon we 
saw the head of a native within a very few feet, peering 
up above the grass, in which he had secreted himself to 
catch a glimpse of us. Noyce discharged his gun im- 
mediately, and two slugs entered his head above the 
right eye, and came out at the back of the left ear; he 
died without a gasp. On arriving at him, we found he 
had a beautiful gun of French manufacture, of which I 
took possession. This occasioned great surprise with 
us, as we supposed we were in possession of the only 
gun on the island. Yie afterwards ascertained, however, 
that a French ship visiting the island, coming in upon 
the other side, for sandal wood, had sold ten or twelve 
to the different tribes ; only one, however, had been sold 
to the Cohaphas, and that to rather an obscure individ- 
ual who lived by himself in the mountain principally, 
yet considered himself as belonging to the Cohaphas. 
We made a knife of bamboo, Avith which we extracted 
the shot from my legs, or a portion of it ; some, how- 
ever, remains to the present time, and can still be felt. 

Raising the body upon our shoulders, we hastened 
to our tribe. When we made known our adventure, 
throwing down the body as proof before them, their joy 
knew no bounds. As a reward, the king gave us 
twenty-five trees each, banana and bread-fruit, which 
were by them considered quite a Avealth. 

The body, taken as it was, was considered worthy 
special manifestations of joy and triumph. Accordingly 
it was prepared for the feast; other necessaries were 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 139 

also furnishedj consisting of fruits and carver in great 
abundance. 

The stillness of the night was broken by the loud 
shouting, singingj &c. The body was taken from the 
oven and placed upon the table. The whole tribe set 
up a whoro whoro, or loud singing, which was echoed 
back from the hills like a thousand thunders. The war 
dance was performed, I think, with greater eagerness 
than ever before. Torches, made by stringing the amer 
nut on the stem of the cocoa-nut leaf, were placed 
around on all sides, rendering the whole scene as light- 
some as noonday. This continued till morning, when 
they dispersed. Of the grandeur of such a scene the 
reader can form no definite idea at all. however much 
the pen may labor in its description. 

About twelve months after our landing on the island, 
the ship Pacific, of Nantucket, came to anchor in our 
bay. Of those on board we obtained a supply of am- 
munition, giving in exchange our usual barter — hogs 
and fruit. At the expiration of thirteen days, the ship 
left the harbor, and we were again doomed to see our 
friends depart, leaving us behind on those desolate 
shores. 

When we first saw her sails before the breeze nearing 
our shore, Hope pointed us to it as a means of escape ; 
but in that we were doomed to disappointment, being 
most strictly watched by the natives. No pen can de- 
scribe with any degree of accuracy our feelings at that 
time, deserted as it were by our fellowmen, and shut 
out from the world, perhaps forever ! With a determi- 
nation to acquit ourselves as became our situation, we 



140 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

assumed an air of cheerfulness, and went about our 
business. 

The battle field was still visited ; but none had been 
taken or killed since the time of my being shot. One 
day a company of us were out getting carver ; we had 
secured a quantity, which we had fastened to our backs, 
and were returning, when, my load getting misplaced, 
I stopped to fix it; the others meanwhile continued 
slowly on. When I had adjusted my load and was 
starting, a huge hog, with open mouth, stood in my 
path. He gave one spring, or bound, and made for me^ 
Throwing off my carver, I ran a few rods, turned my 
eye back, found the hog following closely, and was evi- 
dently gaining upon me. I gave a loud whoop, which 
was answered by my companions. I could see no 
chance of escape from him except by jumping a preci- 
pice of about ninety feet, to which I found myself hast- 
ening. This I looked upon as almost certain destruc- 
tion ; but to be overtaken by the hog was sure death : 
thus having no alternative, I taxed my every nerve and 
rushed forward, gave a spring to carry me beyond the 
trees and points of rock which might be in the way. I 
landed in a cluster of tall reeds and grass which bent 
with my Aveight and eased me down without injury, 
save a few slight scratches. My first thought on land- 
ing was of the hog, whether he had also jumped ; but 
he wisely searched for other prey. 

To find my way back, over rocks, through briars and 
obstacles of all kinds, was no easy task, besides I was 
in much danger of being captured by some prowling 
Cohaphas. 

After much difficulty I succeeded in reaching the Bay 



CO 

o 

> 

W 
»^ 

w 
o 




OF WILLIAM TORRE Y. 143 

of Ooro, a small bay belonging to the Teheda, where I 
related my adventure with the hog, which caused a 
hearty laugh. Getting some refreshments, I started for 
home by a path which led over the bluff. As I entered 
the village, I was met by Noyce and the natives who 
had accompanied me in the morning. Great was their 
astonishment when they saw me, for they supposed by 
the whoop I gave that I had fallen into the hands of the 
Cohaphas, and had on that account given them an oppor- 
tunity of manifesting their cannibal joy over a fallen 
enemy. 

Great joy was manifested by other members of the 
tribe for my return. The sorcerer, or doctor, applied 
carver to my wounds, saying I should not be killed by 
a hog or a Cohapha, but should live to a good old age 
among the Teheda. If I had been killed by jumping 
the precipice, or had been devoured by the hog, they 
would have cared but little, in comparison with the idea 
of my falling a victim to the blood-thirsty Cohaphas. 

The war with the Cohaphas lasted nearly a year, 
when, one morning at a very early hour, a message 
came from them, saying the ''King of the Cohaphas 
wished for peace, for those veneies^ or devils, (as they 
called us,) were killing all the Cohaphas with their 
Pobohe." Our king drew himself up at full length, and 
Avith a significant expression of countenance said : " The 
King of the Cohaphas commenced ; the King of the 
Teheda will end. If he has done enough we will give 
him peace ; but if not — if he still thirsts for blood, we 
will kill all of them, as wedid the Whi's;" a tribe of that 
name who lived about two miles from us, who commit- 
ted some misdemeanor upx)n our tribe, at which the 



144 



LIFE AND ADVENTURES 



king became enraged, and in a single night killed them 
all, amounting to about 500. Their bodies were thrown 
in a pile, where their bones still whiten the sand. I 
have often visited the spot, which can trnly be called 
'^ the place of skulls." Bones of all sizes, from the ten- 
der infant who nestled in its mother's arms, to the stout, 
athletic warrior, are strewn upon the ground. The 
messenger returned to his king, and peace was estab- 
lished. 




OF WILLIAM TOREEY. 145 



CHAPTER IX. 

A visit from the Cohaphas. Our King wishes to learn the use of 
the gun. Abandons the idea. Arrival of Captain Fisher. His 
inhumanity. Is driven from the land. Manner of fishing. At- 
tempt to cultivate tobacco. Efficacy of the tabu law. A missionary 
ship arrives. Meetings are held. Unbelief of the natives. Narrow 
escape of the author. Conduct of Mr. Daylia. He is driven from 
the island. Another sail approaches. Recognition of the Captain. 
His conduct. Plan of escape. The king is deceived. The author 
leaves the island. Secretes himself. Is missed. His unpleasant 
situation. Joy at seeing the natives leave the ship. Reflec- 
tions. 

y^-^^-^""^ FEW days after, a number of the Cohaphas vis- 
^ 1^ ^ ited our valley, expressing a strong desire to 
^ /■ ^ ^^^ ^^^ Tehoury and their Pobohe. Among 
5 i[(i%j ^ them was the celebrated chief Cappayoho, who 
^.jyjyj^^p^ was still lame from the wound he had received 
from our slugs. When we came before him, he looked 
upon us with perfect astonishment, turned us around 
again and again, asking many questions respecting 
ourselves, our country, and the use of our pobohe. A 
large hog was brought in and roasted, and a sumptuous 
feast given, of which all partook, forgetting all feelings 
of enmity. 

One day our king expressed a strong desire to learn 
the use of the gun, and asked me to show him. Not 
liking the idea of it, being fearful we should not only 
lose the gun, but the reputation we then sustained from 

oar success with it, I resolved to fix him so that he 
13 



146 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

would abandon the thought of it. I accordingly put in 
a powerful charge, and gave him the gun. He with 
great confidence brought it to his shoulder, and dis- 
charged it. So powerful was it that it threw him upon 
the ground Avith great force. He sprang to his feet, 
exclaiming in great rage — ^^ Kekeno iehoury V^ I as- 
sured him he did not hold it right, and then loaded it 
for myself and discharged it without harm. That served 
to convince him. He declared he would never touch 
the thing again, and did not during my stay there. 

The war having closed, left us without any particular 
way of spending our time, except getting our supply of 
fruits for living; this done, time passed heavily. Often 
we would retire to the groves or ^some secluded spot, 
where, shut out from the world as it were, we would 
sing some lively song, which would call to our minds 
most vividly the scenes of other days. Home, with all 
its allurements, would rush before us, and our untold 
grief could scarcely be borne. Suddenly some native 
would come upon us, perhaps when we were weeping, 
when we would feign that degree of contentedness which 
made them believe we were truly so. 

At length the cry oimoco nid^ a large ship, resounded 
through the valley. This we fancied was the time for 
our deliverance from this place. She stood abreast the 
harbor, taking in her light sails ; the boats were lowered 
and came towards the shore ; when v/ithin hailing dis- 
tance they asked for permission to land. This the king, 
through me, granted. Returning to the ship, they stood 
into the harbor and came to anchor. The females swam 
to the ship, and, before the sails could be furled, the 
decks were literally full of them. 



OF WILLIAM TOR KEY. 147 

She proved to be the ship Pocahontas, Capt. Fisher, *^ 
of Sag Harbor. The captain coming on shore, I ac- 
quainted him with our situation, and re'quested his in- 
terference in our behalf He, with a great degree of 
indifference, offered to take us away if we would get 
the king's full consent; ihis he knew we could not do. 
I then asked him for clothing? His reply was: 

'•I do not carry clothes around for such miserable 
fellows as you are ;" and furthermore, he had none ex- 
cept those needed for the use of the ship's crew; yet he 
offered to sell me some, provided I would pay him in 
American currency. I could only offer him the usual 
commodity of the island — hogs, &c. These, he said, 
he could buy of the natives with a few scraps of old 
iron. 

His casks were already on shore for water, and he 
was trying to get the natives to fill them. I went to the 
king and told him he was a kekeno tehoury, (bad white 
man,) and that he was going to get water and hogs 
without pay, and advised him to drive them from the 
harbor. The king at this became greatly enraged, and 
called together the tribe, or many of them, ordered Capt. 
Fisher to leave the island immediately, and not to land 
their boats again. 

The casks were rolled into the water, the natives 
followed up closely with clubs and spears, ready to force 
them away, should they offer resistance or in any way 
retard their operations. The next morning they weighed 
anchor and left our harbor, without being able to get 
either water or provisions. 

As fishing was one of the ways in^ which we spent 



148 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

our time, I purpose here giving an account of the man- 
ner in which fish are caught : 

When a school of porpoises enter the harbor, notice 
is given to the tribe, who^ armed with stones, immedi- 
ately resort to the water ; some on each side rush into 
the water, beating the stones together beneath the sur- 
face. The porpoises becoming frightened, flee before 
their pursuers and are driven upon the beach, where 
they are killed by the old men and boys with clubs. — 
They are then taken to their huts, and hung up by a 
cord of bark run through the tail. From these they 
daily feast, until they rot and fall from their hanging 
place. 

Smaller fish are taken by nets, made of the cords of 
bark. These nets are about twenty feet across the top 
or mouth ; they are sunk below the water's surface by 
stones placed in the bottom and attached to several 
boats, stationed at regular points about, by cords. The 
natives then swim around on all sides, and at a given 
signal swim towards the boats, beating stones together. 
The fish frightened on all sides, flee to the least danger- 
ous point, which is in the vicinity of the net ; the net is 
then raised to the surface, oftentimes catching a barrel 
or two at a time. The females seldom join in catching 
fish, and never unless by special permission. 

Finding a plant much resembling tobacco, I thought 
I would try to cultivate it, hoping to improve it, and 
accordingly set out a number of plants. These the hogs 
destroyed. When I supplied their place, I bargained 
with a native to build a stone wall around the patch, 
which was about fifteen feet square, for a half head of 
tobacco. When the wall was done I paid him. He 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 149 

seemed not altogether satisfied with the bargain ; he left 
the hut and went directly to the spot and tore the wall 
down. I informed the king, hoping he would make 
him rebuild it. The king seized his ckib and ran every 
foot to the house in which he lived. As he with the 
other members of the family were seated at their evening 
repast, he rushed in and gave him a heavy blow with 
the club, completely severing the head in twain, and the 
brains and blood flew around upon those who sat with 
him. The king then ordered his brother to take the 
body and put it in a certain hole in the rocks, where the 
tide as it ebbed and flows would wash it. Had I sup- 
posed such would have been the case, I should not have 
informed the king of him. 

My wife knowing the treachery of the tribe, also 
hearing their threats, put me on my guard. 

Several times they attempted me harm, but I evaded 
them. 

One night while we vv'ere quietly reposing on our 
beds of leaves, with the amer nut light burning by my 
side, a spear was forced through the side of the hut and 
lodged within a few inches of my body. I sprang to 
my feet, put out my light, and remained on the watch 
the remainder of the night. 

The next morning I carried the spear to the king, 
who called the tribe together, and holding up the spear, 
called upon the owner to come for it; but no one ap- 
peared. Then in the presence of the whole tribe he put 
me and my household under the tabu law, which effec- 
tually shielded me from all harm. However great their 
anger or the desire to kill me might have been, none 
dare lay the finger of harm upon me. Thus to their 



150 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

heathenish superstition I owed my life, for such was 
their anger that no law save that would have deterred 
them from reeking their vengeance upon me. 

This however did not heal the wound, or cause the 
wave of forgetfulness to sweep over the affair, as there 
was always, during my stay on the island, a sort of 
hatred existing with the members of that family toward 
me, though they dare not manifest it. 

Again a heavy sail was seen approaching our shores. 
We dare not look forward to an opportunity of escape, 
so often had we been doomed to disappointment. 

As she came into the harbor and dropped her anchor, 
we thought we could notice less confusion than usually 
attended ships on coming to anchor. 

The king requested Noyce and myself to go with 
him to the ship. He had never before allowed us to do 
that. 

On reaching the ship we crawled up her sides, and 
jumped over the bulwark, when we found ourselves, 
naked as when born, before two or three English ladies. 
We instantly jumped overboard, seized a canoe and 
pulled for the shore, when, Adam-like, we procured 
leaves and made aprons for ourselves. This proved a 
Missionary ship, sent from Otaheite, under the direction 
of an English missionary, named Daylia, who had long 
resided there, to estabhsh a station, which he intended 
leaving in charge of two gentlemen, Messrs. Bingham 
and Morris, who with their wives had come thither for 
that purpose. 

Soon Mr. Daylia, Mr. Bingham and the captain came 
upon the shore, and after learning the reason of our be- 
ing there, &c.. inquired of the general character of the 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 151 

natives, and of our views of the proposed idea of estab- 
lishing a station there. Knowing as we did of the 
hatred with which they were accustomed to look upon 
all not belonging to their own tribe, especially should 
they diifer from them, we said much to dissuade them 
from the attempt. Perhaps however we were influenced 
more by feelings of selfishness, which might arise from 
the nature of our situation among them, than otherwise. 
And in such a light it was viewed by Mr. Daylia, who 
reprimanded me in a manner not at all becoming the 
dignity of his station. From that moment Mr. Daylia 
looked upon me as upon a person bearing his dislike, 
not to say hatred. 

Notwithstanding our efforts to have them relinquish 
the idea of remaining, they moved some of their effects 
on shore, among them were a bull and cow, without 
permission, and took possession of an uninhabited hut 
near the tabu ground. 

This greatly incensed the king against them, and had 
I not interfered, he would have driven, not only the 
animals, but the people from his shores entirely. At 
any rate he would not have the animals there, and 
ordered them removed immediately, or he would kill 
them. They were accordingly taken to the ships again. 

They brought the females on shore and commenced 
building a house on the tabu ground ; the king watch- 
ing every movement, forbid their proceeding, and asked 
them by what authority they entered upon his con- 
secrated grounds. Mr. Daylia replied, ^' By the Lord's 
authority." The king significantly said the Lord had 
nothing to do with the tabu ground, and again forbid 
their building there. 



152 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

They persisting in staying, the king told them they 
might do so while they remained at peace with the 
other tribes, but should a war break out, they would be 
tattooed, or driven from the land. 

Meetings were held each day, which Noyce and 
myself generally attended, at the request of the mission- 
aries, as an example to the natives. 

The Otaheitean and Marquisian languages are so near- 
ly alike they could converse without an interpreter. 
r Daylia, in one of his meetings, said much about the 
good land and a bad land, telling them if they would 
be good and pray they would go to the good land, when 
they died. This he explained in a manner suited to 
their understanding. One of the chiefs jumped up 
and asked if the missionary who died at Nukuhi- 
vah (an English missionary who died about two 
years before) had gone to that good land. Mr. Daylia 
assured them he had, when, unwilling to believe it, 
they sent four men to that island, (about fifty miles) 
to get some of the bones. At the expiration of five or 
six days they returned, bringing bones with them; and 
at the next meeting, when Daylia was again telling of 
the good land, they set up a shouting, calling him a liar 
and showed him the bones. They told him he had 
been driven from his own land and had come to live 
with them, and he might stop preaching about his good 
land and his bad land, for they would not believe him. 
In vain were his remonstrances with them. They told 
him if he would climb a lofty cocoa-nut tree, which 
stood near, and jump among the rocks unhurt, they 
V^^ould believe him. 

Still he held his meetings, but not with any degree of 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 153 

pleasantness, for the natives were as likely to set up a 
war dance as any thing else. 

This was imputed to me by Mr. Dayua. who threat- 
ened to send me to England and have me severely pun- 
ished. His threats I did not heed very much, though I 
should have been extremely glad to have been sent 
there. 

One morning, at an early hour, going as usual to 
bathe, I met a servant of Mr. Daylia, who was a native 
of Otaheite, with an axe upon his shoulder. Having 
before been on good terms with him, I smilingly passed 
the compliment of the morning, {Kaoha, good morning) 
and was passing on. Accidentally turning my eye, I 
saw the axe uplifted, and aimed at my head. I fell 
upon my knees and evaded the blow. With earnest- 
ness I sprang and caught it, having one hand at the 
head and the other at the end of the helve, before he 
could again raise it. 

Pulling hard as if to get possession of it, at the same 
time wrestling about, I brought the edge towards 
him, he also pulling with his might in endeavoring to 
hold it, when I suddenly relaxed my hold, still holding 
on the handle, drove the edge into his face, running 
obliquely across the nose. This was repeated twice, 
when he fell yelling most lustily. 

His cries brought the missionary and many of the 
natives, with the king and second chief, to the spot. 

I told Dayha if that, with the treatment he had given 
me, was an illustration of his preaching, he had better 
stay at home than go to the heathen, professedly to preach 
peace and salvation, while he practiced such horrid di- 
eressions. 



154 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

The servant declared he was doing his master's bid- 
ding. This was stoutly contradicted by Daylia. Still 
I was led by the former friendship which had existed 
between us, and the previous conduct of Daylia, to be- 
lieve the statement of the servant in preference to that 
of his. 

The king then ordered them to leave the island that 
day or he would kill them all. Daylia taking up a lit- 
tle child of one of the missionaries, said in a half sneer- 
ing manner, ''Would you kill this innocent one?" 
*' Yes,*' says the king, '' a nit will be a louse." 

Their goods were taken to the ship, and every pre- 
paration made to leave the island; Daylia, however, 
taking the opportunity to say to me that I might expect 
to be sent for from England to answer for my conduct, 
accusing me of influencing the king against them. 

This was not the fact ; and, to the contrary, had I 
not interfered in their behalf, they would have been 
killed in the early part of their adventure. 

Still I did not favor the idea of their remaining very 
much, knowing the utter impracticability of such an 
■undertaking with the then existing state of the inhab- 
itants. Had such an enterprise been in the least degree 
practicable, we should have been foolish indeed not to 
have welcomed them with joy, as our situation would 
thereby have been greatly improved, if our escape had 
not been effected by it. 

It was painful, indeed, to see them depart, especially 
so, as far as Messrs. Bingham and Morris were con- 
cerned, for, towards them we had formed the strongest 
attachment. 



OF WILLIAM TOEREV. 155 

On the morning of the next day they weighed anchor 
and left the harbor. 

Twice since this time have the missionaries attempt- 
ed to form a station there, and as many times been de- 
feated. Once the French Cathohcs, with an armed 
force, attempted to drive them to repentance and rehgion 
at the point of the bayonet, but the missionaries and 
soldiers were massacred, and the sailors driven from the 
harbor. 

After the missionaries left the harbor, time passed still 
more heavily than before. A month or two elapsed 
without our having much to do. 

One day while seated oa a high bluff overlooking 
the sea, watching for some distant sa,il, there I sat with 
anxious, straining eyes till near nightfall, when I dis- 
cerned a speck in the distance, dancing upon the wave. 
I watched its course until it ripened into perfect form, 
giving the beautiful proportion of a large ship. With 
great eagerness I watched it until night closed it. from 
my sight. Wondering whether she was destined to land 
at our shores, I returned to the valley and gave notice 
to the king of its approach. 

The next morning I, with my wife, at a very early 
hour, went to bathe, and saw the ship heading towards 
the harbor. The king and other natives soon joined 
us, all with straining eyes watching the ship. 

On its nearer approach the king asked me if I would 
take charge of the ship if he would kill all the crew 
and take possession of her. This I refused to do, say- 
ing our countrymen would come there in great numbers 
and kill us. He, shaking his head, said, '- if they will 
kill you, what would they do to us ? we will not touch 



166 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

f them.'^ They suppose all ships and crews, like them- 
selveSj belong to some great king; and if any crew 
commits any wrong upon them, and they cannot be re- 
venged upon the aggressors themselves, they will upon 
the next ship that comes there, believing one common 
head suffers or bears the loss. This is the reason, gen- 
erally, that innocent crews have been murdered so cru- 
Lelly by them, without any seeming provocation. 

The ship entered the harbor and dropped her anchor. 
The boats came to land with the captain and others. 
At first sight I thought I recognized in the person of the 
captain, a friend of other days. This idea was strength- 
ened much by hjparing the crew address him as " Capt. 
Coleman."' ;. 

I immediately stepped up and asked him if he ever 
sailed in the brig Henry. He assured me he had. I 
then, looking him steadily in the eye, asked, ^'do you 
know me, sir?" Looking at me a moment steadily, he 
said,/' yes. Bill! though your sunburnt countenance 
and savage connections almost bid defiance to the recog- 
nition." How I came there in that horrible place, with 
that outlandish crew, and what I could be doing, ex- 
ceedingly puzzled him. 

I chatted with him some time. The king noticing a 
spirit of familiarity existing with us, stood by with 
more than common watchfulness, and at every few 
words, would say, yahah? (what says he?) I told 
him at each inquiry that he wanted hogs and water, or 
in some other way quieted him. 

Finding it useless to attempt a conversation at that 
time, he went back to the ship and sent two rafts of 
casks to the shore for water. These I bargained with 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 157 

the natives to fill for hinij paying them in whales' teeth, 
tobacco, &c. He also purchased a quantity of hogs, 
fruit, &c., of the natives, always paying them as much 
certainly, as he promised to do. Besides, he made them 
many presents of small, and to him, valueless articles, 
though they esteemed them very highly. This won 
their affections completely, and he was allowed to go 
where and when he pleased. By this means we were 
enabled to get together often and form a plan by which 
he could assist me in getting away, which was to go on 
board as the land breeze sprang up. I told him repeat- 
edly of the sad consequences that would most assuredly 
follow to himself and crew, as well as to me, should 
we be detected in the act. But that did not in the least 
degree deter him from making the attempt. What a 
noble contrast between this captain, who was willing to 
run the risk of his life, and the lives of his noble crew, 
to assist me to escape, and the heartless wretch of the 
Pocahontas, who refused to let me have any thing un- 
less I would pay him in American currency, which he 
well knew I had not ; at the same time he was in 
want of hogs, &c., which I could furnish him with, and 
which he chose rather to obtain from the simple natives 
with a piece of old valueless hoop iron; thus depriving 
me of useful articles which my necessities required. 

The afternoon previous to the departure of the ship, 
the captain spent on shore with us, and when he left to 
go on board 1 shook hands with him, as if never to see 
him again, telling him to cause a statement of our sit- 
uation to be made to our friends, which he promised to 
do. 

He went to his ship — manned the windlass — hove 
U 



158 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

short the cable and mast-headed the top-sail yard. The 
natives seeing it, asked yahah hannah hannah moro^ 
(or, what are they doing there?) I told them they were 
heaving short and getting ready to leave the harbor. 
The king asked me then if I wished to leave the island 
and go with them. I with an outburst of laughter, as 
if perfectly astonished at the question, said loudly, I 
did not. I was then asked why. I referred him to my 
wife and the happy manner in which I lived. At this 
he seemed greatly delighted. 

Often have I heard it asserted that falsehoods were 
never justifiable, and that the truth is best in all cases. 
Should those who most loudly proclaim such views, be 
thus situated, I fear their theory and practice would 
differ very much. Never have I met a man, I think, 
who would under those circumstances adhere strictly 
to the truth, and thereby lose his opportunity of getting 
away. 

We walked away to my hut where the king and sec- 
ond chief sat and chatted with me till the evening was 
far advanced. They went to their homes perfectly sat- 
isfied that I did not wish to go, at least, I thought so, 
and I was certain I weighed each word and lopk well. 
I went to bed and had a lengthy talk with my wife 
about the ship's leaving the shore and of my unwilling- 
ness to go. I remained talking till near midnight, when 
feigning sickness I got up and walked out. 

On the beach I found an old native, who seemed some- 
what surprised at my presence, as well as I at his, for I 
feared a watch was kept. Chatting with him awhile, 
I was satisfied all things were right. Together we went 
back to the huts. His being first, I saw him go in, 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 159 

when I went home, and as the land breeze had not yet 
sprung up. went to bed. I lay a short time in the high- 
est state of excitement, when I heard a rustling in the 
trees, which 1 knew was a signal for me to start. 

I lay some moments scarce able to raise myself, for 
fear had taken fast hold of me, — I knew not but some 
wiley native had discovered something in me which 
excited them and a watch was kept. If such were 
really the case, most horrible would be its results. 

I was half inclined to abandon the project. Knowing 
that if this most favorable opportunity passed I might 
not see another, hope bade me make the trial. 

I was soon upon the beach, shoved off a canoe, and 
was getting in when I found there were no paddles. 
For a moment I gave up the idea, when recollecting 
that I had seen some broken ones a few days previous, 
lying behind an uninhabited hut, thither I repaired, 
greatly fearing the dogs would give the alarm ; I ob- 
tained the paddles and was again at the boat. 

No person can form any idea of the wretchedness of 
my situation, as I looked around to see if danger was 
near. 

The moon which had before shone brightly, had re- 
tired behind the bluff as if unwilling to bear witness to 
the affair. I soon reached the ship, seized hold of the 
ropes, which hang over the ship's side for the purpose, 
and putting my shoulders under the main chains, sank 
my canoe, and jumped on board, not daring to look be- 
hind lest I should find myself pursued. 

As was previously arranged, there was but one man 
on board who saw me, who was Mr. BlifBn, the mate, 
the others being below, knowing nothing of my being 



160 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

there, so that should the natives miss me and come on 
board, ttiey could not betray me by any emotions of 
fear. 

Without speaking to Mr. Bliffin I went immediately 
to the captain's room, from thence I secreted myself in 
the run or after part of the vessel, under a pile of rub- 
bish. 

The sailors were called and every effort made to quit 
the harbor immediately. We had scarcely moved from 
her berth, when by the noise and bustle about the ship, 
I was satisfied the natives were aboard. Soon I heard 
them nearing me, and could distinctly distinguish their 
voices. Among them was the first chief who said, '^let 
us be off*, for he is not here ; if he had been they would 
not have let us looked." 

The captain pretended not to understand them when ' 
they came to the ship, and it was a long time before he 
could, at the same time he was crowding all sail and 
getting as far out as possible. Believing I was not 
there, they left the ship and paddled for the shore. Soon 
as they had gone the captain called me from my hiding 
place and took me on deck, to the great astonishment of 
the crew. 

There were about forty came on board. Great was 
the delight with which I looked on them as they were 
gaining the shore ; and while I was overjoyed at my 
own escape, I could not but look back upon the wretch- 
edness and misery of Noyce, who was left behind en- 
tirely ignorant of what had become of me. 

Whether I was captured and killed by some one who 
might have an ill will towards me, or had escaped on 
board the ship, were alike matters of consideration with 



OF WILLUM TOREEY. 161 

him, for I had left him entirely ignorant of my plans, 
as 1 knew I must in order to effect my own escape. 

Many who may favor me with reading my simple 
narrative will no doubt censure me for so doing, but 
should they be situated as I was, knowing the utter im- 
possibility for both to escape, they would, I think, find 
the love of self, naturally strong as it is in man, point- 
ing them to the same course I pursued. To go and 
leave him was indeed painful in the extreme, but had 
he been thus favored by the visit of a friend who was 
willing to run the risk of his life in taking him away, 
and he had thus effected his escape, I think I could only 
have thought him acting right, however much I might 
deplore my loss. 

The first kind offer of the captain as I came on 
board was to give me clothes to cover my nakedness. 
Awkward, indeed, I felt as well as acted, when clothed 
again, having been naked eighteen months. And as I 
tasted of the salt meats and other articles found on ship 
board, cooked so different from what I had been accus- 
tomed to so long, I could scarcely eat them. 




14* 



162 LIFE AND ADVExNTURES 



CHAPTER X. 

Description of the Whale Fishery . Being again on board a whale ship , 
1 propose giving my readers a brief description of the Whale, and 
of the manner of capturing them. 

^^HERE are a number of varieties of whales; 



p Tip I the three principal of which are the common 
? <M ? Greenland, or what sailors call the right 
InAaaaJ whale, the ^'razorback" or -^finner;" and, 
thirdly, the cachelot or sperm whale. These three va- 
rieties do not differ very essentially in their general 
structure, though each has its peculiarities. The com- 
mon full grown right whale varies in length from fifty 
to seventy feet Many exaggerated notions are held 
respecting the size of the whale. Writers of standard 
works of history have stated that they were frequently 
found an hundred and fifty or sixty feet in length ; and 
that they had been found even of the extreme length of 
two hundred and fifty feet. But such is not the fact ; 
they seldom will exceed the length above stated, and 
measure round the body, directly behind the head, from 
thirty to forty feet. The head is of great size, and oc- 
cupies one third of the whole extent from snout to tail. 
The greatest circumference of the body is just back of 
the head, whence it tapers sharply away towards the 
tail. The mouth of the whale is extremely large and 
long, and will admit, when opened wide, a whaleboat 
with its crew, if placed crosswise of the jaw, — cases 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 163 

have been known where the whole length of a boat has 
thus been taken in. The animal has no fin upon the 
backj and the two side fins are five or six feet broad, 
and nine or ten feet in length. The tailor ^-flukes," 
as the seamen term it, is some twenty-five feet broad, 
in the shape of a crescentj and is appended horizontally. 
This is a dangerous and powerful instrument with 
which the whale often deals destruction to men and 
boats, or whatever chances to be in the way during 
what the sailors term her '^ flurry ^^ or when she is in 
the agonies of death. Boats are frequently thrown high 
into the air, and broken into ten thousand pieces by a 
stroke from the whale's •• flukes." The eyes of the 
whale are not larger than those of an ox, — the color of 
the body is mainly black; the under part of the head 
and abdomen partly white, and partly of a speckled 
gray. The two spout-holes of the ^' right" whale are 
on the top of the head, and descend perpendicular into 
it for the length of twelve inches or so to the windpipe. 
The throat is quite small ; an inch and a half is the ex- 
treme diameter of the gullet in the largest right whales. 
The food of these whales is, of course, of a very minute 
nature; they feed upon a multitude of smaller inhab- 
itants of the ocean ; and the mouth is provided with a 
remarkable apparatus, composed of numerous whale- 
bones extending from the centre of the arch to the lips, 
tapering away into mere bristles, and forming a kind 
of fringe, by Avhich means the small particles of food 
are retained ; not so with the sperm whale ; they are 
distinguished by having teeth in the lower jaw, and but 
one spout-hole on the upper part of the snout. The 
sperm whale attains to a great size ; sometimes reach- 



164 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

ing the length of eighty feet; the head is of enormous 
bulk, and ends abruptly in front. It has a small hump 
like a camel on the back ; and the side fins are also of 
small size ; they generally have from forty to fifty teeth 
which fit into cavities in the upper jaw. 

In this whale the gullet is large enough to admit a 
man; and the food is large fish, principally ^^ squid J ^ 
A fine oil is obtained from the head of the sperm whale 
called spermaceti, and from its intestines ambergris. 
The sperm whale's spout can be seen at the distance of 
three miles, and is easily distinguished. This whale 
does not produce as much oil as the other variety, but 
it is much more valuable ; they fight fiercely among 
themselves, locking jaws with one another, and exerting 
themselves in the most powerful manner; but they do 
not attack a boat or man, and are easily frightened 
away. They are fond of their young, and of one 
another, and will commonly remain near to a wounded 
companion. They have the ability, on noticing any 
object, to communicate intelligence to their companions 
four or five miles — though the manner in which this is 
done remains a secret. It is often seen to leap entirely 
out of water for the purpose, as is supposed, to rid 
themselves of crabs and sucking-fish which are fond of 
fastening upon their bodies. This act is termed by the 
sailors '^ breaching ^ The swordfish and others fre- 
quently attack the whale with the utmost audacity. 

I have given my readers a brief account of some of 
the general features and peculiarities of the whale ; and 
I shall now proceed to describe briefly the manner of 
catching them. No species of fishing can compare in 
interest with the whale-fishery. The magnitude of the 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 165 

object of the chase, and the perilous character of the 
seas which it pecuHarly frequents, are features which 
prominently distinguish the profession of the whale- 
fisher from all similar pursuits. Before proceeding to 
the account of capturing one of these monsters, I will 
speak of the whaleboat and its appurtenances used for 
the purpose. 

The whaleboat is from twenty-two to thirty feet in 
length, and is provided with five or six oars. It is so 
formed as to float lightly on the water, move with 
speed, and turn easily round. The best are composed 
of straight, one-half inch cedar boards, ruppled and 
bent to the required shape, by which means their elas- 
ticity is greatly increased — the rapid and dangerous 
movements of the whale render these various qualities 
indispensable. The principal weapons with which the 
whale-fishery are supplied are the harpoon and lance. 
The harpoon is an instrument about three feet long, 
composed of iron, and consists of three conjoined parts 
— the socket, shank, and withers or barbs. Much at- 
tention is paid to the manufacture of the shank of the 
harpoon because on its flexibility the retention of a har- 
pooned whale depends. If the shank should break 
during the plunges of the whale, the animal is lost. 
The lance is a more simple instrument; it is about ten 
feet long, and has a sharp flat point or tongue of steel 
seven inches long. This instrument and the harpoon, 
together with lines and boat, are all the apparatus ac- 
tually necessary for capturing a v/hale. 

On the ship reaching the fishing ground, preparations 
are immediately made for commencing the business of 
capture. Three or four boats are always kept sus- 



166 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

pended from the cranes, by the side of the ship, in such 
a position that they can be lowered into the water with 
their complement of men and the whole necessary ap- 
paratus, in the space of one minute. 

Previously to this time the harpoons and line have 
been got in order. The socket of the harpoon is fur- 
nished with a stock or handle, six or eight feet long, 
and fastened in its place by means of a sphce of strong 
rope called a foreganger. To this is attached five or 
six fathoms of line, called the stray line; and this is 
connected Avith the other lines of the boat, neatly coiled 
up in each boat, and about 4300 feet of rope, made of 
the best hemp, and about two and a half inches in cir- 
cumference. A hatchet, bucket, and a few other arti- 
cles, are put into the boat. - 

When on the fishing ground, a man is kept constantly 
at the mast-head on the look out for whales, and to 
give the notice to the men on deck of the appearance of 
one upon the surface — which he does by crying out 
^^ there she blows ^"^ or ^^ there she spouts ^'^^ which is re- 
sponded to by the captain on deck, who inquires ^^xohere 
awayP The direction being ascertained, one or more 
of the boats are lowered, manned by the respective 
crews of each to row out, and if necessary give chase 
to the whale — every boat eager to reach him first. 
There is much competition between the different boats 
to see which shall first '' fasten," or get a harpoon into 
the whale; and this is sometimes carried to such ex- 
treme length, that the unfortunate rear boat, seeing no 
chance of success themselves, will throw every obstacle 
in the way of the other to prevent their securing the 
whale ; and sometimes go so far even as to purposely 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 167 

frighten the whale away — thus seriously injuring the 
interest of the owners as well as the whole crew. But 
this is not allowed in well disciplined ships; for there 
the officer who goes in each boat is required to guard 
against it. 

The boats pull on. and as they approach the whale 
they see him spouting more slowly. This is a signal 
that he is soon going down, and for them to hasten if 
they would secure him. The successful boat shoots 
alongside. ^'Peak your oar!" exclaims the officer to 
the harpooner — the order is obeyed. '' Stand up," con- 
tinues the officer: and the glistening harpoon is seen 
above the head of the harpooner, who instantly darts it 
with unerring force and aim, and it is buried deeply in 
the side of the gigantic creature. ^' Stern all^'^ cries 
the master, and every man bends his whole strength to 
the oar, and the boat is rapidly backed from the whale's 
side. Now the pained whale plunges, and lashes the 
sea in a most terrific manner — the noise of which may 
be heard for miles. Suddenly he disappears, drawing 
the line out rapidly after him; many hundred fathoms 
are run out before the whale again makes his appear- 
ance on the surface, which he generally does some- 
where in the vicinity, in a very much exhausted state, 
owing to the loss of blood, and his violent exertions to 
escape the harpoon by plunging furiously to the depths 
of the sea. He is usually absent about the space of 
thirty minutes before he rises again to the surface, and 
then the boat is run rapidly up to him, and the heads- 
man buries his lance in the vitals of the trembling 
monster. He is now made desperately furious, — the 
lance is again driven into his side; his motions become 



168 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

wild and irregular; and, after what is called the mortal 
flurry, he turns over on his side, and dies. The 
Leviathan of the deep is conquered ! He is now towed 
to the ship, and there firmly secured by ropes. Then 
comes the process of what whalemen call ^* Cutting in," 
which is the separating and securing the fat or blubber 
of the whale. It is effected in the following manner : 

The man appointed for the purpose, with stockings 
on his feet to prevent from slipping, leaps upon the 
body, and, secures a piece of about a foot and a half 
wide, which has been flayed up near the head, to a 
heavy purchase which is worked in board, men stand- 
ing on deck with blubber knives, cut it while others 
work away at the purchase which rolls the body over 
as the blubber is removed. It is taken on deck, and 
cut in pieces fit for the pots, when it is tried out, and 
put in casks. After the bone has been secured, the 
carcase is allowed to sink. 




OF WILLIAM TOERET. 169 



CHAPTER XI. 

Speak several vessels. Massacre at Keppell's Island. Touch at the 
Duke of York's Island. Find a tomb. Electrical eel. Conduct 
of a negro, who makes much sport. Land Lobster. Land at 
Cohannah. Improper conduct of the captain. A storm off Hawaii. 
Anchor at Honohilu. Its description. Scenes on shore. Sports 
of the surf. Arrival at Sir Francis Drake's Bay. Scenes on 
shore. Cruise about the different islands. Proposed mutiny. The 
author leaves the ship. 

y^wmAg E spoke the Aramata, of New London, 









which was then steering for the Marquesas, 
==*^ ^ where she was intending to get water and 
/vAAA^ provisions. They informed us of the recent 
massacre of the whole crew except a boy, of an English 
ship at Keppell's Island. The Aramata touched there 
for wood and water, and after dropping the anchor low- 
ered away and pulled for the shore ; when they came 
near the beach their landing was prohibited. The beach 
was filled with natives, who were armed with spears 
and clubs which they brandished about, going through 
with every warlike gesture. They signified to them 
their reception would be far from a pleasant one. 

They put back to the ship, but still remained in the 
harbor, it being so near night. Soon the boy who was 
saved from the massacre came upon the beach and cau- 
tioned them about the natives, for they were determined 
to kill every person who should land there. 

He was then suddenly snatched away by the natives. 
15 



170 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

From what they could learn from the boy, they were 
induced to be on their guard. About midnight a num- 
ber of canoes were seen to pull towards them. All 
hands were called, and arms put in readiness. As they 
came stealthily along and had almost reached the vessel, 
they gave them the contents of their six guns and two 
pistols, which sent them yelUng towards the shore. 
This single shot served their entire defeat. 

We parted with the Aramata, being unwilling to re- 
turn to the Marquesas with them. 

About a week after, we spoke the bark James Calvin, 
of London, returning from Keppell's Island, with the 
boy. Capt. Coleman lowered away his boat with its full 
complement of men, harpoons, lines and lances, and 
went on board of her, while the mate of the James 
Calvin, with his boat, crew, and apparatus, came on 
board our ship. This is the way ships usually meet at 
sea. From them we learned the full particulars of the 
massacre. 

Soon as she heard of it she resolved to go to the islaud, 
and at all hazards take the boy away. As they entered 
the harbor several of the natives came to the ship ; they 
suffered them to go aboard, treated them well, gave 
them many presents, which won their good feelings. 
As they were about leaving, the captain told them, 
(through a native of the Sandwich Islands who could 
talk with them.) that the king of the Sandv/ich Islands 
had sent many presents to their king, which he could 
get by coming on board the next day. The next morn- 
ing the king came on board, and, as w^as desired, the 
boy was brought with him, who was among the first 
who came. Soon as the boy was fairly on board, the 



OF WILLIAM TORUEY. 171 

crew rushed upon the unsuspecting natives, and drove 
what few had come on board over into the sea. Bearing 
full, they left the harbor. 

The boy's story was simply as follows : 

The ship came into the harbor, where she lay, the 
captain thinking to go on shore the next morning. — 
About midnight the natives came upon it in so still a 
manner, that the watch upon deck did not hear thtm. 
Those they killed, and as the others attempted to come 
above they were killed also. The whole crew except 
six men and the boy were killed on board: these were 
taken on shore, and the men killed. 

The boy was saved by an old woman who took a 
great liking to him. The bodies of those killed on board 
were brought on shore, and eaten with the others. All 
articles of value were taken ojff, and the ship burned. 

Parting with the James Calvin, we stood for the Duke 
of York's Island, taking on our way one small whale 
and three black fish. 

Arriving at the island, we lowered away and went 
on shore, taking our guns with us. We shot many 
birds of different kinds, among them was one called a 
Mingo, a large and beautiful bird; the back and top of 
his wings were a dark gray, the under part of the body 
and wings were a bright red. While sailing over our 
heads he presented a most beautiful appearance. 

We saw no marks of cultivation whatever upon the 
island, there being nothing but a long, low, sandy beach, 
with here and there a grove of cocoa-nuts and palm 
trees. We rowed around two or three miles, and found 
a little harbor with a beautiful white coral beach. A 
short distance from the shore we found a mound, which 



172 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

was evidently the resting-place of some person whom 
Fate appointed to die at that desolate place. 

This was made by laying a wall of stone about seven 
feet long and two wide, being about fifteen inches high. 
The stones were laid very closely together, so as to keep 
out the land lobsters and crabs that swarmed the island. 

On the wall the coffin, or box, was placed and arched 
over with stone and wood with a kind of cement. The 
whole was nearly overgrown with moss. 

A negro belonging to the ship on coming to it, said he 
had dreamed three successive nights of finding a vast 
amount of money, and believed this to be the spot. He 
set about beating it down, but was driven from it. 

Our attention was aroused by the loud cries of one of 
the crew. When we arrived at the spot, we found him 
with an enormous land lobster, which he had attempted 
to catch, linked to his thumb so firmly as only to be 
removed by breaking the claw. These in shape resem- 
ble the water lobster, though much larger. Our friend 
did not attempt to '• catch the Tartar " again. We took 
the lobster to the boat and tied him up, so that he would 
not run away. They run very fast, drawing their huge 
claws on the ground after them. 

Again v/e went a cruising, and came to a little cove 
about half a mile in leiigth and about half a mile also 
iu widih, being nearly dry at low tide. One of the crew 
saw a large eel of a greenish color lying quietly in the 
mud. Thinking to have a little sport, he took a stick 
and gave him a blow, which was paid back with inter- 
est. The stick flew from his hands, and he yelled loud 
enough to be heard half a mile, lie found this to be a 
large electrical eel, who was not to be trifled with. 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 173 

Other fish are seldom found within their haunts. 
They Uve imbedded in the mud until driven therefrom, 
when with all their venom they dart at the ofiender, or 
the first object that comes in their reach. The first 
blow of a large one would kill any of the human species. 
When in a state of weakness or nearly exhausted, the 
sensation produced is quite like that given by a galvanic 
battery or an electrical machine. They are often found 
to be from four to six feet long, and weigh from fourteen 
to twenty pounds. In some parts of South America, 
fording places are abandoned entirely in consequence of 
them, it being unsafe to ride through. 

When the horse or mule steps on them as they lie in 
the mud, they coil around the legs and against the 
body, and, with a succession of shocks, bring the poor 
animal down, and before he can recover from the shocks 
he is drowned. The rider being dismounted, quite likely 
falls a prey to some other one, who being fully charged 
soon puts an end to him. 

Finding the nature of the fish, some of the crew being 
bent upon having a little sport, went in the boat, got 
lances, spears, &c., and commenced an attack upon 
them. In this I did not join, finding more sport in 
watching them, than in contributing as dearly as some 
of them did for the amusement of the others. 

The negro could not forget his dreamy visions, and 
was most sanguine in his belief that the before-mention- 
ed mound contained the object of his fancy. 

Thither he repaired with two or three of his ship- 
mates, myself among the number, determined to be sat- 
isfied respecting it. He took a large stone and began 
pounding away at the cement, which was nearly as 



174 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

hard as the stone itself. Beatmg a hole through, he 
assiduously plied himself to pulling out the stones one 
after another, until he made a hole through to the rude 
box, whence escaped an odor quite unlike that emanat- 
ing from a miser's chest. He being so intent upon his 
errand, would not now beUeve but it contained .treasure 
for him, and again went to work ; running his hand 
through the hole he had made, he pulled out a piece o 
a board which Decay had marked as her own, which 
now fully convinced him of the certainty of the con- 
tents. 

Exasperated at this he flew to the tomb, and would 
not have left one stone upon another had not we inter- 
fered and drove him away, when we replaced the stones 
as well as we could. 

We next went about securing a quantity of lobsters to 
take to sea with us. The negro seeing one run into a 
hole under the roois of a cocoa-nut tree, ran his hand in 
after him, but soon found he had also '^ caught a Tar- 
tar." He relinquished his hold, but not so with the 
lobster : he adhered closely after he was drawn from 
the hole. The negro jumped about, making wry faces 
and yelling loud enough to be heard half a mile. The 
bystanders were so much affected at his grimaces, that 
they indulged in a hearty laugh, and could not for a 
moment or two assist him in the least. 

To laugh at any being's calamity is by no means 
justifiable ; but I think had the most sedate person wit- 
nessed the affair, his risibilities would have been affected 
to a considerable degree. 

We caught about forty and took them to the ship. 
Tlie next morning none of them could be found ; after 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 175 

much searching we found them dispersed about the 
rigging, and for several days we found them in different 
parts of the vessel. 

I have often heard those better acquainted with their 
nature than I am, say, they climb the lofty cocoa-nut 
tree, pick the fruit, carry it out upon the ends of the 
limb over some rock, and drop it, thus getting at the 
meat. This I cannot assert as fact, for I never saw it; 
yet I have seen hundreds of them on trees ; I have seen 
them take the nut in their claws and beat it on the stone, 
and crack the shell. 

Leaving the Duke of York's Island, we stood for 
Fanning's Island, which is of about the same description 
as the last-mentioned one. 

Here we cruised about a few days, went on shore, 
and found tVv^o huts that had the appearance of being 
recently occupied. 

From thence we stood for the Mulgrave's group, *^ 
where we took three whales. After trying the oil, we 
went on shore on Cohannah Island, where there was 
but little indication of life. On going up a little creek 
we saw a smoke in the distance ; seeing this I told the 
captain it was best to put back to the ship, for should 
they see the harpoons and lances in the boats, they 
would at once consider us as enemies, and would most 
likely attempt to murder us. 

He would not be persuaded to return, declaring he 
would land at all hazards, which was effected with 
great difficulty, on account of the surf which ran very 
high. 

The captain took his gun with him, saying he would 
shoot the first native he saw. We found several canoes 



176 lIfe and adventures 

hung up in the bushes. Again I begged of the captain 
to return. He turned upon me, calling me a coward. 
This epithet I was willing to bear, telling him if he 
knew as much of them as I did, he would rather be 
called a coward than be caught by them. 

Soon the loud war whoop rang in our ears. I told 
the captain he could then do as he pleased, but I was 
going to the boat, and started. I jumped into the boat 
and shoved off. The natives were rushing down to the 
beach, armed with clubs and spears. The captain was 
still quite reluctant about getting in. He drew up his 
gun ready for firing. This I remonstrated loudly 
against, but it did no good. He fired, wounding one of 
them in the legs, who fell upon the ground, yelling 
loudly, and taking up sand rubbed it on the wound. 
This to the Captain was much sport, but it would not 
be sport to the next unsuspecting crew that might touch 
there, who would without a doubt atone for his folly, 
for they would most assuredly be revenged. 

We spoke the bark Harriet, of London, on our way to 
the Barbadoes, which lie in about S'^ 30m' north latitude, 
and about 175*^ west longitude. From them we procured 
a quantity of Plantain, bananas, and a few hogs. 

From thence we made the Sandwich islands, when 
to the windward of Hawaii, about 60 miles, we en- 
countered one of the heaviest gales I v\^as ever called 
upon to witness, — carrying our fore-top-mast away by 
the cap — main-top-gallant mast and yard, and springing 
our mizen mast-head. We put up the helm ; squared 
away our main-yard; loosed, and set the fore-sail, to 
run to the leeward to get more sea room. Under this 
sail we ran very well, whilst running through the nar- 



OF WILLIAM 'TORREY, 177 

rows that separate Hawaii from Mauii, at the distance 
of thirty miles. 

There was a heavy and irregular sea which pooped 
the ship, and nearly proved her entire ruin. Clearing 
the deck of water-casks; sweeping the binnacle, which 
contained the compass, from the deck : tearing the bul- 
warks from their stations: breaking the rudder at the 
water's edge, and nearly killing the man at the helm. 
Those on deck, seeing the wave as it arose and was 
sweeping towards them, caught hold of the rigging, 
and thereby saved themselves probably from a watery 
grave. 

In this condition we lay, or rather drifted, at the 
mercy of the waves, three days. When the gale abated, 
we were about a hundred miles to the south v/ard of the 
group. We then rigged a jury, or temporary rudder, 
made from an old spar, which answered our purpose. 

The wind shifting to the southward, we stood nearly 
before it, running under reefed man-top-sail and fore- 
sail ; with the greatest care, we were enabled to make 
Honolulu, and came to anchor about three miles from 
the town. When all was snug, the boat was manned for 
shore, where were several whale vessels lying, from 
which twenty boats were manned to assist us in towing 
the ship into the harbor where she was repaired. 

There is a coral reef which extends along the harbor 
about a mile, leaving only a narrow passage of about 
one hundred feet for ships to pass. Ships are generally 
obliged to be towed into the harbor, in consequence of 
the high points which tower high, and becalm them. 

At the head of the channel is Diamond head or hill, 
which is the principle point on the south side of the 



178 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

island. '^ This is the crater of an extinguished volca- 
no—a bare shell of a mountain whose bowels have 
been exhausted by fire. It is of circular form, many 
miles in circumference, and rises almost perpendicular 
several hundred feet. Its sides every where look like 
seared walls; and are fluted and furrowed from top to 
bottom by the washings of water-courses, as if by arti- 
ficial workmanship. They are also surmounted in 
many places by a kind of moulding, of equally singular 
formation ; and again by blocks and piles of jagged 
lava, having in their elevation the appearance of the 
parapets and battlements of a dilapidated castle." Be- 
tween this crater, and the town of Honolulu, which is 
about three miles distant, lies the neat little valley or 
plain of Waikiki. The road leading to Honolulu is on 
both sides lined with cocoa-nut trees, under which, 
at intervals of only a few rods, are refreshment stations, 
which are well supplied with billiard and card tables, 
aud every means of dissipation. Dram houses are also 
very frequent. A more beautiful spot could not be se- 
lected than that leading to Honolulu. Beyond Honolu- 
lu, to the west, lies a wide extent of open country 
under a fine state of cultivation. 

While at Honokilu, I witnessed the execution of 
twelve natives for mutiny on board a pearl trader, when 
off" Fanning's island, whither they resorted after the 
afi*air, and erected two huts which I have spoken of as 
having seen at that place. 

One day, on shore, we saw four men drawing sand 
in hand-carts — each man having a native to guard or 
drive him. Upon inquiry, we were told they belonged 
to the ship Kingston of Nantucket; and, for some slight 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 179 

difficulty with the master, (Capt. Coffin,) they were 
complained of to Jones, the consul, who threw them 
into irons, and subject to six lashes each morning, and 
to draw sand during the day. This treatment was to 
continue during the stay of the ship; and did until the 
arrival of the Potomac, Commodore Downs, who in- 
stantly released them, most severely reprimanding both 
the Captain and Mr. Jones. 

The men being released went on board the Potomac, 
and some of her men went with Capt. Coffin. As they 
went on board, they told the Captain it was their inten- 
tion to throw him and his officers overboard, if they did 
not use them well. A few days after, the Commodore 
went on board the Kingston to see how Coffin liked his 
new men. He tolc him he would most assuredly have 
trouble unless he treated them well. He also said he ex- 
pected to hear from that ship before long, meaning there 
would, in his opinion, be trouble. Coffin was consid- 
ered a bad man, being overbearing and very irritable 
with his crew. Once he confined a man below, and 
gave him nothing to eat for several days but saw-dust 
and molasses. 

When the Potomac left the harbor, she was towed by 
a number of boats within the influence of the sea breeze, 
when, giving three cheers which were answered, she 
made sail, and was soon out of sight. On our return to 
the harbor, some thought to try the surf, which is 
sometimes performed in canoes, but usually on what is 
termed a surf-board, which is an article of private prop- 
erty among the higher classes, both male and female, 
and to some extent among the common people. This 
is a board of six or eight feet in length, and from fifteen 



180 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

to twenty inches wide, rounded down to an edge; the 
whole surface being made verj^ smooth. 

With this under the arm, they repair to the water, 
and swim into the surf. As they meet a roller, as it is 
called, or wave, they plunge beneath, and let it pass 
over. Thus they proceed to any desired distance; 
sometimes to half a mile out into the open sea, and 
wait the approach of a heavy swell, when they throw 
themselves upon the board with the face downwards, 
having the head and body elevated above the board, 
and headed for the shore. They skillfully keep them- 
selves upon the swell with their feet and arms, and are 
borne with the greatest velocity upon its foaming crest, 
with their heads alone visible above the foam. As they 
near the shore, they usually slip from the board, to pre- 
vent being thrown upon the sand by the surf. This is re- 
peated for hours in succession, and hundreds may many 
times be seen together riding upon the waves, when they 
break high above the coral reefs. Four or five of the 
boats in trying it upset, and the men were thrown upon 
the reef, and much bruised. 

We left the harbor of Honolulu about the first of Au- 
gust,. 1837, bound for the coast of California. 

Arriving at Point Conception, we lowered away for 
the shore, taking three guns with us, where we had 
much sport shooting deer, rabbits, and squirrels; also 
some ducks. Getting a supply of provisions we squared 
our yards, and stood down the coast: touched at Gau- 
daloupe, an uninhabited island, where we took three 
seal. This island is much visited by sealers, in the seal- 
ing season, where they are taken in great quantities. 



OF WILLIAM TOEREY. 181 

On our passage from thence found our oil leaking 
very badly indeed. 

Shaped our course for Sir Francis Drake's bay for 
cooperage. On arriving at the supposed place, found 
nothing but a high iron bound coast, with no possible 
opening or harbor. The entire crew were strangers on 
those shores, and knew not the exact position of the 
harbor. Seeing a small narrow opening in the rocks, 
we fancied it might lead to the harbor; but it being so 
near night did not think it prudent to attempt a pas- 
sage that night. Lay off and on that night, and in the 
morning felt our way into the harbor, which we found 
to be a very fine one indeed, being completely land- 
locked, and large enough for one hundred sail of ships 
to lie at a time in perfect safety. 

All fell to securing the oil, which occupied the best 
part of two days. After the oil was again stowed, and 
the ship cleaned up, we were allowed liberty on shore, 
two at a time, furnished with guns and ammunition; 
shot a great number of penguins and pelicans, which 
were very tame, allowing us to get quite near them. 
At one time, we saw four animals of the wolf species, 
though much smaller than those of the more northern 
regions. They w^ere standing at our usual place of 
landing, picking the meat from the shells with which 
the rocks abound, and known as the California shell. 

Not liking to land among them, we lay at our oars, 

making a great noise; this did not intimidate them in 

the least. Firing at them we next thought we would 

try; wounded one of them, at whom the others flew, 

and despatched him in a few moments. The other gun 

was soon in readiness. We fired and killed two; the 
16 



182 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

fourth thinking then it was high time to be off, ran for 
the mountains with great speed. Landing, we took the 
bodies of the wolves, and laid them by for safety until 
we should return to the ship. We went into the moun- 
tains, shot at and wounded several more, but could not 
get the bodies. Saw an enormous black bird perched 
upon a high cliff. We crawled around about to where 
he sat when we first saw him ; when we got there he 
had anticipated our movements, and removed to a point 
still higher. Saw several smaller ones, but were not 
near enough to fire. 

It being now near night, we thought we would take 
a nearer cut to get to the ship, and accordingly started 
down the cliff. Coming to an almost perpendicular 
place, of some ten or fifteen feet, we questioned some 
time whether it was best to jump or go around by 
another path. Concluding to jump, we fired our guns 
to prevent any accident therefrom. The other threw 
down his gun, and slid after it in safety. I followed, 
but was not so fortunate ; falling heels over head, I 
landed in a bunch of prickly pears. Having on nothing 
but thin clothes, which were no safeguard at all, I was 
filled, from head to foot, with those sharp and piercing 
thorns. From them I suffered very much for a great 
length of time. Many of the prickles the sailors picked 
out of me, the others remained until they caused a sore, 
and with the matter passed off. On a small island, at 
the entrance of the harbor which we went into, was the 
grave of an English Captain, who was murdered by one 
of his crew, a Portuguese, in 1830. The ofiicers of the 
ship threw a lance at him, and killed him; he was 
buried at low water mark without coflSln or shrgudc 



OF WILLIAM TOKREY. " 183 

On the opposite side of the island we saw a number of 
sea-elephants, which are taken for their oil, sometimes. 

Spending three weeks at Sir F. Drake's bay, we hoist- 
ed anchor and sailed down the coast, shortening sail 
and heaving ^the ship to nights, so as not to pass over 
the ground uselessly. Some difficulty arose between 
the officers and crew, which occasioned many hard 
words. A plot was laid with the crew to murder the 
officers, run the vessel into some island and abandon 
her. I was counted as of them, but under no circum- 
stances could I have been induced to join them in plac- 
ing the finger of harm upon Capt. Coleman. Too 
nobly had he acquitted himself in my favor, when upon 
the island a captive among the cannibals. 

They were extremely impatient for the signal for ac- 
tion to be given, but I kept them in check, promising 
them a more favorable moment. Thus I held them till 
their anger had somewhat died away, and we were at 
Cape St. Lucas. Soon as the anchor was let go and 
the sails furled, I went to the captain and demanded 
my pay, also to be put on shore. This astonished him 
greatly, as all things had passed pleasantly. 

As an explanation of the affair, I simply told him 
there was a plot laid, which put in force, would not re- 
sult in his favor, and advised him to be on his guard, lest 
in a single moment all would be lost. For a moment 
he hesitated about giving me my discharge, meaning to 
retain me, but that he could not do, for I had not signed 
the ship's papers. He offered me twenty dollars if I 
would tell him of the plot and those concerned, which 
I would not do, knowing I had already disclosed enough 
for him to save himself from all harm with proper 
care. 



184 LIFE AND ADVENTUKES 




C H A P T E R X 1 1 . 

Sail for the North West Coast. Am required to sign the ship's arti- 
cles. Trouble with officers. Anchor at New Archangel. Dogs 
trained to the harness. Leave the ship. Fall in with an Indian 
hunting party. Their manners and customs. Humanity of an In- 
dian. Return to St. Lucas. Goes over land to St. Josephs. 
Lives with a Catholic priest. Narrow escape. Arrive at San 
Blass. Ship for Buenos Ayres. Fearful passage of the straits 
of Magellan in a storm. Description of Buenos Ayres. 

WAS left upon a miserable shore among the 
Spaniards Avith whom I could hold no con- 

(fflk < versation whatever. Their proverbial hospi- 
.fuxZ ^^li^7 ^^^s extended to me during the few 
days I was to remain there. 

The brig Congress, Capt. Strong, of Valparaiso, bound 
for the N. W. Coast, coming to anchor there, I shipped 
myself on board, for eighteen dollars per month. 

Watering the ship we proceeded to Sir F. Drake's 
bay, where we attempted to take some Sea Elephants, 
but did not succeed. Here we remained only a few 
days. 

Again we weighed anchor and stood to sea before a 
fine breeze. Spreading our studding-sails to a strong 
south wind we glided swiftly on. 

When out to sea all hands were called and the ship's 
articles read, and those who had not signed them, were 
requested to do so at that time. 

The articles forbid our trading with any person on 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 185 

shore, under the penalty of forfeiting our wages. Turn- 
ing around, I said ^'- Well, boys ! here we are, under 
martial laws, but I don't see the pendant flying." 

The captain flew into a perfect rage, and came up to 
me asking, ^'What did you say, ^ir?" I laughingly 
said, '• I have no handle to my name yet." At this he 
was still more enraged than before, and told me to stop 
my sauce, at the same time called upon Mr. WilUams, 
the mate, to put me in irons. 

I told them they had better be passed by, for there 
would most certainly difiiculty attend it, for I knew the 
crew would not sufler it to be done. 

At this instant the steward appeared with a pair of 
pistols, which he laid on the companion. 

Old Jack, as he was called, a rough old fellow, being 
then at the wheel, seeing them, came forward and threw 
them overboard, saying he should like to be a partici- 
pator in the affair, and bid the master be quiet for he 
was there himself. 

Strong seeing there was no alternative, let the matter 
drop, and all things went on harmoniously till we ar- 
rived at Nootka Sound. 

One morning, being released from the wheel which I 
had held for six hours, I was told there was no break- 
fast for me. Taking the kid (a small wooden dish 
which our meat, potatoes, &c., are put in) under my 
arm, I walked up to the captain, and said, ^' I would 
thank him for some meat for breakfast." He replied, 
^^ You have had meat enough, if not, eat the kid." 

*'Well, sir," said I, **'you shall have the first taste 

and see how you hke it," at the same time giving him a 

hearty slap in the face with it, knocking him over, 
16^ 



186 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

when I asked him if it was seasoned too high or not. 
The mate caught me by the neck, saying, ^' you muti- 
nous rascal, do you mean to take the ship 7'^ and dealt 
me a blow. The kid, still with me, was submitted to 
his decision. I then ordered them to put me on shore, 
which, as they could not mould me into any shape they 
wished, they concluded to do at Nootka. 

When we came to anchor, I packed my clothes and 
prepared to start. When all was ready, 1 bid an adieu 
to captain, crew, and ship, and stepped into the boat, 
when most of the crew came forward with their things 
also packed, declaring their intention of leaving if I did. 
The captain seeing the dilemma he would be in should 
such be the case, recalled me, oflering me kind treat- 
ment and every privilege I could in reason expect. 

I again went upon duty. Still I could see the captain 
and mate had not entirely lost the taste of the kid. We 
went on shore. It being the last of October, the weather 
was cold indeed. Snow was six or eight inches deep. 
Bought furs, hides, tallow, &c. Here we remained five 
days. 

Weighing anchor again, we stood for New Archangel, 
a Russian settlement, where we came to anchor. A 
Russian man-of-war with two or three other vessels 
was lying there. 

The houses of the people are built of logs and made 
very warm and tight. The soldiers were busy drawing 
wood to the barracks on sledges with dogs. Ten or fif- 
teen are harnessed to a sledge as the occasion may re- 
quire, having a collar and a single trace running over 
the back. They are not tied together, but draw inde- 
pendent of each other, each having a trace by himself. 



OF WILLIAM TORREY, 187 

the most docile one having the longest trace, and is the 
leader. »' 

The dog that is struck, generally the hind one, draws 
back and springs upon the next one, and he upon the 
next, and so a blow given to one, seldom fails to pro- 
duce a general snarling among them. 

Ten dogs thus harnessed will draw half a cord of 
wood at a time, at the rate 'of six miles per hour. 

Knowing the treatment I should receive when I arriv- 
ed at Valparaiso for striking the captain and mate with 
the kid, I was induced to leave the ship and try a life 
with the natives, and persuaded one shipmate to join 
me. Accordingly, before the ship was to depart, w^e 
w^ent ashore with the captain, taking what clothes we 
could possibly wear without detection. As we made 
the shore, the captain stepped out^ saying he should be 
back in a few moments, and bid us not leave the boat at 
all. Soon as he w^as out of sight we took to our heels, 
and made for the woods, leaving him to officiate in the 
several capacities of captain, oarsman, and boatkeeper. 

On w^e traveled until near night, when we heard the 
sound of some one chopping wood. Guided by the 
sound, we followed on, hoping to find some human hab- 
itation. The sound dying away, we heard a low hum- 
ming or singing, and on coming upon a little hill, we 
saw a large fire, which we at once recognized as the 
camp ground of an Indian hunting party, and we re- 
solved to go to them, being almost frozen. 

As we came near them the dogs with loud barking 
aroused the Indians, who came out with their guns. 
We hurried on, fearing they might fire upon us. The 



188 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

dogs gave way and the Indians came forward to meet 
us a few rods from the camp. 

We shook hands with one and all as a token of 
friendship. Soon as they understood our cold and hun- 
gry situation, with the spirit of benevolence which is so 
justly applied to them, they set about rendering us as 
comfortable as possible, giving us to eat of their humble 
fare, after which we were nicely wrapped in skins for 
the night, when we slept very finely indeed. 

Soon as daylight appeared a party was despatched for 
game for breakfast. Returning they were richly loaded 
with one deer, squirrels, rabbits, and other small game, 
in great abundance, which was given to the females, 
whose duty it is to prepare and cook it. We made a 
fine breakfast, after which they made preparations to 
proceed on their journey, which lay to the northward. 
As we wished to go to the southward we were obliged 
to part. Again we took one and all by the hand in 
token of gratitude for kindnesses shown us. 

The clothing of the males consists of a coat of fur 
which extends below the knees. Below this they wear 
a leggin of fine fur neatly wrought with shells of va- 
rious kinds and colors. Over the shoulders is thrown 
loosely a blanket or cloak, also made of fur. The head 
is covered with feathers wrought into a cap-like form. 
Their arms are a hatchet, knife and gun. Their habi- 
tation, the wide world, having no place whatever they 
call home, pitching their tents of skins where night 
overtakes them. 

The dress of the females differs from that of the males 
somewhat. The cloak or mantle is made to cover the 
whole body, and large enough to allow the mother to 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 189 

carry the child upon her back, its legs resting across its 
mother's hips and its liead above the mantle. The 
mother carries her child upon her back until it is three 
or four years old, when, if a boy. the father trains him 
to hunt; if a girl, she is taught to dress the food and 
cure the skins. 

Near the close of day we fell in with another Indian 
who was hunting alone, with two dogs. Soon as we 
came in sight the dogs started to come for us, and had 
not the hunter held them till we came up, v/ould have 
done so. The moment he shook hands with us they 
seemed to understand we were friends, and would play 
around us like kittens. He asked in broken English, 
^' where go 7" We told him to New Archangel. Placing 
his hand upon his breast said, ^-me go," meaning he 
would accompany us. 

The dogs coming upon track of some animal, sprang 
off and were soon lost from sight. The hunter hearing 
their bark, bent his ear to the ground to catch the sound 
and determine the distance, and sprang away. Soon 
we heard the sharp report of his rifle, at the same time 
he gave a loud whoop as a signal to us. We followed 
on and found him w^ith a deer nearly dressed, the dogs 
lying by his side, waiting their portion. Folding up 
the skin, he quartered him and cut a portion up for the 
dogs. Going to the side of a high ledge, he built a fire 
and roasted one quarter, which we nearly devoured. 
Taking the remainder on our shoulders we followed the 
Indian. The moon shining very brightly added much 
to the pleasantness of the scene. Gaining an eminence 
our friend gave a loud whoop which was answered by 
some one in the distance. Smilingly he said, --man — 



190 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

man," and renewed his pace. Soon we came to a large 
fire, around which were seated a number of Indians, 
who arose as we came up and extended the hand, wel- 
coming us to their camp. 

After again partaking of roasted venison we were 
shown to our bed, which was simply a skin warm from 
the back of a deer, spread upon the snow, having 
another thrown over us. The fire is kept burning during 
the night. With the first light of morning we were 
called to breakfast, which was ready, the person who 
watched the fire having cooked it, which consisted 
again of roasted venison. 

This being over we bade adieu to all except the one 
with whom we went to the camp, and started for New 
Archangel, at which place we arrived before night; 
found the vessel gone. We then shook hands with the 
Indian in token of gratitude for the assistance he had 
afforded us, when with tears in his eyes he said, "me 
love do good." 

Often have I read, when a boy, of the kindness of the 
North American Indian to the weary, wandering white 
man, even while hostilities were raging between them; 
and at the very time we were shown to the paths of 
civilization, our American Congress were legislating on 
the best means for their utter annihilation, calling to 
their aid the Cubian bloodhounds. 

Here we found a man, formerly of New York, who 
had been in the Russian service twenty years, and was 
at that time purser or clerk of the ship, and was then 
bound to Mazatlan, in Mexico. Through him we ob- 
tained an opportunity of working our passage to that 
place. 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 191 

With light hearts we left the N. W. Coast for a more 
genial dime. On arriving at St. Lucas I thought I 
would leave the ship, as I had been previously some- 
what acquainted there, while my shipmate went on to 
Mazatlan. 

As was my happy lot I fell in with the same persons 
I met with in my other visit, who seemed delighted at 
my return. I remained with them a few days, when it 
was proposed that I should accompany them to St. Jo- 
sephs, about seventy|miles, to attend Christmas, to 
which I readily assented, caring not whither I went. 
At about three o'clock in the afternoon we started, 
seven of us, all mounted on asses, following one after 
the other. Coming to a large field, we turned our asses 
loose that they might refresh themselves, while we 
cooked a hasty supper. Again we niounted and were 
under way, having then about fifty miles to go. They 
being anxious to reach St. Josephs that night rode very 
fast. About twelve they suddenly stopped, dismounted 
and ordered me to do the same. Standing a few mo- 
ments, the asses knelt and commenced a tremendous 
braying. The Spaniards kneeling by their sides, went 
through a sort of prayer. This I suppose was in com- 
memoration of the day. Why the asses should thus 
kneel was a great mystery to me. I could not believe 
it to be intuitive, yet I did not see any sign by which 
the wish of the Spaniard was made known, and to this 
day my mind is not satisfied about the matter. 

We reached St. Josephs about sunrise, rode up to the 
Chapel, before which the Spaniards crossed themselyes 
many times, then to the dwelling of the Padre or Priest, 
where the like crossing was performed. The asses ^ere 



192 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

then put out in a large field, where were nearly three 
hundred. All persons coming thither for the observance 
of Christmas were allowed to place them there. 

About noon an interpreter came with one of the Span- 
iards, and asked me if I would take charge of the 
priest's horses and do his out-of-door work. This I 
was willing to do, and immediately went upon the du- 
ties. Things passed along finely for a few weeks, 
when I became acquainted with an American pedler, 
through whom I ignorantly became embroiled with the 
priest and came near losing my head in consequence. 
I knew nothing of the aff^air until the officers were ac- 
tually on the track for me, when I fled with my best 
abilities for the harbor, which was eight miles from St. 
Josephs, over hills and through swamps, swimming one 
or two little streams. 

On reaching the water I plunged in and swam for a 
sloop which was laying out a little. The mate threw 
me a rope by which I crawled up the ship's side. I told 
him my story, at which he seemed much pleased. He 
said if the captain was aboard, I should be sent on 
shore, but as it was he would try to save me. He took 
me below and secreted me, where the captain would 
know nothing of it, leaving me provision to last till 
they would be out to sea, which would probably be on 
the retiun of the captain. 

The sloop was owned by the captain, who was an 
Irishman, and all of the crew were either French or 
Spanish, except the mate, who was an Englishman. 

The captain came, hoisted anchor, and stood out to 
sei. When the bustle attendant upon leaving the har- 
bor was over, the captain related the story as he heard 



OF WILLIAM TORRE Y. 193 

it at St. Josephs, which at that time had gained great 
pubUcity there. It was his opinion I should lose my 
head, for he was sure I should be taken. The mate 
hearing what the captain had to say respecting it, called 
me from my hidmg place, to tell my own story. The 
captain was greatly astonished, and for a moment hesi- 
tated whether he should not put back with me ; and I 
think perhaps he might have done so, had not the mate 
strongly remonstrated with him. 

It was long a question with them how they should 
work the affair with the Alcalda (or governor) of San 
Blass, who would most certainly come aboard, either in 
person or by his vigilant officers, for the ship's papers, 
&c. Upon my repeatedly promising to keep my own 
counsel he agreed to write me a passport and forge the 
Alcalda's name of St. Josephs. 

The passport was written and signed, and on hand- 
ing it to me, he said, ^* Jack, you no lie." Again I told 
him I would not expose him, even on the pain of death. 
The third day we reached San Blass. We were no 
sooner in the harbor than the officer was aboard for the 
papers. Seeing me, he asked in Spanish who I was, and 
was informed I was from St. Josephs. He asked for 
my passport, which after examining, he returned to me. 
Leaving the sloop I went on shore and joined a Mexican 
man-of-war-brig, which was lading there protecting the 
harbor. Mexico and Columbia were then in a state of 
hostility towards each other. 

We cruised around the gulf a few days, and again 
stood for San Blass; running upon a reef we bilged our 
vessel. Thinking I had served long enough in the 

17 



194 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

Mexican service, I took my clothes, without saying a 
word to the officers, and went on shore. 

Finding the brig Romance, Capt. Johnson, lying 
there, bound for Buenos Ayres, laden with Indigo and 
cocoa, I shipped myself on board. The cocoa, with 
which ^ve were laden, is a small nut, of the size of a 
large chestnut, from which chocolate is made ; it grows 
in pods like peas, and is cultivated like corn yearly. 

We spread our sails to a steady, strong north wind, 
as much as we could possibly stagger under. Stowed 
anchors, and made all things snug about deck. Sailed 
under Peruvian colors to avoid detection. As we came 
abreast Panama, the wind died away, and left us almost 
becalmed for a few hours, when it veered around to the 
northwest, suddenly, and freshened into a stiff breeze, 
which wafted us nearly to the Straits of Magellan, as 
quick, I think, as ever vessel sped before the wind. 
Here the wind, without seeming to cease for a moment, 
turned into the south and blew a perfect gale. We 
hove her to under close reefed main-top-sail, for five 
days, when we wore ship, and stood in shore, the wind 
still continuing in the south. The Captain concluded 
to try the Straits the next day, rather than risk doub- 
ling the Cape with such a wind. 

The Straits of Magellan lie in about 53"^ south lati- 
tude, and were discovered by Fernando Magellan, 
whose name they bear ; they are about 350 miles long, 
and are at the Pacific entrance, 25 miles wide, and the 
eastern side about 20. In some parts they are not more 
than a league broad. The general form is that of a 
crescent, while the whole course is zigzag. The Pacific 
side is several feet the highest, causing a current so 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 195 

Strong as to bid defiance to its passage from the eastern 
side. The sides are hned with high and craggy rocks, 
rising almost perpendicularly. Over them the Magellan 
clouds, so called from their position, always are seen, 
and to a great distance, apprising the mariner of his 
proximity to the almost only place which he allows 
himself to fear, — Cape Horn. 

The next morning came with the wind still blowing 
from the south ; we made preparations for entering the 
Straits as was proposed. The flaws of wind which 
struck the vessel with the strong current, hurried us on 
with the rapidity of lightning. We were obliged to 
stand by the halyards and braces constantly, night and 
day, so often were we called upon to tack ship, in conse- 
quence of the many crooked turnings in our course, and 
flaws of w^ind which struck us from all quarters, break- 
ing over the high rocks, which lined the straits. 

The rocks which lined the shore were capped with 
snow and ice, which seemed ready to fall and crush us. 
Innumerable quantities of seals were seen lying along 
the shore. Shrimp and penguins also were seen in 
great numbers. 

As we neared the Atlantic side, the wind and the 
force of the current became less. This distance was 
performed in forty-five hours from the time we entered 
the western side ; and during the time not a man of us 
left the deck, except in pursuance of some order. 

Getting a good offing, we shaped our course for 
Buenos Ayres, where we landed, six weeks after leav- 
ing San Blass. Discharging our cargo, we were allowed 
a tittle time on shore, which I readily improved in wan- 
dering about the city. The La Plata, on which Buenos 



196 LIFE AND ADVENTURES, 

Ayres stands at a distance of 200 miles, is about 170 
miles wide at its mouth, and can be navigated by large 
ships to a distance of 800 miles. 

The situation of the city is delightful. The houses 
are built of brick, with flat roofs, and of one story 
usually, though some are seen two stories high ; a gar- 
den is usually attached. 

The public buildings are a Palace, Royal Chapel, 
a most magnificent Cathredral, and many Churches. 
The principal square faces the La Plata, and is indeed 
very spacious. 

There is no harbor at Buenos Ayres ; and ships can 
only come within seven or eight miles of the town, 
v/here they discharge their cargoes into lighters, which 
take them ashore. 

The population is about 70,000, consisting of whites, 
Indians, and negroes. Slaves are quite numerous, and 
are treated much better than in any other place I ever 
visited. The old are particularly well attended to. 
The climate is indeed favorable to health. Violent 
winds are often-experienced, which raise clouds of dust, 
fining their houses completely, and almost entirely ob- 
scuring the sun. 




OF WILLIAM TORREY. 197 




CHAPTER XIII. 

Return to San Blass. Description of the Town. Strikes a Spaniard, 
and resists the Pohce. Is placed in the Stocks. Goes on board the 
Tammercee. The Captain is employed to take a quantity of Gold 
to England. Fight between the Officers. Anchor at Tehuantepec 
for Dye-Stuifs. Precaution used against Scorpions, Centipedes, 
&c. Arrival at Panama. Scenes on Shore. Arrive at Callao. 
Ride to Lima. Description of Lima. Arrival at Valparaiso. 
Again double the Cape on the wings of the wind. Arrival at 
Liverpool. Sketch of the City. 

^'^^^^^ETTING in a cargo of dry goods, we set sail 
for San Blass. Smoothly we glided down the 
La Plata, having a gentle west wind which 
lasted till we made the Falklands. 
Seemingly unwilling we should double the Cape with 
any degree of pleasantness, it veered round to the south, 
and freshening each moment, soon blew a hurricane 
which lasted thirty-six hours. When moderating, and 
at the same time shifting into the east, we braced full, 
and stood for the Cape : for eleven days the wind con- 
tinued in the east, and gave us a fine passage around 
the Cape, We were accompanied on our way by a 
large Iceberg of the largest dimensions, v/hich kept 
within half a mile of us for twenty- four hours. 

The wind again, in a very accommodating manner, 
turned in our favor, driving us before it with great ve- 
locity under close reefed main-top-sail and fore-sail, for 

fourteen days, at which time we reached Valparaiso, 

17* 



198 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

Still favoring, though more lightly, we were enabled to 
reach San Blass in about the same time required for the 
outward bound voyage. Discharging our cargo we 
were paid off. I then went to the city of San Blass, 
which is five or six miles from the beach. As I remained 
there but a short time, I cannot be expected to give a 
full account of the city, which is situated on an emi- 
nence which rises an hundred or two feet gradually 
from the sea; and is enclosed by a huge wall, having 
only two gates or entrances into it. One of these is on 
the north side ; the other, on the west side. A part of 
the wall which faces the sea, is built upon a ledge of 
rocks which rise almost perpendicular, and forms an 
impregnable barrier. The walls are heavily mounted 
with guns on the side towards the sea, and manned 
continually. The dwelUngs are mostly built of stone of 
ancient architecture; low and covered with tiles. The 
streets are narrow and dirty, though mostly paved with 
stone. Dissipation is carried in every thing to a great 
length. The inhabitants are, in a great degree, low and 
sensual. One day, while on shore, I traded with a 
Spaniard, with whom I had a few hasty words; his 
insolence I could not bear, and gave him a severe blow 
which felled him to the ground. Seeing the police on 
the alert I ran for the sea. Soon they overtook me. I gave 
the first one a blow, and threw him over a wall down 
a bank of a few feet. Finding more than I could 
easily handle, I surrendered. I was taken before the 
governor, v^^ho caused me to be placed in the stocks for 
twenty-four hours. 

I had my hands, feet, and neck, placed in the stocks, 
which was in the hot sun, upon the burning sand, du- 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 199 

ring the day; I had to look continually up to the sun, 
and ere night was almost blind"; my face badly swollen, 
and almost blistered. Swarms of musquitoes and fleas 
visited me at night, each paying their respects, leaving 
an impression upon my feelings. Crowds of natives 
gathered around, offering me every insult they were 
capable of doing. When I was taken from the stocks 
I could hardly walk or stand, and it required several 
days for me to regain the use of my hmbs to any com- 
fortable degree. 

Soon as I was able I crawled down to the shore, and 
fell in with Captain Masters, of the ship Tamm^ercee of 
Liverpool, whither he would sail in a few days. Know- 
ing he was in want of hands, I offered myself for thirty- 
seven dollars per month : this he was unwilling to give. 
Meeting him again in a few days, he said he had seen 
my former captain, who gave me a good character, and 
a reputation as a seaman, therefore he would give me 
the desired wages. 

I went on board and was given the second mate's 
duty, which the ship carpenter had performed. 

At evening the captain selected six of us to follow 
him on shore. We went to a house where there was a 
quantity of gold coins, mostly doubloons. He ordered 
us to take as many as we could carry, and go for the 
ship. This was done twice, and daylight coming on, 
we were deterred from going again. This was the 
property of resident merchants, who v/ished to make a 
deposit in the Bank of England, and were obliged to 
resort to this expedient on account of the laws, which 
prohibited their removal. We received a present from 



200 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

the merchants of a doubloon each for our services, and 
as a sort of bribe to keep silence. 

The third day after I shipped on board we set sail. 
This was quite the latter part of May, 1838. Mr. Evans 
(mate) came on board in a state of intoxication, which 
was the cause of hard words between him and the cap- 
tain, who was a person capable of the highest degree 
of excitement. The captain becoming enraged, seized 
a spyglass and hurled it at the mate, striking him on the 
head and brought him to the deck; collecting himself, 
he passed it back in the same way, but missed his aim. 
Exasperated to a still greater degree, the captain rushed 
to the cabin and brought forward a pair of pistols, in- 
tending to shoot the mate down. His wife being aboard, 
and seeing by his manner there was likely to be trouble, 
rushed up first and placed herself between him and the 
mate, bidding him fire if he chose. A moment sufiiced 
to cool him down in a measure, and the matter was 
dropped by putting the mate off duty for ten days. 

We came to anchor at the Gulf of Tehuantepec, or 
the roadstead of Rosario, and moored with a swivel. — 
We sent down the top-gallant msrsts and yards, and got 
ready to take on a cargo at Nicaragua. 

The shore at this place as well as most others on the 
Mexican coast is almost inaccessible, from the high 
rolling surf, w^hich at this time was altogether so for 
the boats. There are but few harbors in Mexico; con- 
sequently v\re anchored the long boat out about sixty 
fathoms from the beach, and erected a capstan on the 
shore; a block was fastened to the bow of the boat, 
through which a hawser was passed, which also went 
around the capstan on shore, thus forming a continuous 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 201 

line from the boat to the shore. Natives were employed 
to lash the wood, which is cut in sticks about four feet 
long, to one side of the hawser and pull upon the other, 
and thus convey it to the boat, where men were stationed 
to untie and load it into other boats, and then to the 
ship. This wood is very rough, and full of holes and 
crevices, into which scorpions, centipedes, and a small 
blue snake, of five or six inches in length, crawl. On 
removing or handling it, they run out and bite the first 
object that comes in their way or happens to touch 
them. 

The bite or sting of the scorpion is said to prove fatal 
many times in two hours; their bite in the spring and 
summer months are said, by Pike, to be much more 
suddenly fatal. He also says, in speaking of them as 
found in other portions of Mexico : ^' remove them three 
leagues and they become perfectly harmless and lose 
all their venomous qualities." As a preventive we took 
three bottles of spirits, (old rum) and put a scorpion in 
one, a centipede in another, reserving the third for the 
snake ; they were put in alive and allowed to die in the 
spirits. These to be used by applying the spirits of the 
respective bottles to the wounds of the different species. 
Fortunately for us but one was bitten, which was cured 
by immediate application of the spirits. 

A disturbance arose to our quiet one day between the 
captain and one of the crew, which resulted in throwing 
the sailor on shore, one hundred miles nearly from a 
habitation of any kind, except temporary ones erected 
by the natives who came from Acapulco, 100 miles dis- 
tant, to cut and deliver the wood to ships. Seeing a 
shipmate thus turned off, without clothes except those 



202 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

worn off, with no particular means of subsistence, was 
more than I could endure, and I resolved to assist him. 
The next morning I went to the long boat as usual, 
taking with me two shirts and a pound of tobacco rolled 
up as compactly as possible. Getting to the boat I 
jumped over and swam as far as I could, then caught 
hold of the hawser for the surf or swells to pass me ; 
dropping into the smooth sea I exerted every nerve to 
reach the shore before the next sea ; this I was unable 
to do. Soon the next swell was upon me, and by its 
impetus I was thrown high upon the sand insensible. 
The natives took me up and rubbed me for a long time 
before I could be brought to a state of consciousness, 
when they gave me some spirits to drink, and in a few 
hours I was enabled to walk out. 

At night the ship's boat was sent to take me off; the 
surf running so high rendered it impossible to do so, 
only by rowing above about five miles to a small cove. 
Going on board I met the captain at the gangway, who 
said: 

^^ Well, boy, how is that old pelt of yours? have you 
got it scorched any ? " 

^^No, sir " said I; ^^I have had too much experience 
in that business, to have the sun effect me any more 
than it does an alligator ! " 

Having finished our cargo we weighed anchor, double 
reefed our top-sails, set our course and stood off*. Our 
vessel being a fast sailer, and the Avind blowing a half 
gale from the west, soon brought us abreast of Panama. 
Being in want of ship stores, we put into the bay of the 
same name, and came to anchor. Sent a boat on shore 
and procured a supply of water, which was of the finest 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 203 

quality, and necessary stores, and were again ready for 
sea. 

The afternoon previous to sailing we were allowed 
on shore, when we fell in with a company of soldiers 
belonging to the fort. With them we drank several 
times. Finding at length I was growing quite stupid — 
an effect altogether different from what liquor usually 
produces on me, I was confident it had been drugged 
for some purpose. Seeing the sad dilemma into which 
we were hastening, I proposed to walk out and work it 
off if possible. But we were already within their 
clutches. They followed and easily prevailed upon us 
to visit the fort to ^' enjoy a view of it by lamplight." 
I was conscious they were imposing upon us, still I 
could not stop ; their serpent-like charms were success- 
fully thrown around me ; to resist I could not. They 
led us in and about the fort, pointing out its particular 
points of combined beauty and strength. We thought 
no more of duties on ship-board, or of our situation, till 
a late hour at night, when the effects of the drugs were 
leaving us. 

In the morning the true nature of our situation found 
itself upon us. With apparent satisfaction we sent out 
for a bottle of spirits, which was soon brought to us. On 
looking around a little we found others decoyed and 
confined in a like manner ; among them was a stout, 
seven-foot Irishman. We gave him a good supply of 
spirits, and then held up to his view the great wrong 
we as well as himself had sustained. Gradually the 
true Irish blood was seen to work in his bosom, as he 
reflected upon his situation and wrongs, until he became 
perfectly exasperated. Clenching his fists, he said : 



201 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

'^ An' sure we '11 be after leaving this place, we will." 

He became violent in threatenings. The guard hearing 
a noise, came to learn the cause. Soon as the door was 
opened, the guard was seized and hurled by his arm, 
(now rendered doubly powerful by alcohol and anger.) 
half way across the yard. Others following closely up, 
were passed along also, till half a dozen were thus 
promiscuously piled up, scarce knowing how to find 
themselves. With a mighty effort we then rushed over 
those that stood outside the door, who in their dismay 
knew not what to do till so late that action would have 
been fruitless. 

We ran as fast as possible to the beach and seized a 
boat, and went to the ship. Telling the mate of the 
adventure, he immediately lowered a boat and sent for 
the captain, who was on shore; meanwhile he got the 
anchor up and was ready for sea. 

The captain coming aboard, we bid farewell to Pan- 
ama, leaving our harbor fees unpaid. 

What became of the Irishman I never knew, as he 
took a different course from the rest of us after leaving 
the fort. 

Nothing of note occurred until we were off the coast 
of Peru and dropped our anchor at Callao, the seaport 
of Lima, the capital of Peru, which is situated seven 
miles from the shore. After the ship was well secured, 
a ride was proposed to Lima, in which several of us 
joined. We proceeded to a stable in which were a great 
number of horses, trained to the saddle alone. Each 
procured one by paying a dollar in advance, with which 
a ticket also was obtained for entrance into the city. 
Those horses were so well trained that they required 



OF WILLUM TORREY. 205 

no guidance whatever ; by simply throwing the hne 
upon the neck loosely, they set off into a fine gallop, 
which they held till they reached the city. 

On starting we received an urgent injunction to '-look 
well to the saddle/' they care but little about the horse. 
Arriving at the gates of the city, a centry appeared who 
demanded our tickets, which, after examining, he handed 
back and allowed us to pass on. The horses setting oft' 
at full gallop soon brought us to another stable, which 
is connected with the one at which we obtained our 
horses. Here we dismounted, giving ourselves no far- 
ther trouble about them. We wandered around the city 
as long as we chose. When returning to the stable we 
found our horses refreshed, with no additional expense, 
and ready to take us back to Callao. 

The waters of the Rimac, on which Lima is situated, 
are clear and transparent. The city is four miles long, 
by two broad, and is surrounded by brick walls, which 
are heavily mounted with cannon. 

This city, next to Mexico, is the finest built by the 
Spaniards in the New World; its streets are straight 
and handsome: the houses are built only of one story, 
on account of earthquakes by which they are frequent- 
ed. Lima was founded by Pizarro in 1534, and by him 
called Los Reges^ or the ^^City of the Kings." Like 
all other Spanish cities, Lima has a great square in the 
centre, where all the principal streets terminate. On 
this square the principal public buildings stand; such 
as the cathedral, the university, the treasury, the arsenal, 
and the town hall. 

The churches and convents are still beautiful, though 

robted of vast wealth during the last revolution. It 
18 



206 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

is estimated that about one-fourth of the population are 
whites. 

Leaving Callao we had a fine breeze, set studding- 
sails alow and aloft. When abreast Valparaiso, the 
wind veered around into the south and blew a stiff 
breeze, which obliged us to lay off and on for a few days. 
The wind dying away, we put into the harbor of Val- 
paraiso, which is the most singular one I ever entered. 
The water is of vast depth, being upwards of fifty 
fathoms within a short distance of the town. We spent 
some little time on shore, which we enjoyed very finely 
indeed ; found the natives kind and hospitable. The 
men follow the European fashion of dress, while the 
females adhere strictly to that of Peru. Many of the 
common and lower classes wear the ponsha, which is 
simply a large cloth with a hole in it for the neck. In 
the use of the lasso they equal if not excel any other 
people, throwing it with the greatest precision. Children 
at an early age practice the lasso upon poultry and cats, 
which they throw with unerring aim. 

By the gradual change in the temperature of the at- 
mosphere we were forcibly reminded of nearness to the 
Cape, which we were again to double. Finding the 
quantity of spirits on hand insufiicient as we then 
thought for the occasion, we told the captain we would 
not double the Cape with so small a supply. Against 
this he remonstrated. We urged him to compliance. 

After spending a week at Valparaiso, we left the har- 
bor and stood at sea with a fair wind from the west ; 
thus we ran about thirty-six hours, when the wind 
hauled into the north. 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 

" Dreary and hollow moans foretold a gale ; 
Nor long the issue tarried ; then the wind, 
Unprisoned, blew its trumpet loud and shrill ; 

* * * * the rain 

Came down like music.'' 

The fore and main royals were clewed up ; the breeze 
still freshening, we clewed up and :• towed the fore and 
main-top-gallant sails, running thus until near daylight^ 
when we single reefed the top-sails. At twelve that day, 
were under close reefed main-top-sail and reefed fore- 
sail, bounding along at the rate of twelve knots per hour. 
Thus we ran until we sighted Terra del Fuego. As we 
hauled around the Cape the wind seemed to follow us ; 
the sea ran quarterly on the vessel and very high. 

A heavy sea struck us on our quarter, and hove her 
on her beam ends ; immediately letting go the fore sheet 
relieved her, and again she righted, broaching to as she 
done so. Hauling up and stowing her fore-sail, we hove 
her to. headed towards the Atlantic. The wind again 
shifted into the south-west, and abated somewhat, still 
the sea ran high indeed. We made all sail possible and 
drove her through the swells ; sometimes she would 
scoop up water with her bows and throw it off a-stern, 
washing the men about deck in spite of all efforts to the 
contrary. 

The weather was intensely cold, and, had we been 
compelled to have staid there much longer, I fear we 
should have frozen to death, for our clothes were already 
stiff with ice. 

The wind continued in the southward till we reached 
the entrance of St. George's Channel: cast lead and 
found sixty fathoms of water ; then bearing full, we saw 



208 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

Cape Clear in a few hours. The wind heading us blew 
down the channel for three days, during which we could 
make no progress at all. This seemed indeed tedious, 
being so near our port of destination. The wind spring- 
ing up, and all sail set, we ran up the channel for Liv- 
erpool ; took in a pilot at Holy Head, who hove us to at 
the Old Alms Head that night, and took us in the next 
morning. 

As we came along the pier head we hired men to 
secure the sails, such was our anxiety to be on shore. 
The next day we were paid off, and took our chests to 
the boarding-house. 

Liverpool, at the mouth of the Mersey, on the Irish 
Sea, is an important commercial city, being next to 
London, the greatest port in the British empire. 

It is situated from Manchester thirty-six miles, and 
two hundred and four from London. The city is irreg- 
ularly built, but the public buildings are elegant. 

The Exchange is double the size of the Royal Ex- 
change of London, and cost the immense sum of 
£100,000. 

The Town Hall is another noble edifice. 

Liverpool is the grand medium through which the 
trade of England with Ireland and with this country is 
carried on ; and a vast quantity of business is transact- 
ed by its merchants with the ports of the Mediterranean, 
East Indies, and other parts of the world. Cotton is 
the leading article of import, and is extensively used in 
the manufactures of Lancashire, of which, in 1830, out 
of 793,695 bales imported into England, 703,200 were 
brought into Liverpool. 

The duties paid at the custom-house of Liverpool in 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 209 

1837, were four millions, three hundred and fifty-one 
thousand, four hundred and ninety-six pounds, being 
about a fifth of those paid throughout the whole king- 
dom. 

Liverpool is the greatest outlet for the goods manu- 
factured in Lancashire and Yorkshire, for sale in Amer- 
ica. The town, thus so extensively concerned in that 
commerce from which England derives its chief glory, 
presents many external features not unworthy of its 
mercantile character. Of these the chief are the docks, 
the sight of which, bristling with numberless masts, and 
a scene of constant bustle from loading and unloading, 
fills a stranger with amazement. The town contains 
several handsome streets, the chief being Castle street 
and Dale street. There are many well conducted char- 
itable institutions. About fifteen hundred patients are 
admitted annually in the infirmary. 

The Blue-Coat hospital maintains and educates about 
two hundred boys and girls. 

The school for the blind is on a most extensive scale. 

A handsome and spacious theatre, and a circus, are 
open during a great p?crt of the year. 

At the Royal Liverpool Institution, public lectures 
are given ; and attached to it is a philosophical appara- 
tus and a museum of natural curiosities. 

A Botanic Garden was established in 1801, at the ex- 
pense of about ten thousand pounds. 

Among the remarkable objects connected with the 
town, the ornamental cemetery of St. James, formed out 
of an old stone quarry, is worthy of particular notice. 



18=«^ 



210 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Proceed to New Brunswick. Encounter a severe storm. Conne 
near losing the ship. Arrived at Delhouse. Sickness of the au- 
thor* Bleeds hinaself. His end apparently approaches. Tinaely 
assistance. Sails for Quebec. Description of the Citadel. A 
sketch of its history. 

1'^^^ REMAINED at Liverpool only a few days, 
^ wf c when I shipped on board the barque Asia, 



m 



7^^ d Capt. Hannah, (a Scotchman) as second mate. 
^ru\nf\A> "Ten days from the time of my arrival on the 
Tammercee we weighed anchor and put to sea, bound 
for Delhouse, N. B. 

We proceeded down the channel with a head wind 
until abreast the Tuscan hght, when the wind favoring 
us, we soon lost sight of the land. 

We had a good passage until we reached the New 
Foundland banks. These are immense sand banks or 
shoals which greatly endanger the safety of vessels 
bound thither. In the spring of the year they are cov- 
ered Avith ice which washes down the Davis straits from 
the more frozen regions. Then it is, that ships are 
obhged to lay to, during the night. 

The wind now hauled round from the northwest and 
blew a complete hurricane for about six hours, when it 
abated and fell into a calm. During- the calm, we 
caught several codfish and halibut. 

The dense fog which arose was a sure omen of a 
southerly wind. For this we made ready. The wind 



OF WILLI AIvI TORRE Y. 211 

came at length like a ^' cat's jjaw^^ upon the water. Sails 
were trimmed, studding-sails set, &c. The wind in- 
creased every moment, and in the course of two hours 
we were obliged to take in the studding-sails, and top- 
gallant-sails, and in the course of three hours were un- 
der close reefed main-top-sail and fore-sail. Thus we 
run until the captain thought us to be in the Gulf of St. 
Lawrence; and about 12 o'clock at night altered our 
course one point. At 4 the next morniag I called the 
mate. I had scarcely laid my head on the pillow, when 
I heard the order, *' 'port your helm, put hard to port," 
and at the same time, '4iaul in the larboard braces, 
quick; bear a hand my good fellows or we are all on 
the beach." At this I sprung upon deck, with nothing 
on, save a shirt and a pair of drawers, and met the 
captain in the same dress as myself After the helm 
had been hard put to port, she came around on her 
keel, a thing which I never saw her do before. Had 
she not done so, we should have run on the beach at 
Cape Breton. This is a large island, separated from 
Nova Scotia by the straits of Canseau. It is about 100 
miles in length, and from 30 to 80 in breadth, and is 
divided into two nearly equal portions by an arm of the 
sea, called Bras. de. or. The fog was so dense that it 
was impossible to see more than one-fourth of a mile. 
Had not the high cliffs towered above the fog, which 
enabled those on the lookout to see them, we should in- 
evitably have been wrecked in this awful place. After 
the ship was headed off shore, the line was cast and 
we found only four fathoms water. Our ship was 
drawing 18 feet, so that the heaving of the sea caused 
her to come within a few inches of the bottom. 



212 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

For a few moments the greatest fear was depicted on 
every countenance, but so accustomed are the mariners 
to danger, that perils past cause no forebodings. They 
being soon forgotten, they rush on to new dangers. 

Considerable difficulty arose about the regular allow- 
ance of spirits, which was three glasses per day. But 
the sailors now swore they would not work, unless they 
might be allowed to have four. So desperate were they 
grown that one of them struck the mate. I was stand- 
ing near, and sprang and dealt the fellow a blow under 
the ear, which sent him headlong upon the deck, where 
he lay several minutes. On getting up, he asked me 
why I struck him. I told him, that blow was the 
promptings of pure love ; to which he replied, ^' if that 
is the way you love, I want no more of it." He then 
went forward about his business, with his jaw so bruised 
that it was several days before he could eat his regular 
allowance. 

After we came to anchor at the ballast ground, off 
Delhouse, after a passage of thirty days, and were dis- 
charging our cargo, consisting of oakum, wheat, rum, 
tobacco, bale goods, iron and nails, which was carried 
on shore on lighters, all of the seamen became intox- 
icated to such a degree as to be utterly unable to per- 
form duty. When it was ascertained that they stole the 
liquor from the ship and took it on shore, they all went 
below and refused to do duty unless the captain would 
sign a paper freeing them from embezzlement, and con- 
tinuing their wages to them. This they knew he would 
readily do, as the cold weather was coming on, which 
made him extremely anxious to get away, lest he 
should be caught in the ice, and be under the necessity 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 213 

of remaining during the winter, which he would have 
been obliged to do, had they left, for hands could not be 
procured to do the work. After the paper was signed 
they went to their duty. 

When the ballast was discharged, we hauled the ship 
to her berth and commenced taking in lumber. One 
night the raft of timber, (composed of logs about 75 in 
number) broke loose from the chain to which it was 
fastened. The mate, hearing the noise, called to me, 
as I had charge of it, saying, ^'the raft has broken 
adrift." I sprang from my berth and called the men to 
assist me, but called in vain. No one, save an old 
Frenchman, would venture upon the raft to assist me. 
I had nothing on but the clothes I slept in, (I usually 
slept in cold weather with my drawers and stockings 
on,) save my cap. We found the logs getting loose 
from each other, as well as from the ship. The wind 
blew from the northwest very hard, blowing the water 
all over us. 

Thus we worked with our clothes stiff with ice for 
nearly three hours. After we had secured the timbers, 
we went on deck. I took a stick and beat the ice from 
my drawers, shifted myself throughout, drank nearly a 
half pint of hot sling, and went to my berth. 

The next day I was very sore and stiff; the night fol- 
lowing I experienced some pain in my side, got up, and 
walked the deck; vomited several times. I grew grad- 
ually worse until I could not breathe without a sort 
of catch or twitching, which was extremely painful. 
When I lay down, I could not rise again without as- 
sistance. 

When mornmg came a physician came on board and 



214 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

bled me, which afforded great relief. He came again 
in the afternoon of the same day, and learning that the 
captain was going to sail soon, he told him if he carried 
me to sea, it would be the death of me, as I was most 
severely attacked with pleurisy, and must have medical 
aid immediately. 

I was taken on shore to a house, where I remained 
seven days, seeing my sick nurse only four times, he 
leaving me some soup. 

The vessel left the harbor the next day after I went 
on shore, being driven out by the ice, with the loss of 
an anchor and part of the cable. 

One day the old Frenchman who assisted me on the 
raft, came to see me. I told him how I had been neg- 
lected, and shaking his head, he said it was too bad, 
and that I should not stay there, and then left the room. 
After an hour or two he returned with a horse and 
sleigh, assisted me into it and drove a distance of five 
miles, to the house of a French lady, where I remained 
six weeks. 

This kind lady, although an entire stranger, took a 
mother's care of me, at the same time knowing not that 
she should ever be compensated for it. Her many kind- 
nesses I can never forget. 

I inquired of the doctor if there was any money in 
the treasury at Delhouse. He said there was, and 
seemed astonished that I had not made application for 
it. He then wrote a certificate, stating that I had been 
left, at the advice of a physician, by the barque Asia, of 
Liverpool, and was still under his care. This being 
presented to the treasury brought me a guinea per week 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 215 

during the time I should remain under the care of a 
physician. 

This fund is raised by reserving one shilling per 
month from the wages of all seamen that sail in British 
vessels. In every port of any considerable note a hos- 
pital is erected, in others a fund is deposited, to be ex- 
pended in case of sickness of any of her majesty's 
subjects. 

At the expiration of six weeks, I had so far recovered 
as to be able to walk a short distance to the neighbors 
in pleasant weather. My appetite was getting to be 
very good, and in fact, I considered myself almost 
well. 

One day Mrs. Prosper, (my kind nurse's name) wish- 
ing to go to Delhouse, asked me to go with her. Wrap- 
ping myself up warmly, we started. On arriving at 
Delhouse, I went to the public house and remained 
while she was doing her business. On our return I got 
a little chilly. This with the fatigue of the ride (which 
proved too much for me) quite overcame me, and oblig- 
ed me to take to bed again. I called for the doctor. A 
boy was sent for him, but returned, saying, that the 
doctor was also confined to his bed. I almost gave up 
in despair. There I was with a second and more severe 
attack of pleurisy, without medical aid. Mrs. Prosper 
aided by her sister (who with me were the only mem- 
bers of the family) did all in their power to assist me. 
The pain I experienced was almost beyond endurance. 
I found the roots of my finger nails were purple, the 
blood having settled there. The veins on my arms and 
hands were full almost to bursting. I called Mrs. Pros- 
per, who, when she saw me, said to her sister, ^^he will 



216 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

not live long." This I understood, although spoken in 
French, and it came to my ears like thunder. Thus to 
die, away from my childhood's home, with none save 
the friends of an hour to soothe me, in my last mo- 
ments. 

Then, as in every other time of danger, did I regret 
the step 1 had taken in leaving home, and resolved, 
that should my life be again spared, I would hasten to 
the home from which I had been absent nearly nine 
years, (to which 1 had pledged myself I would never 
return) and forget the petty occurrence that forced me 
from those to whom I was bound by the nearest and 
dearest ties. I called for a small knife which was in 
my vest pocket, resolved to make a desperate effort to 
save myself from the death which seemed so near. 
After being raised up in bed, I bled myself in the left 
arm, and then taking the knife in my left hand opened 
a vein in my right arm. Such was the pressure of blood 
that it flew all over the room. The women seeing what 
I had done, left the house screeching at the top of their 
voices. I lay literally weltering in my own blood. The 
blood left my finger nails, the pains ceased, and I was 
perfectly easy, still conscious that my end was near. 

To fully describe my situation, my pen is inadequate, 
and I must leave the reader to imagine for himself my 
situation, forsaken as I was by every person from whom 
assistance could be had, and bleeding profusely, with no 
means to check it. 

So much was I reduced, that I was about falling into 
a sleep from which I never should have awoke. At this 
moment an old Scotchman (a quaker) who had occa- 
sionally visited me, aroused by the cries of the women, 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 217 

came into the room and asked what was the matter. I 
was too feeble to answer, but cast my eyes about the 
room, signifying, look for yourself. He left the room, 
but soon returned with some pebbles which he took from 
a spring near the house, and bound them on my arms, 
thus checking the blood. He then went in search of 
Mrs. Prosper, whom he reprimanded for leaving me. 
(By the way she supposed me attempting suicide.) 

I was removed on a sheet, and the bed which was 
wet through with blood was changed, and I was laid 
again upon it. There I remained nine days motionless 
and speechless and almost senseless and lifeless. The 
third day the doctor had so far recovered as to visit me. 
On hearing the situation I was in, he said the bleeding 
was the only thins: that would have saved me. He told 
Mrs. Prosper that it was very doubtful about my getting 
up again. 

Leaving some medicine, he left the house. Instead of 
giving me the medicine he left, Mrs. Prosper procured a 
dozen bottles of the best Port wine, to which she added 
one pound of Peruvian bark. I drank a wine-glass full 
night and morning. Several times during the day my 
mouth was washed or moistened with a sponge satur- 
ated with the wine. 

One morning the sister of Mrs. Prosper came into the 
room, and with tears in her eyes, bade me an affection- 
ate farewell, saying she was going away and should not 
see me again. Seeing her so affected at my situation, I 
could not refrain from shedding tears also. Seeing me 
shed tears, she considered it ominous of my recovery. 

Each day I found I had additional strength, and with 
19 



218 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

the best care was, at the expiration of three weeks, en- 
abled to sit up a few moments at a time. 

I was obliged to keep the doctor along, for the mo- 
ment he left me my pay from government was stopped. 

Now for the first time since my sickness did I attempt 
to acquaint my friends with my situation. (I had writ- 
ten several times from Liverpool and other places, but 
received no answer.) To this I received no reply, and 
at the expiration of four weeks, wrote again. This also 
was unnoticed. 

I then made up my mind that the circle which once 
welcomed me as the only son and brother, had resolved 
to disown me. This, to a repentant wanderer, occasion- 
ed many an hour of sadness. 

I resolved that should I ever so far recover as to be 
able to find them, to cast myself upon them, begging 
them to receive back their son and brother, who had 
almost cursed the hour that separated him from them. 

The doctor visited me every day, and at each visit 
left an additional supply of medicine. This he contin- 
ued till about the first of March; at the expiration of 
which time I found myself in possession of drugs 
enough for a wholesale Apothecary establishment, the 
doctor, meanwhile, supposing I had pursued his direc- 
tions. 

I was at length left upon my own resources, for the 
doctor, pronouncing me free from his care, stopped my 
funds. 

One neighbor, building a schooner offered me the job 
of making the sails, which busied me until the 1st of 
April, when I went on board a schooner bound to due- 
bee. 



OF WILLIAM TORPwEY. 219 

The capital of Canada and of British America, is 
situated on a bold promontory, at the confluence of the 
St. Lawrence and St. Charles, (or Little River,) about 
350 miles from the sea. The basin or harbor of Quebec 
is sufficiently large to contain 7.5 or 100 sail of the line. 

Accidentally becoming acquainted with an officer of 
the 15th Reg. of H. M. troops, then stationed there, I 
was enabled to visit parts, which to most visitors would 
be inaccessible. Quebec, the strongest town in Amer- 
ica, and the strongest in the world, except Gibraltar, is 
built on a rock, which is partly of marble, and partly of 
slate, and is divided into Upper and Lower Towns. 

At the time it was founded, 1608, it is said the tide 
washed the rock; since that time the river has sunk 
away so far as to leave a large spot of dry ground on 
which stands the Low^er Towm. The houses of both 
towns are of stone, and well built. The fortifications 
are extensive but irregular. The natural situation of 
the town renders its defence easy ; the lofty, perpendicu- 
lar rocks, on the southeast, constitute in themselves an 
insurmountable barrier. The river St. Charles, with 
its shallow w^ater, and low flats of sand, and mud 
drained almost dry, by the ebbing of the tide, forms an 
obstacle difficult to be encountered in the erection of 
commanding works, or to the location of ships on the 
east and north ; and even, should the water allow ships 
to come up, their guns could not injure in the least the 
works of the Upper Town, while they would subject 
themselves to great danger from the cannons and bombs 
of those elevated ramparts. The only accessible point 
is on the southwest from the plains of Abraham, where 
there is no barrier of rocks, no river, ravine, or marsh, 



220 LIFE AND ADVEXTORES 

or Other natural impediments to an enemy's approach, 
which deficiency is suppHed by walls and towers. The 
distance across from one river to the other is nearly a 
mile; the average diameter is three-fourths of a mile. 
A complete wall of hewn stone encircles the town, and 
is furnished with strong massy arches and gates, and 
with deep ditches. The walls vary much in height as 
well as in thickness; everywhere however, they are 
high enough to render escalade very difficult, and a 
breach almost hopeless. In the strongest part, next the 
plains, they are about fifty feet high, and about an 
equal thickness; even the lofty precipice of naked 
rock is surmounted with stone walls and cannon, and 
the highest points are covered with towers and distinct 
batteries; and generally the curtains of the walls are 
looped for musketry; and projecting bastions present 
their artillery to the assailants, raking the ditches imme- 
diately adjacent to the inner walls. This innner wall, 
as I have already remarked, is about fifty feet thick. 
Besides this, there is another wall and ditch, which 
both must be scaled before the inner or main wall can 
be approached. A party would be most dreadfully ex- 
posed while mounting this exterior wall. The avenue 
to the gate St. Louis, which opens to the plains, is 
bounded on both sides by high walls, which make sev- 
eral turns in zigzag, and at every turn cannon point 
directly to the approacher. In every possible direction, 
where the walls can be approached, large guns are 
ready to meet the assailants. The highest point of the 
rock is called Cape Diamond, and upon it is erected the 
famous citadel of Quebec. This is not, as one might 
suppose, a building or castle covered with a roof. It is 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 221 

open, and differs only from the rest of the works by 
being more elevated, and therefore more commanding. 

The highest part of the citadel is Brock's Battery, 
which is mounted with cannon pointed towards the 
plains. Within the walls are numerous magazines and 
stores of provisions of sufficient quantity to supply the 
town for a term of years. Piles of cannon balls every 
where meet the eye. Beyond the avails, on the plains, 
are the four martello Towers. They are solidly con- 
structed of stone, about forty feet high, and about the 
same diameter at the base. These are mounted with 
guns pointing towards the plains, and effectually com- 
manding it. The principal object of these is to prevent 
the enemy from obtaining possession of the high ground 
of the plains. The guns on these towers can only be 
made to bear one way towards the plains, so as to pre- 
vent, as in all other parts, the enemy, should they ob- 
tain possession of them, or any one part, from using 
their own arms against them. The side of the towers, 
towards the town, can be easily battered by the guns 
upon the walls. So, should an enemy get possession of 
the towers, they could be easily thrown from them. 

The city was founded by the French in 1608. In 
1629, the English reduced it with all Canada; but it 
was restored to the French in 1632. In 1711 it was 
again besieged by the English, but without success. 
It was again, in 1759, attacked and conquered, after a 
battle memorable for the death of Gen. Wolfe, v/ho fell 
in the moment of victory. As he was expiring in the 
arms of his soldiers he heard the cry of ''they fly." 
He raised his drooping head, and inquired '• Who fly?" 
being answered '' the French," he resigned himself 
19^^ 



222 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

back into the arms of a lieutenant, exclaiming, with his 
last breath, ''then I die in peace." By the peace of 
1763 this was confirmed to the English. In 1775, the 
Americans attacked it under Gen. Montgomery, who 
was slain, and his army repulsed with great loss. Great 
improvements have been made within a few years, and 
are still making, which render it so strong in its de- 
fences, that any attempt with any force whatever to 
take it, would prove a fruitless undertaking. 

The time allotted me (eight days) for staying at this 
place, was soon passed, giving me but little opportunity 
to examine minutely the many objects of wonder and 
curiosity. 




•^ 



OF WILLIAM TOREEY. 223 



CHAPTER XV. 

Sail in the Borneo for Limerick, A Man is found secreted on 
board. Conduct of the Captain. Sympathy of the Crew. Terri- 
ble Storm. Wretchedness of our Situation. Account of the loss 
of the Francis Spade. Singular occurrence. The Storm con- 
tinues. Reach the Shannon. The rolling of the Killserphine. 
Its Tradition. Reach Limerick. Sail for London. Sail for 
Egypt. Description of Gibraltar. Arrive at the quarantine 
ground off Alexandria. Go to the Dead Sea. Its description. 
Return to Alexandria. Curiosities and History of Egypt. Man- 
ners and Customs of the People. 

^%^^ SHIPPED on board the ship Borneo, Captain 
5 ^'gjf ^ Gorman of and for Limerick. We weighed 
? fii ^ ^^^^ anchor about the first of April, 1839, with 
^fuuxn^ ^ crew of twenty-four men, including officers. 
We had a very pleasant sail down the river. The third 
day after we stood out of Quebec, a man made his ap- 
pearance on board, who was a stranger to all excepting 
the captam and mate. The captain inquired how he 
came there; he replied that he belonged lo Killruch, 
and had offered him (the captain) all the money he had, 
which was less than the passage m.oney, and being 
very anxious to go home, was determined the ship 
should not leave without him ; consequently he watched 
an opportunity to secrete himself on board; and when 
the watch was on deck, or when the watch was below 
asleep, he Avould crawl from his hiding place to the 
store-room, where he would get enough to supply him 



S24 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

until another opportunity offered for him to get another 
supply. This he continued until the third day as men- 
tioned. The captain, after hearing his story, ordered 
the mate, who was an old schoolmate, and fellow asso- 
ciate of his, to tie him to the capstan, and pour cold 
Avater over him every half hour. This the mate re- 
fused to do to one to whom he was so strongly attached. 
The man as well as the captain insisted upon it ; still 
he refused. The crew then proposed to pay his pas- 
sage, which the captain accepted, and the man was 
released. 

Tiie wind blowing a fresh breeze soon brought us in 
sight of Newfoundland. The breeze freshening each 
moment, soon became a perfect gale. The captain 
thought best to run through the straits of Bellisle — the 
channel that separates New Foundland from Labrador 
— passing through in the night during the first watch. 
We stowed the main sky-sail, and fore, main and mizzen 
royals, also tried the pumps. About midnight, the cry 
of ^' all hands ahoy.'^ ^' Bear a hand up, and reef top- 
sails." The three top-sails were reefed, and the top- 
gallant sails set over them, and the mainsail furled. 
When this was done, the whiskey, as was usual in 
those days in such times, was passed around. This 
occupied two or three hours, when we went below 
again. At four we were called again, this being a new 
or second w^atch. The order, ''clew up the top-gallant 
sails and stow them," was quickly obeyed, when 
another, '"lay aft my lads, spHce the main brace," 
(meaning, take another round of whiskey,) ''man your 
top-sails, reef tackles and clew lines, lower away your 
halyards roundly. When all is done, lay aloft and reef 



OF WILLUM TORREY. 225 

your sails.'' Soon the seven bells called the watch to 
breakfast. The ship at this time was laboring very 
heavy under the press of canvass. The wheel got the 
advantage of the helmsman, and in an instant broached 
to ; at the same time a heavy sea boarding her, swept 
the caboose clear from the deck, leaving the cooking 
apparatus, it being strongly secured by large bolts to 
the deck, or we should have lost our whole breakfast; 
as it was it was hardly worth eating, being wet with 
salt water. 

The ship was soon got before the wind again; the 
pumps were examined, and seven feet of water found in 
the hold. The pumps were rigged, and all hands were 
obliged to take tlieir turn at them. The ship was 
heavily deck loaded, which rendered it very crank, or, 
in other words, easily to be upset ; as well as made it 
extremely difficult to go about on deck to work the ship, 
and making it altogether unsafe, as there was nothing 
to prevent our being washed overboard. We lashed 
ourselves to the railing around the mainmast, and thus 
we stood for twenty-four hours, having nothing to eat 
but a few hard biscuit, taking a glass of whiskey as 
often as every half or three-fourths of an hour. The 
gale still increased, — the sea under our stern would 
raise the ship to such a height, that for a moment it ap- 
peared as if she would go over in end ; then she would 
fall again, and for a moment be engulphed between two 
high seas apparently fifty or sixty feet high, when they 
would come again with seemingly greater fury. When 
rising this wave, it appeared as if the ship went at the 
rate of 14 or 16 knots an hour. Keeping the pumps at 
work constantly, we were enabled to check the increase 



226 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

of the water ; but still so great was the leakage, that we 
could not decrease the quantity already in the hold. 
This was truly discouraging. Whiskey was dealt out 
freely, which served in some degree to drive away the 
fear of the moment. 

One night, when under close reefed main-top-sail and 
fore-sail, with two men at the wheel, our ship broached 
to, or suddenly turned to the windward of her course, 
which presented her side to the wind, and greatly en- 
dangered her upsetting. At this time all hands were 
aloft, reefing and securing the sails that had blowu 
adrift from the yards. Those that were at that time 
from the mast, upon the yards, sought safety by cling- 
ing to the yard, which brought them erect upon the 
same. Others, that were near the masts, lay at, or were 
in a horizontal position. While she lay upon her beam 
ends, a heavy sea boarded her, sweeping the hurricane 
house, bed, and bedding of the second mate, spare sails, 
ropes, and six casks of meat, clear from the deck, and 
disabling one of the men at the wheel. At length she 
righted, quite to the disappointment of all on board; for 
we all expected she was lost. In this condition we lay, 
drifting at the mercy of the wind and Avaves twelve 
hours, when we loosed the fore-sail and fore top-mast- 
stay-sail after goose winging (or fastening the clew or 
lower corner of the sail, while the middle is secured or 
fastened to the yard) the fore-sail and boarding the fore- 
tacks, set the slay-sails, and put the helm hard up. 
She payed off a little, and shivering the maiil-top-sail, 
we were soon before the wind again, running at the rate 
of 12 or 15 knots per hour. The wind abating some- 
v/hat, allowed us to make a little sail. Our top-sails 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 227 

and fore-top-mast-studding-sails were set on both sides, 
A squall suddenly arose, blowing our fore-top-mast stud- 
ding sails from the yards and braces, the fore-top-sail 
was in an instant torn from the bolt rope, leaving only 
a few fragments hanging to it. 

At the time the squall arose all hands were at the 
pumps, and six only could possibly be spared to secure 
the sails that the wind had left hanging to the yards, 
or to cut the fragments of those torn from the ropes, 
clear. Being one of this number, I hastened to perform 
the order. As I came up over the run, I saw a Russian 
in the attitude of prayer. I stopped a moment, not 
wishing to interfere with his devotion. Another of the 
crew soon came up, and going up to the Russian while 
yet upon his knees, gave him a hearty kick in the ribs ! 
at the same time advising him with oaths and impreca- 
tions, to put oflf his praying until better weather, and 
attend to the safety of the ship. We succeeded, though 
at the peril of our lives, in securing the sails. Our con- 
dition was now indeed wretched, seemingly the worst 
that could be pictured. 

The crew upon whom the management of our now 
half water-logged ship devolved, were much worn with 
fatigue and hunger, having nothing to eat save what 
we took raw and wet, there being no place to cook any- 
thing, as the water which constantly swept over the 
deck, rendered our attempts to build and support a fire 
fruitless. Consequently we ate raw pork and beef, with 
bread which had been completely wet through with salt 
water. 

To add to our almost insupportable suffering, the 
deck, by the constant straining and tossing of the ship, 



228 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

leaked so badly that every article of clothing, bed and 
bedding, were completely drenched, so that we were 
not only destitute of an occasional dry suit, but were 
deprived of a dry and comfortable place in which to 
rest ourselves, when for a moment we could in turns be 
spared from the arduous duties of our situation. 

In giving a just and accurate description of this, as 
well as every other storm at sea, the pen entirely fails. 
There can be no just conception of it, but by having it 
vividly impressed upon the mind, by keen, sensitive 
reality. 

The same Capt. Gorman, who had the command of 
our ship had a few years before, commanded one called 
the Francis Spade, and by his mismanagement, she 
water-logged, was dismasted, and lost. The crew of that 
ill-fated vessel remained upon the wreck seven days 
in a state of starvation, their ship stores having been 
swept away. They at last resorted to the horrible ex- 
treme of casting lots, to see which should fall a victim 
to satisfy the hunger of the rest. The first lot fell upon 
a boy 12 or 15 years of age. Knowing his fate, Avith 
that degree of fortitude that characterized the martyrs 
of other days, he set about putting an end to his own 
life by bleeding. After trying in vain to open a vein in 
his arm, he called for a blanket, which he wrapped 
around his form ; then cutting a deep gash in the bot- 
tom of both feet, calmly laid himself down to meet the 
death which it was his lot to suffer. No sooner had the 
pulse ceased to beat, than the body was divided among 
the half famished crew, who with the rapacity of tigers 
fell to devouring it. Two other boys afterwards fell 
victims to the same fate. 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 229 

Some of our crew being rather superstitious, fancied 
they heard groans and deep sighs, when we were in the 
vicinity of the scene of the above related horrible trans- 
action. So firmly was the belief established in their 
minds, that nothing could dissuade them from it, and 
often would they mention it as an actual occurrence. 

In this situation we passed another night, hoping that 
the morning would bring relief Our hopes were not 
realized, but quite to the contrary, for the gale increased 
instead of abating. All hands were called to close-reef 
the main-top-sail, the pumps were obliged to be kept in 
constant operation, there having been seven feet of wa- 
ter in the hold since the first commencement of the 
gale. 

A heavy sea struck the ship and spun the wheel at 
which I was stationed, rapidly around, the spokes of it 
caught me under the jacket, throwing me heels over 
head and thrusting me head foremost through a partition 
of stout panel-work, Avhich left me senseless for a mo- 
ment. The captain being near caught the wheel and 
prevented the ship from broaching to, which it must 
have done and perhaps to our entire loss, had not timely 
assistance been offered. 

I was carried below, my shoulder bathed and placed 
in a sling — after the pain had subsided somewhat, 
I went to the pumps, working with one hand, thus 
relieving one man who could render assistance else- 
where. There I remained three days and two nights 
with but little cessation, when at the expiration of this 
time the gale abated. We saw the Skelligo light on 
the coast of Ireland and in a few hours we were 

20 



230 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

safely in the mouth of the river Shannon, which is nav- 
igated by large ships 200 miles. 

Here we took pilot and made sail up the river. Soon 
we were land-locked and could make no progress. All 
hands were called to bend a fore-top-sail, and while 
bending it, the pilot spoke, saying, ^^ we are in the Kill- 
serphine!^^ the captain replied that '^it was not the 
season for it to break." This was no sooner said, than 
a noise was heard like distant thunder, which caused 
all hands to look for its cause, when to our surprise we 
saw a heavy sea rolling half mast high, and coming 
directly towards us. 

The captain in agony of mind exclaimed. ^^My God! 
we are all lost!" 

The sea struck us, washing one of the men from the 
wheel, and filling the decks with water, but doing no 
dam-age save carrying away the carved work on the 
stern and the starboard quarter boat. This was follow- 
ed by one of less magnitude scarcely washing the deck. 
The third one beat lightly against the stern. 

This occasioned much surprise among the crew, for 
many of them knew not what it meant, having never 
before heard of such a place. 

Upon inquiry respecting it, I was informed by an 
Irishman, over whose head 90 winters, which he recol- 
lects, have passed, that once there was an island in the 
Shannon on which was a castle and other buildings, 
and that by the workings of nature that island grad- 
ually sunk away, until it disappeared entirely, and now 
each year the soundings are found to vary, there yet 
being a gradual sinking of the river's bottom. The 
water is now 11 or 12 fathoms deep. 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 231 

During each year, (it is said by those upon whom 
reliance can be placed) there are three swells or rollings 
of the sea, the same as those above described, and at no 
stated or regular times, often taking the mariner by sur- 
prise. This to the incredulous may seem to be unwor- 
thy of credit; but I have the testimony of hundreds to 
the truth of the same. The cause of this phenomenon 
I shall not attempt to state. 

We came to anchor about the middle of April, 1839. 
Seven of us were sent to the hospital, where I remained 
fourteen days, when getting my discharge, I went to a 
boarding-house where I remained only a few days, and 
then shipped on board the brig Bryanabbs of Limerick, 
Capt. Gorman, (a brother of the captain of the Borneo) 
bound for London, with wheat in bulk for cargo. We 
reached London the middle of May. 

There I remained but a short time, having a berth 
offered me on board the Bengal, Capt. Wright, bound 
for Alexandria. 

Getting before a fair wind we were soon in the Bay 
of Biscay, where we encountered a short though very 
severe gale of wind. Nothing occurred more than is 
usual in all gales. 

After the wind abated we again made sail and stood 
for Gibralter, where we touched for the purpose of get- 
ting some recruits, such as hogs, fowls, ifcc. 

Gibralter is situated upon a point of land at the south 
of Europe, on the north side of the Straits of Gibral- 
ter, which forms a communication between the Atlantic 
and Mediterranean sea. It belongs to Great Britain, 
and is undoubtedly the strongest fortress in the world, 
and is supposed to be impregnable. The length, from 



232 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

the Spanish line to the most southern pomt is three 
miles, and the circumference seven. No communica- 
tion can be held between the garrison of this fortress, 
and the rest of Spain, owing to a strongly fortified line 
drawn for the purpose by the Spaniards. 

The town is defended on the water side by a line of 
ramparts forming a continued fortification from the 
north and perpendicular side of the rock, to the extrem- 
ity of the Moors' wall, Avhich was built about the year 
one thousand. This wall divides the rock into two equal 
parts, running from the water's side up a very steep 
ascent. 

Since the time this wall was built, fortifications have 
been carried entirely round the rock, and works cut into 
the interior on the perpendicular side, which renders 
them impregnable. 

Since this place was captured by the English they 
have excavated the rock, forming galleries and caverns 
of several thousand feet in length, and in 9ase an en- 
emy should carry the outer works, the hesieged can 
retire to these subterraneous passages, and there hold out 
against an immensely superior force. 

These galleries are at an elevation of from 300 to 
1300 feet above the surface of the plain below. They 
are arranged in tiers, each forming a battery, of which 
there are 23 in number. Were a general battery of all 
the embrazures to take place at the same time, it would 
afford one of the grandest spectacles in the world. 

In every place where it is possible to make an attack 
even v/ith a small number of men, cannon are planted 
upon the surface of the rock, and these are at such an 
elevation, and the use of them so well understood, that 



or WILLIAM TORREY. 233 

the object aimed at is hit with as much certainty as 
with a fusee. 

Should the hues near the water be carried by an en- 
emy, they would have to dispute the ascent to the top 
of the mountain inch by inch, and should they even 
succeed in obtaining possession of the whole surface of 
the mountain, they would have to combat an army in 
the bowels of the rock against a thousand mines and 
other artifices, which would render the situation of the 
assailants very unsafe and dangerous. There are close 
quarters in the rocks for 1200 men, and provisions for 
three years, with a sufficient quantity of ammunition 
always stored there. 

Since the English took Gibralter in 1704, it has been 
repeatedly besieged but always without success. The 
combined forces of Spain and France laid siege to it in 
1779, and after four years of the most strenuous and 
powerful efforts to reduce it, were obliged to abandon 
the project, and withdraw. 

Thus much for a description of Gibralter, which I 
should not give at such length were it not a place of 
peculiar interest. 

We weighed our anchor once more for Alexandria. 
Nothing worthy of notice occurred on our passage. We 
came to anchor four or five miles from the town and 
were immediately boarded by an officer of customs and 
put under quarantine, although the captain was allowed 
on shore to attend to his business. At the expiration of 
the quarantine (ten days) we weighed anchor and stood 
further in shore. Capt. Wright seeing the impossibility 
of procuring a cargo of cotton and rice, proposed visit- 
mg the Dead Sea* 
29* 



234 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

The Consul, falling in with the idea, and wishing to 
go himself, procured for the journey horses and asses, 
the former for the use of the captain and officers, and 
the latter for the sailors and servants. 

We started, our company numbering about 30, with 
our provisions and baggage lashed upon the asses. Soon 
after crossing the Nile Ave came into a large prairie of 
tall grass through which was a straight and narrow 
path, only wide enough for one to ride at a time. After 
riding about 15 miles, we came to a little village, chiefly 
the residence of Copts, (a race of people generally con- 
sidered as the descendants of the ancient Egyptians, 
being of a light mulatto color, black eyes, high cheek 
bones, short nose, large mouth, thick lips and half 
wooly hair. Some of the females are exceedingly hand- 
some and of graceful and easy carriage.) Here we 
refreshed ourselves and horses, and amused ourselves 
by shooting birds of different kinds. 

After our horses were rested, we proceeded on our 
way, passing through a piece of woods heavily timbered 
about a mile in width. This wood was literally filled 
with birds of every description, some of them possessing 
musical powers far superior to many of the human fam- 
ily. Beyond this wood in the open field we found a 
large spring of most delightful clear cold water, with 
which we filled our skins. The day being nearly spent, 
we rode as fast as we could urge the animals along. 
The horses being more fleet than the asses, soon left 
them behind. It was impossible to increase their speed 
or even make them retain the old pace except by the 
most severe beatings. We rode until 11 o'clock before 
we could overtake those with the horses, when we found 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 235 

them quietly reposing under a thatched roof which had 
been built by some travelers, or some other persons and 
deserted. 

Here we all turned in together, if it could be called 
'• turning in" to camp down on the bare ground without 
blankets or other bed clothing to protect us from the 
night air, and musquitoes who were swarming around 
by thousands. We got but little rest. 

As soon as the light appeared in the east, we mounted 
and were on our journey again. About 9 o'clock we 
made a halt in a grove and took our morning repast. 
We soon crossed the great road which leads from Suez 
to Jerusalem. Here we made a stop and shot a few 
birds. While tarrying here a caravan of 40 camels 
came along from Suez bound to Joppa, laden with goods 
of all kinds. 

The traveling is usually done in caravans or armed 
bodies, as a safe-guard against the many robbers (who 
are usually wandering Arabs) who infest the country, 
capturing and sacking everything which comes in their 
way. 

We soon crossed a small river or creek, about two feet 
in depth, which the natives called the outlet of the Dead 
Sea, which led us into a large open country, with here 
and there a grove or cluster of trees. By the continual 
application of the clubs over the heads of our asses, we 
were enabled to keep a moderate pace, though not equal 
to that of the horses. 

The second night was passed similar to the first. On 
the morning of the third day we reached the point of 
our destination. 

The Dead Sea, or Lake Asphaltites as it is sometimes 



236 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

called, (from the great quantities of bituminous and in- 
flammable substance which are found floating on its sur- 
face) Hes in Palestine and is about 60 miles long and 15 
wide. It covers the ground on which stood the cities of 
Sodom and Gomorrah, buried according to history, by 
an earthquake, with frequent eruptions of fire, or ac- 
cording to Scriptural expression, by a '^ rain of sul- 
phur." 

Many superstitious prejudices have been entertained 
relative to the Dead Sea, which are entirely unfounded 
in truth. It has been said, that ^^ beautiful fruit grows 
upon its shores, which is no sooner touched, than it 
becomes dust and bitter ashes," that its waters prove 
destructive to animal life, and that numerous are the 
victims to the exhalation of the atmosphere in the vicin- 
ity. 

But on the contrary, I can assure my readers that this 
pretended ''fruit of ashes" is a natural and admirable 
production, that its waters swarm with myriads of 
fishes, and that certain birds make this lake their pecu- 
liar resort, and do not become " victims to its exhala- 
tions." Bodies sink or float in it according to the 
proportion of their gravity to the gravity of the water. 
The bituminous substance, called Asphaltas, which is 
found upon its surface, is thrown up from the bottom in 
a melted state by the agency of subterranean heat, and 
having become solid by the coldness of the water, is 
collected on the margin of the lake. This is a valuable 
article, and is much used for various purposes, in the 
United States. 

At the time of our visit, the surface of the sea was 
unrufled by a breeze, and as smooth as a mirror. We 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 237 

saw none of those clouds of vapor or smoke which are 
said to rise from the surface of the lake and from the 
neighboring mountain. Every thing about it was, in 
the highest degree, grand and awful. We approached 
* the shore, and here we found that the stones were of a 
combustible nature and would ignite by the application 
of a match, owing we supposed to their being covered 
with the bituminous substance. 

Among the various kinds of birds we found, there 
was one worthy of our particular attention. This is 
called the Sounding bird, and is of a dark gray color, 
and the size of the body will well compare with that of 
the New England pigeon. The head was as large as 
that of a common goose, and on the top of it is a semi- 
circular shell of about six inches in length and two in 
breadth, (at the top) and covered with a thin skin. 
This shell is hollow. These birds were such a curios- 
ity that we carried several of them back with us to the 
ship. 

After remaining at the sea thirty-six hours, we set out 
on our return. During the first day of our journey 
back, the officers kept us company; but on the morning 
of the second day they put spurs to their horses, and 
left us far behind. We rode all night, and arrived at 
Alexandria about five o'clock in the morning of the 
third day. Greatly fatigued with the journey, I went 
into a barn, or shed, and fell asleep on a pile of straw, 
where I remained until near sunset. As soon as I 
emerged from the shed, I was accosted by one of my 
shipmates with ^' Halloo ! where have you been this 
long time?" 

^^ Under the lee of a bundle of straw," I replied. 



238 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

''Well, all the Copts of Egypt have been searching 
for you/' said he, '^ until at last we concluded that you 
had fallen a victim to the poisonous atmosphere of the 
Dead Sea, and gone off yourself in evaporation. We 
therefore have got the cargo ready without your assist- 
ance ; but if you are still in a mortal state, and capable 
of hauling a rope, (as your refreshed appearance would 
indicate,) then bear a hand, for every thing is ready." 
We then went on board, where I found the cargo 
stowed ; consisting of cotton, ivory, gums, ifcc, and all 
things in preparation to weigh the anchor. 

I will in this place give my readers a brief description 
of some of the curiosities of Egypt ; and some general 
characteristics of the inhabitants, which come under my 
observation, during my stay in that country. Of all the 
wonders of this truly wonderful country, the ruins and 
antiquities which it contains, are perhaps the greatest. 
The mechanical labors and monuments of the ancient 
Egyptians are beyond the imitation of modern times. 

Among the many ruins of Alexandria, the most 
prominent are Pompey's Pillar, and Cleopatra's Needle. 
There are other magnificent remains, such as prostrate 
rows of marble columns, and mutilated capitals. Pom- 
pey's Pillar stands upon a pedestal twelve feet high. 
The shaft is round, and one hundred feet in height. 
The diameter is about nine feet. Cleopatra's Needle is 
sixty-four feet high, and eight feet square at the base. 
The shaft is granite, covered with hieroglyphics. 

There are a great number of Pyramids scattered over 
the country, but the most remarkable are those of 
Djizeh, Sakhara, and Darhour. The size of these is so 
great, that they appear to the spectator to be near at 



OF WILLIAM TOR BEY. 239 

hand, when he is many leagues distant from them. 
The account of Herodotus is, that ten years were con- 
sumed in preparing a road whereon to draw the im- 
mense blocks of stone ; and the labors of 100,000 men 
employed, who were relieved once in three months. 

The largest is ascribed to Cheops. It covers an area 
of eleven acres, and is four hundred and eighty feet 
high, one hundred and twenty-seven feet higher than 
the cross of St. Paul's, in London. The entrances to 
those pyramids which have been explored, descend at 
exactly the same angle, and at the same part of the 
fabric. Various passages and chambers have been dis- 
covered by great labor, and wells or shafts conducting 
from above to the lower apartments. The entrances 
are artfully concealed in the wall, thirty feet or less 
above the base. The passages were sometimes stopped 
with a solid block of granite, made, however, to slide 
upwards by the force of a lever. 

Immense chambers have been found in them, hewn 
from the solid rock. Belzoni found one forty-eight feet 
in length, sixteen wide, and twenty-four high. The 
pyramids are composed of immense blocks of stone, laid 
upon each other in the receding manner of steps. The 
celebrated Sphynx, of which so much has been written, 
is now almost buried in sand. The head and neck only 
remain uncovered. The form is that of a woman's 
head and breast on the body of a lion. Since buried in 
the sand, it has once been excavated and measured. 
The length was found to be one hundred and thirty 
feet, the breast was thirty-three feet wide, and the head 
and neck twenty-seven feet high, — the whole, except 



240 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

the paws, which are of masonry, was cut from the solid 
rock. 

Alexandria, the scene of many of these ruins, is sit- 
uated upon the Mediterranean Sea, and has communi- 
cation Avith the river Nile by means of a canal. This 
city was founded by Alexander the Great, and rose im- 
mediately to wealth and greatness ; and for science and 
literature was second only to Rome. It once contained 
600,000 inhabitants. After its capture by the Saracens, 
it began to decline, and the discovery of the passage to 
India destroyed its commercial importance. At present 
it consists of narrow, crooked, and dirty streets, and 
lofty buildings, and is surrounded by a high stone wall. 
The population at the present time cannot exceed 
15,000. Egypt is inhabited by a number of distinct 
tribes, or classes. The most numerous are the Fel- 
lahs, or Arab cultivators; the descendants of the ancient 
conquerors; these are well formed, and active, though 
lean. They have fine teeth, and sunken, sparkling 
eyes. Upper Egypt is settled principally by the Copts, 
of whom I have before spoken. Besides these are 
Greeks, Jews, Syrians, Turks, &c., scattered over the 
country. 

The people are so various, that the customs are there- 
fore different in the different classes. The Arabs are 
cheerful, quiet, and have many good qualities. The 
Jews are filthy, and avaricious ; thej?" are generally 
merchants, and ofiicers of the customs. The inhabit- 
ants of the cities are indolent and sensual ; have but 
little employment, and their amusements are of a de- 
praving kind. The women are vailed, and secluded, as 
in all oriental countries, but they have still much free- 



OF WILLIAM TORREY, 241 

dom. Beauty is esteemed by weight, as in many 
Mohammedan countries, and the Christian observes vari- 
ous trifling practices, totally at variance with those to 
which he has been accustomed. The beard is worn and 
the hair shaven. The men wear petticoats, and the 
women trowsers. Fingers supply the place of forks ; 
a cushion is used instead of a chair, and a tray instead 
of a table is set upon the floor. Females hide their 
faces and display their bosoms. Many things seem to 
be adhered to because they are at variance with Euro- 
pean usage. The inhabitants delight in exhibitions of 
wrestlers, rope dancers, &c. The exhibitions of the ser- 
pent charmers, are terrific — they handle the serpent 
with perfect familiarity, and are seldom bitten. There 
are numerous dancing women who perform in public, 
but their exhibitions conform to the state of moral senti- 
ment, and are such as would not be tolerated in America. 
Marriages in Egypt are generally contracted by the 
intervention of friends, and frequently the parties do not 
see each other till the ceremony. The females are often 
married at fifteen, and sometimes at an earlier age. 
The climate is peculiar, during eight months in the 
year, from March to November ; the heat is almost in- 
supportable to a European, or American. During the 
whole of this season the air is inflamed, the sky spark- 
ling, and the heat oppressive to all unaccustomed to it. 
The southerly winds which sometimes blow there are 
called by the natives poisonous winds, or the hot winds 
of the desert. They are of such extreme heat that no 
animated body exposed to them can withstand their 
pernicious influence. During the three days of the 

southern blast, the streets are deserted : and wo to the 
2] 



242 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

traveler whom this wind surprises remote from shelter ; 
when it exceeds three days it is insupportable. Very 
frequently the inhabitants are almost blinded with drifts 
of sand, but these evils are in a great measure remedied 
by the rising and overflowing of the Nile. This occurs 
annually, and supphes the deficiency of rain, (very 
little falling in that country,) in producing the vast fer- 
tiUty for which Egypt is so famed. 

The river begins to rise the last of May, and con- 
tinues till September. At the height of its flood in 
Lower Egypt, nothing is to be seen in the plains but the 
tops of forest and fruit trees ; the towns and villages 
being for that reason built upon eminences, either 
natural or artificial. When the river is at its proper 
height, the inhabitants celebrate a kind of jubilee with 
great festivity. The banks or mounds which confine 
it, are cut by the Turkish Pasha, attended by his gran- 
dees; and after this ceremony, the water is led into 
what they call the khalix, or grand canal, which runs 
through Cairo, whence it is distributed into cuts for sup- 
plying the fields and gardens. The irrigation is effected 
by machinery. This being done, and the waters be- 
ginning to retire, such is the fertility of the soil that the 
labor of the husbandman is next to nothing. Nothing 
can he more charming than the prospect which the face 
of the country presents in rising corn, vegetables and 
verdure of every sort. Oranges and lemons perfume the 
air; dates, grapes, and figs cheer the eye; and palm 
trees which afford the means of making wine, are bloom- 
ing and abundant. March and April are the harvest 
months, and they produce three crops, one of lettuces 
and cucumbers, (the latter being the ordinary food ot 
the inhabitants,) one of corn, and one of melons. 



OF WILLIAxM TOEREY. 243 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Sail for London. Arrive at the Downs. Sail for St. Johns. A 
dense fog. Bay of Fundy. Come to anchor at St. Johns. Pro- 
ceed to London. Sail for the East Indies. Study Navigation. 
Arrive at St. Helena. Tomb of Napoleon. Reach Cape Town. 
Description of the Country. Of the several Tribes. Arrive at 
Calcutta. Description of the Ganges, and its Religious Rites. 
Of Calcutta. Sail for Canton. Tiger Island. Straits of Ma- 
lacca. Preparations for Pirates.. Arrive at Canton. Its descrip- 
tion. Chinese Floating Town. Manners and Customs. Fourth 
of July. Sail for England. Misconduct of the Mate. His dis- 
charge. Arrival at London. 

^"^^"^^^^^^HE last of July we weighed anchor, and spread 
< • i > our sails bound for London. Nothing worthy 
5 f^ P of note occurred on the passage to Gibralter, 
^.j-y/xjxfx^ at which place we stopped. Sent a boat 
ashore for fresh provisions, and soon it came back richly 
laden with fruits, and a quantity of wine for the use of 
the seamen. We were allowed three glasses of wine 
per day, and on Saturday night one bottle was allowed 
each four men. Bracing full, we were soon through 
the gut of Gibralter, homeward bound ; and in a few 
days were in the chops of the channel of Old England. 
Had fine weather, though a head wind to contend with. 
While we were thus detained by adverse winds, we 
were employed in cleaning the ship. We lay thus sev- 
eral days when the wind veered around in our favor. 
Our sky-sails, and studding-sails were set alow and 



244 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

aloft ; and in forty-eight hours we came to anchor at 
the Downs. This is the sea between the shore and the 
Goodwin Sands, which furnishes a large and usually 
safe anchorage for vessels, where they ride at their leav- 
ing or entering the Thames. Here were seventy or 
eighty ships laying at anchor, all flying the British 
colors. We lay here three days, when we were taken 
in tow to Graves End, and the next tide took us up 
abreast the London docks, where we anchored and 
awaited the next tide, when we docked the ship. This 
was near the last of September, 1839. We spent a few 
days visiting various places of interest, (which I shall 
notice when I speak of London.) At the expiration of 
which time I shipped on board the Cornet, Captain 
Tabor, bound to St. Johns, which is the principal 
town in New Brunswick ; and is situated at the mouth 
of the St. Johns river, which is navigable for vessels of 
fifty tons, for nearly fifty miles, and is a place of exten- 
sive trade. 

As they were nearly in readiness, we soon left and 
proceeded down the channel. Nothing worthy of par- 
ticular notice occurred until we reached the Newfound- 
land Banks, which place is almost constantly thronged 
with vast numbers of fishing smacks. Here we en- 
countered a fog so dense, that scarcely could we see 
from one side of the ship to the other. We shortened 
sail, keeping the *bell almost constantly ringing. We 
lay in this position several days, when an east wind 
broke the fog, so that we were enabled to get into fair 
sailing. It is not unfrequently that vessels with a press 
of sail run down some small fisherman, and nothing 
more is heard of them. After a few days of fair sailing 



OP WILLIAM TORREY, 245 

we made Cape Sable, off our starboard bow. This was 
a sight long wished for, as is always the case with sea- 
men when bound to any particular port. We hauled 
our wind and stood up the bay, making the land a few 
miles below Eastport. Ran up the Bay of Fundy 
with a delightful wind. 

The Bay of Fundy is a considerable arm of the sea, 
extending into the British Provinces, about two hun- 
dred miles. At its entrance from the sea, it is about 
twelve degrees wide, gradually decreasing as it proceeds 
inland. It is remarkable for its tides, which in conse- 
quence of the abundance of its water between the 
shores is swelled from the height of from forty to sixty 
feet. So rapid are its flood tides, that small vessels are 
overturned, and small animals overtaken and devoured. 
At the ebb, small coasting vessels are often left upon 
the flats; care being taken so that the heavy swell, 
called the bore, as it strikes them, will beat against 
them at either the head or stern. We took on board a 
pilot, who in a few hours brought us to anchor safely at 
St. Johns. Our vessel was pulled up for repairs, and 
all hands paid off" except myself 

During my stay I became acquainted with a girl of 
Irish descent, whom I married ; I procured me a house 
and necessary stores, and was in a way to live. 

The first of December I shipped on board the Coro- 
nation, bound for London, with a cargo of timber. On 
our arrival orders were given to fit ship and proceed to 
the East Indies. Accordingly the ship was put in read- 
iness, and about the last of January, 1840, we left 
London, botind for Calcutta, and this I think about the 

finest voyage that I ever made. We had been out but 
21^ 



246 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

a few days when we took the trade wmds, and ran 
forty days without scarcely touching brace or halyards. 
Having watch and watch, the captain told those who 
had a mind to spend their watch below and study navi- 
gation, he would with the greatest pleasure assist. 
Five of us gladly availed ourselves of this opportunity, 
and daily we spent our allotted time in study. At the 
expiration of a few weeks we had made such progress 
under our accomplished teacher, that each of us could 
work a day's work tolerable well. We ran down close 
to St. Helena, and anchored for the purpose of making 
a short visit to this memorable place, a brief description 
of which may interest my readers. This celebrated 
island is in the Atlantic ocean, 1,200 miles distant from 
any land ; the nearest being the coast of South Africa. 
It is about ten miles long, and six broad, and is as a 
general thing, a barren waste. It presents the appear- 
ance to the approacher, of nothing but an immense wall 
of perpendicular rock, extremely abrupt at its northern 
extremity, but more shelving towards the south ; vary- 
ing in height from 600 to 1,200 feet. There are only four 
openings in the great wall of rock, which surrounds St. 
Helena, by which it can be approached with any 
facility, and these are all strongly fortified. This 
island has become celebrated by being the place to 
which the allied sovereigns of Europe banished Napo- 
leon, in 1815, where he remained till his death, in 
1821. His tomb is in a secluded recess, and is sur- 
rounded by a fence, enclosing a piece of ground contain- 
ing weeping willows. The island is owned by the 
English East India Company. 
Nothing worthy of notice occurred after leaving St. 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 247 

Helena, until we reached the Cape of Good Hope. We 
stopped at Cape Tov/n, the capital of Cape Colony, and 
it may not be out of place here to give a brief description 
of the country and its inhabitants, or so much as came 
under my observation. 

The district called Cape Colony, occupies the south- 
ern extremity of Africa. The leading feature in the 
aspect of the territory, consists in three successive 
ranges of mountains, running parallel east and west ; 
and forming as it were a succession of terraces, rising 
above each other ; the range farthest from the coast 
called the Snowy Mountains being the highest, and the 
first range, or that nearest the coast called the Lange 
Kloofs or Long Pass, the lowest. The Snowy Moun- 
tains are the highest in southern Africa, and the sum- 
mits are generally covered with snow. Their greatest 
height will not fall short of 100,000 feet. The plain 
next the sea is covered with a deep and fertile soil, 
watered by numerous streams, and clothed with a beau- 
tiful variety of trees and shrubs. There are frequent 
rains, and from its nearness to the sea, enjoys a mild 
and equable temperature. The Karroos, a name given 
to the plains between the second and third mountain 
ranges, presents a dreary uniformity of level surface 
300 miles in length, and 100 in breadth ; the soil of 
which is hard and impenetrable, and destitute of all 
kind of vegetation. Table Mountain overlooks Cape 
Town, and rises abruptly like the ruins of a gigantic 
fortress. The highest point is about 3.58S feet above 
Table Bay. 

The west side of this stupendous mass of rock is rent 
into hollows and worn away into pyramidal masses. 



248 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

The mountain is very difficult of ascent on account of 
numerous loose stones which make an unsafe foothold 
for the traveler. The summit is level, and very barren 
and bare of soil. Baboons, antelopes, vultures, and 
toads are sometimes to be met with on the mountain. 
The view from the summit is very extensive and pic- 
turesque. The bay seems a small pond or basin, and 
the ships in it are dwindled to little boats ; the town, 
and the regular compartments of its gardens, look like 
the work of children, all is so dwindled into mere specks 
or lines. 

The air on the summit in winter and in the shade, is 
generally about 15^ lower than that of the town; but 
in summer a fleecy cloud called the '^ Table-cloth" ap- 
pears on the mountain and gives indication of an ap- 
proaching storm. This cloud is composed of immense 
masses of fleecy whiteness. It does not appear to be at 
rest on the hill, but to be constantly rolling onward from 
the southeast ; yet, to the surprise of the beholder, it 
never descends, because the snowy wreaths seen falling 
over the precipice towards the town below, vanish com- 
pletely before they reach it, while others are formed to 
replace them on the other side. The two principal riv- 
ers on the western coast are the Berg or Mountain 
river, and the '' Elephants' river," and these are only 
navigable by small crafts to the distance of about 20 
miles up the country. 

On the south coast is Broad river. Its mouth, now 
called Port Beaufort, allows vessels of 200 tons to enter, 
and discharge or load in safety. 

The river Gamity, the next in size on the coast, is a 
collection of waters from the Great Karroo and Black 



OF WILLIAM TORREY, 249 

Mountains. In the rainy season it is a rapid and dan- 
gerous stream. Most of these rivers swelled by period- 
ical rains, deposit much mud and sand at their mouths. 
Some of them during the dry season are lost amid the 
sand and rocks. 

In this colony the seasons are divided into Monsoons. 
of which there are two, annually ; the one wet, and the 
other dry. The wet monsoon is called winter, and the 
dry, summer. The weather during the wet monsoon is 
disagreeable and moist, but the cold is not severe. Ice 
is never more than an eighth of an inch thick. Thun- 
der and lightning are very rare and seldom violent. 
The atmosphere is healthy and agrees well w^ith Euro- 
pean constitutions. 

The cape has long been celebrated among naturalists 
as a fertile field for their labors. Almost every animal 
found on the African continent may be found in the 
neighborhood of this colony. Two varieties of lions, 
the yellow and the brown, zebras, elephants, rhinoceros, 
the giraffe and buffalo, are all foimd there. 

Wine is manufactured at the Cape and exported in 
considerable quantities. Many kinds of wine are ex- 
tremely cheap, and a large quantity is consumed in the 
colony. 

Cape Town, the capital, was founded in 1652, and is 
built with great regularity. The streets are wide, inter- 
secting each other at right angles. There are some 
1500 houses which are for the most part constructed of 
stone, cemented with a glutinous kind of earth, and are 
generally white-washed on the outside. Their height 
is seldom more than two floors, frequent storms render- 
ing a greater elevation dangerous. Many of the houses 



250 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

have trees planted before them, which gives a rural ap- 
pearance to the town. 

To the southward of the town, a great number of 
elegant villas are scattered about, and the scenery resem- 
bles that of the rich and cultivated districts of England. 
Labor, house-rent and firewood constitute a large pro- 
portion of the expenses of living at Cape Town. Fruits, 
vegetables and sea fish are abundant and cheap. For 
amusements they have horse-races, balls, masquerades, 
and Sunday promenades in the government gardens. 
The population, by the census of 1827, was 120,036, of 
whom 35,509 were slaves. The country was first set- 
tled by the Dutch, but has since fallen into the hands 
of the English. 

The state of society at Cape Town is not deserving 
of much praise ; but the ladies are distinguished for 
sweetness and afiability. A considerable portion of the 
inhabitants are Hottentots. There are also Dutch, Ger- 
man, English and a few French. The color of the 
Hottentots is a yellow brown, and their formation is 
peculiar. They have very small hands and feet ; their 
faces are broad above and narrow to a point ; cheek 
bones prominent and their lips thick. In some tribes 
the wool grows in little tufts, and when sufiered to 
grow hangs in fringes. They have been called a stupid 
race, but seem to be so only from their oppressed con- 
dition ; they are gentle and faithful when trusted. They 
are filthy in their persons and indolent in their habits. 

The Bushmen are a tribe of Hottentots anciently sep- 
arated from the rest. They have been described as the 
lowest grade of human nature. A traveler in that 
country mentions having met a horde of them, only one 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 251 

of whom had a name, and he was called the ^^ Old 
Boy." 

Their women are, to European eyes, very repulsive 
objects — lean and gaunt, except over the hips where all 
the flesh seems to be piled. The Hottentots smear 
themselves with fat and soot, and are so used to it that 
when washed one seems to be without clothes. The 
dress consists chiefly of the skins of sheep which they 
wear with the wool, generally in the form of a cloak, 
open before. This is called a carosse. The females 
have a petticoat of skins or leather. They wear many 
ornaments of beads, rings, carved bones, &c. The hand- 
kerchiefs of the Hottentots are jackals' tails tied to a 
handle ; and with these they wipe the perspiration from 
their faces. Their language is harsh and shrill. For 
dwellings a few poles are bent over and skins or mats 
thrown over them. The entrance is low, and serves for 
door, window and chimney. The tribes which have 
cattle, pen them at night in the circle inclosed by the 
huts. 

Almost any kind of food is acceptable to Hottentots ; 
they eat roots, ants, grass, mice, toads, &c. They can 
long abstain from food, and can eat an enormous quan- 
tity without injury. All the tribes are fond of tobacco, 
which for the want of a better pipe, they smoke through 
the shank bone of a sheep. They smoke also the leaves 
of a kind of hemp called dacha, which stupefies and 
intoxicates. Much brandy is drank which is spread 
over the colony by means of traveling pedlars. 

Some of the wines of the Cape are excellent. There 
are one hundred and fifty varieties, some of which have 
a deleterious mixture of brandy. 



252 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

The manner of traveling among the Colonists is in 
wagons drawn by six or seven yoke of oxen. 

As there are no taverns or places for refreshments, 
they carry sheep and other provisions with them. 

The Caffres are a plmldering people, robbing each 
other at every possible opportunity. They are excel- 
lent herdsmen and have their herds so well trained that 
they are guided altogether by a shrill whistle. The 
punishments for offence are whipping with rods — ex- 
posure to a cluster of black ants — burning with hot 
stones — and death inflicted by clubs, or drowning. 

In their huts they sit on the skulls of cattle, with the 
horns attached, serving as arm pieces. 

We weighed anchor and proceeded on our voyage, 
passing through the Mozambique Channel. This chan- 
nel separates the island of Madagascar from the main 
land, and is of about one thousand miles in length. Its 
waters are very swift and extremely rough, and are 
infested with hordes of pirates, Avho adhere to the island 
of Madagascar principally. 

Here we spoke several vessels, the Clinton of New- 
York, and the Brazen Head of Liverpool. 

Nothing of interest occurred till we reached the 
soundings off the river Hoogly, or Little Ganges. These 
soundings or banks extend from the mouth of the river 
out to the distance of from sixty to a hundred miles. 
Innumerable numbers of pilots are stationed on them at 
all seasons and all hours. 

The Ganges, one of the noblest streams in the world, 
rises in the vast mountains of Thibet and is supposed 
by the natives to possess virtues capable of purifying 
them from every sin and transgression. At sunset they 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 253 

light tapers and throw into the river, which are so con- 
structed as to stand erect as they float on with the cur- 
rent. 

Thousands of them are thrown in at a time, afford- 
ing a scene which is without a parallel in interest and 
singularity. 

Crowds of Hindoos are seen at all times washing in 
its water and saying their prayers in a kneeling posture 
on its banks. 

The waters of the Ganges are carried in great quan- 
tities to all parts of India, and are sworn by in courts of 
justice. 

Statham, in his '^Indian Recollections," says, ^'At 
Allahabad where the streams of the Ganges and the 
Jumna unite, the country for miles around is considered 
sacred ground ; and so great is the number of pilgrims, 
who resort thither for bathing, that the vizier has re- 
ceived in one year, half a lac of rupees for permission 
to enjoy the benefit of immersion in its sacred flood. 
Many lives are there sacrificed annually. The persons 
who usually fall victims to their superstitions are fe- 
males, who come from all parts of the country to per- 
form the tragic deed, and who show a firmness of pur- 
pose worthy a better cause. 

''Several of them, accompanied by the priests, embark 
in a boat, and proceed to the spot where the streams 
unite, when each of the victims in succession descends 
from the boat into the water, with a large earthen pan 
fastened to her body, and is supported by a priest till 
she has filled the pan with water, when the priest lets 
go his hold and she sinks to rise no more, amidst the 

applause of the spectators, while the Brahmins enjoy the 

22 



254 LIFE AND ADVENTUHES ' 

scene, and extol the fortitude of the last victim to her 
who is about to follow." 

The cow is an animal held sacred among the Hin- 
doos, and the dung is used in the temples and other 
places as a species of holy ointment. 

The Ganges empties itself into the bay of Bengal by 
two large channels, and by a number of smaller size. 

On the river Hoogly or western channel stands Cal- 
cutta, the capital of British India, 100 miles from the 
sea. The length of the town is about six miles, extend- 
ing along the banks of the river. As you approach 
Calcutta from the sea, it has the appearance of a vast 
and beautifully arranged city. Tall and elegant houses 
ornamented with spacious pillars and verandas meet 
the eye along the whole length of the town, and com- 
pletely shutting out from view the ^' Black Town," or 
the native town of Calcutta, which is composed of low 
dirty huts, made of earth baked in the sun, placed 
along the narrow and crooked streets. Occasionally, 
however, a larger one is seen which denotes the resi- 
dence of some wealthy native, yet this like all others is 
entirely devoid of neatness. 

We employed natives to discharge our cargo as they 
could better endure the sun's heat. 

Taking on a cargo of rice, we received orders to sail 
for Canton, and proceeded down the river, and passed 
Tiger island, so called, from the great abundance of 
tigers which are found there. 

They occasionally swim from the island to the main 
land, which is about two miles distant. 

A few years since a fire swept over the island and 
almost entirely drove them from it. Many were killed 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 255 

by the flames, and in the general confusion many were 
drowned, while vast numbers were killed by the ships' 
crews, that were stationed around. 

The ninth day after our departure the pilot left us 
and resumed his station on the shoals to await the next 
ship that might require his services. 

The weather proved unfavorable indeed, and obliged 
us to beat about, making but little progress. 

Taking a fine breeze and a leading wind, we were 
soon in the straits of Malacca, which separate the pen- 
insular of Malacca from the island of Sumatra. Those 
straits are infested with pirates of a most desperate 
character, seizing upon every opportunity for plunder- 
ing vessels, and oftentimes are not satiated until all of 
the crew have fallen victims to their murderous cru- 
elty. 

Most of the vessels that pass these straits are traders, 
and therefore but poorly prepared for defence. 

We prepared ourselves in the best manner possible 
for an attack, collecting all the small arms, knives, &c., 
and loaded the two twelve pounders which were on the 
quarter deck. 

We ran through the straits without any molestation 
whatever ; headed our wind and ran across the gulf of 
Siam; spoke the ship Rothchilds, 14 days from Canton, 
bound for London ; and after the usual salutation, and 
request to be reported at home as well, we passed on, 
and in ten days we were at the mouth of the river Can- 
ton. 

Here we lay at anchor 14 days in consequence of 
head winds, which at length favoring us, we proceeded 
up the river till we came to the island of Lintin situated 
about fifty miles from Canton, where we came to an- 



256 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

choij and entered our cargo, paying the duty. The 
duty consists of a tax upon the tonnage of the vessel, and 
upon the difierent kmds of goods with which she may 
be laden. 

Besides this tax there is a kiimshaio or a present to 
government required, which is demanded alike of ves- 
sels of all sizes. Our whole tax amounted to about five 
hundred dollars. At Lintin we discharged a part of our 
cargo, and from thence proceeded up the river to Can- 
ton and came to anchor, and discharged the remainder 
of our cargo. 

Canton is situated on the eastern bank of the river 
Pekiang, which is a beautiful stream about one-third of 
a mile wide. This is the only port of trade of any im- 
portance in China. The city with its ponds and pleas- 
ure grounds covers an area of about seven miles in 
circumference, and is enclosed with a wall, which is at 
short intervals mounted with cannon. 

There are several entrances which are, beside the 
strong iron gates, guarded with one or more soldiers. 
At night these gates are closed, and at each street bars 
are thrown across the entrance. All foreigners are al- 
most entirely excluded, being only allowed within the 
populous portions with permission. 

Their only land locations are at the hongs which are 
built on the bank of the river near to the water's edge, 
and devoted almost entirely to them. 

One of the most pleasing sights is the Chinese floating 
town, which is composed of fifty or sixty thousand ves- 
sels of different kinds which are placed in rows tightly 
together. Here families are born, live and die, without 
ever stepping on shore. This town extends several 
miles down the river from Canton. 



OF WILLIAM TOEREY. 257 

China street is almost wholly occupied by the Chinese 
merchants, where they practice all kinds of fraud upon 
foreigners, considering themselves entitled to honor for 
the art which they proclaim most loudly. 

Occasionally, however, the biter has been most hor- 
ridly bitten, by some honest son from yankeedom. 

The Chinese, though of Tartar origin, have through 
the influence of the climate degenerated sadly, possess- 
ing but little of the courage and strength so justly as- 
cribed to the Tartar. 

Their dress is a long robe hanging below the knee. 
Over this is worn a girdle of silk, usually, in w^hich 
they carry a sheathed knife and two sticks, used as 
forks, called chop sticks. They are extremely slovenly 
in their dress and person, seldom, if ever, washing a 
garment. The hair, except a small tuft on the top of 
the head, is shaven off. This tuft is suffered to grow, 
and when of sufficient length is plaited or braided, and 
hangs down upon the back. The hat or head covering 
is of woven cane. 

The females are treated as slaves and are made often- 
times to draw the plough, while the husband goads her 
on with the whip. 

Pressing the feet of infants, which is carried to such 
extremes among the Chinese, is a most barbarous 
practice. They are so closely bound that they cease to 
grow, and it is with the greatest difficulty that they 
walk. This is usually done at the age of five years. 
The foot is a mere lump of lifeless flesh and bears a 
strong resemblance to the hand of a wash- woman which 
has been long in strong suds. 

Such is the immense population of China, that noth- 

22^ 



258 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

ing that can be eaten is thrown away. Puppies and 
rats are carried about the streets for sale. A favorite 
dish is made of birds' nests which are composed of 
glutinous substances. 

We lay at Canton the fourth of July. At an early 
hour, as is usual for all American vessels, wherever 
they may be, we hoisted the national flag and fi.red a 
grand salute. The day was spent in fine style with the 
other American vessels which also lay at anchor at 
Canton, by visiting each other, singing national airs, 
and firing salutes. 

Never did an anchor come to a ship's side or was a 
sail made quicker, or in finer style, than that on board 
of the Coronation, as we left the port on the 7th of July. 
We proceeded down the river and stood out into the 
China sea, where we were delayed several days by 
strong head winds, which came around into our favor. 

Again we made preparations to meet those unwelcome 
visitors of the straits. We however had but little use 
for our guns, for we were carried through the straits 
with a fine breeze, without even seeing one of their 
murderous craft, which are large open boats propelled 
by 100 or 150 oars. 

We now shaped our course for Good Hope, where we 
arrived in due season, without any unusual occurrence, 
and came to anchor at Cape Town. Procuring a sup- 
ply of water and provision, we again set sail for Old 
England with as fine a breeze as ever wafted a mariner 
on his way. One fine evening a number of us were sit- 
ting on, or standing around the windlass, each telling 
some adventure of his own, when one of the number 
observed a dark and angry cloud arising in the north- 
east, which as he thought betokened a squall. This he 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 259 

made known to the mate, who was walking, and receiv- 
ed in reply a bitter curse, and a request to mind his own 
business. Our fore, main and mizzen-royal and main- 
sky-sail were set, and all were waiting in breathless 
silence for its approach. At last one proposed to call 
the captain or advised him to do so, when he flew into 
a perfect rage, and said he would have them know that 
he was master of the deck and was not going to receive 
orders or advices from any foremast Jack. 

Soon the fury of the storm burst upon us, and when 
the masts, yards, and sails were already starting from 
their places, the order, ^' Let go the halyards fore and 
aft," came, but it came too late, for ere the sound died 
upon the breeze they were dangling at the ship's sides, 
the noise of which soon brought the master upon deck, 
who asked why he was not called on the approach of 
the squall. The mate replied that he was unconscious 
of the extent of it. All hands were called to clear the 
wreck, and found the fore and main-top-gallant-masts and 
yards were carried away, and mizzen-top and fore-top- 
mast badly sprung. Some words passed between the 
captain and mate, which ended in the mate's discharge, 
or rather he was thrown off duty. 

After the damage was repaired I was called upon to 
fill the vacancy made by his discharge, which position 
I kept until the voyage was made. Every thing passed 
well and we arrived in London about the last of Decem- 
ber, 1840, being absent about 11 months. 

All hands were paid off; the ship was to run to St. 
Johns, N. B., and all who wished could go in her. She 
remained in London four or five weeks, which time I 
improved by visiting places of amusement in and around 
Jiondon. 



260 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 



CHAPTER XVII. 

London. Thames tunnel. Bank of England. St. Paul's Church. 
Westminster Abbey. The tower. Sail for St. Johns. A storm. 
Proceed to Londonderry. Its description. Wolf Rock. Sail for 
Holland. Burial at sea. Arrive at Hamburg. Its description. 
Come near going upon the sands. Dover cliffs and castle. Pilots. 
Eddystone light. A ship in distress with a drunken captain. Re- 
turn to my family. Go to New Orleans. Sail for Glasgow. Go 
to Edinburg. Go to St. Johns resolved to quit the sea. Build a 
house. Go to Savannah. Meet an old school fellow. Appointed 
chief mate. Gulf stream. A storm. Go home. Sail to Cork. 
Belfast. Thence to London. Return home. Imminent danger 
and narrow escape. 



ONDON, the capital of England and metrop- 



5 III $ oils of the British empire, is situated on the 
I '=L^ $ banks of the Thames, in the counties of Mid- 
Inaa/w^ dlesex and Surrey, and within a day's jour- 
ney of the southern shore of Britain. 

On the spot now occupied by the city, or more ancient 
part of the metropolis, which is on the left or northern 
bank of the Thames, a town had been built and pos- 
sessed by the Romans eighteen centuries ago, and from 
that period it has constantly been the seat of the increas- 
ing and busy population. Its chief increase and im- 
provement, however, have been since the great fire in 
1666, which destroyed a large number of the old streets 
and public edifices. 

It is impossible by any written description to convey 
adequate ideas of the real magnitude of London. In- 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 261 

deed, it is not until after a person has been in the city 
for some months, that he begins to comprehend it. Ev- 
ery new walk opens to him streets, squares and divisions 
which he has never seen before. And even those places 
where he is most familiar, are discovered day by day to 
possess archways and thoroughfares within and around 
them, which had never been noticed before. Even peo- 
ple who have spent their whole lives in the city, often 
find streets and buildings, of which they had never be- 
fore heard, and which they had never before seen. 

The Thames Tunnel which is the medium for com- 
mimication between the Surrey and Middlesex sides of 
the river, was designed and carried into execution by a 
joint stock company, which, however, has been largely 
assisted by government. The tunnel consists of two 
avenues or arched vaults, beneath the river. Each 
avenue is of such height and breadth as to afford a 
beautiful walk, and is lighted with gas. It is about 
two miles below London bridge, and was begun in 
1822. 

Standing in some measure behind the site of the 
Royal Exchange, facing Threadneedle street, are seen 
the extensive series of stone buildings containing the 
Bank of England. The whole buildings and courts 
include an area of about eight acres, and were complet- 
ed in 1778. In 1S32, there were employed in the bank 
S20 clerks and porters, and 38 printers and engravers. 
There were besides, 193 pensioners. The salaries and 
pensions amounted to £218,003 ; the house expenses, 
£39,187, and the allowance to directors, £S,000. 

These statistics will give the reader a better opportu- 



262 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

nity to judge of the enormous amount of business that 
this bank transacts annually. 

The hours at which the bank is open are from nine 
in the morning till five in the afternoon, holidays ex- 
cepted. 

St. Paul's Church, which is built in the form of a 
Greek cross, is the most prominent object in London. It 
measures 514 feet in length, 286 in breadth, and 370 in 
height, to the topmost pinnacle. There are three por- 
ticoes at as many entrances, on the north, west, and 
south. That on the west is the principal, with twelve 
lofty Corinthian pillars below, and the angles above 
crowned with handsome bell towers, the size of ordinary 
church towers or steeples. 

The great bell of St. Paul's is only rung when a mem- 
ber of the royal family dies, and its fine deep tones can 
be distinctly heard at a distance of several miles. The 
great bell weighs four and a half tons, and is ten feet in 
diameter. 

Westminster Abbey is situated nearly opposite the 
houses of Parliament, and is open to inspection on the 
north and east, but on the west it is much crowded upon 
by dwelling-houses. 

In very early times this spot of ground was a small 
insular tract, surrounded by the waters of the Thames, 
and called Thorny Island. A monastic institution was 
founded here on the introduction of Christianity into 
Britain. An Abbey was raised upon the site of the 
luined monastic building, under Edward the Confessor. 

The ground plan, as usual, bore the form of the cross. 
Rights and endowments were granted, and the edifice 
assumed a great degree of architectural grandeur. It 





OF WILLIAM TOKREY. 263 

had become the place for the inauguration of the Eng- 
lish monarchs. and William the Conqueror was crowned 
here with great pomp and solemnity, in 1066. 

Henry III, enlarged the abbey, and the building con- 
tinued in the state in which he left it until Henry VH. 
added a chapel, built in the florid Gothic style, on which 
the greatest skill of the architect and the sculptor was 
displayed; exhibiting the most splendid structure of the 
age, and so highly esteemed, that it was enjoined that 
the remains of royalty alone should be interred within 
its walls. 

During the reign of Henry VHL, of its revenues, Hen- 
ry raised Westminster to the dignity of a city, and its 
abbey was constituted a cathedral. It was, however, 
afterwards re-united to London in 1550. 

Westminster Abbey, during the reign of William and 
Mary, was thoroughly repaired, and the towers added 
at the western entrance, under the direction of the cel- 
ebrated Sir Christopher Yv'ren, to whom London owes 
so much of its architectural grandeur. 

The length of the abbey is 416 feet; breadth, at the 
transeph, 203 feet; nave 102 feet; height of the west 
tower 225 feet. The exterior measurement, including 
Henry VII.'s Chapel, is 530 feet. 

On entering the great western door between the tow- 
ers, the magnificence of the abbey at once strikes the 
beholder with reverential awe. Nearly the whole of 
the interior appears in grand masses of towering Gothic 
columns of gray marble, connecting the pavement with 
the roof, and separating the nave from the side aisles. 
A screen divides the nave from the choir, which is sur- 
momited by a noble organ, while beyond, the eye soars 



264 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

amid graceful columnSj tracery, and decorated windows, 
to the summit of the eastern arch that overlooks the 
adjacent chapels. 

The walls on either side display a great profusion of 
sepulchral monuments, among which are many finely 
executed pieces of sculpture, and touching memorials 
of those whose exploits or exertions deserve the notice 
of posterity. 

There is probably no building in the world around 
which cluster so many varied and thrilling associations 
as the Tower in London. For centuries it had been the 
theatre of England's bloodiest deeds, and its gray old 
walls stand as the lasting monument of tyranny, des- 
potism, and death. Every stone in that structure has a 
history to tell. Centuries have come and gone, whole 
dynasties disappeared, and yet that old Tower still 
rises in its strength. It is situated in the east part of 
the metropolis, and on the north side of the river 
Thames, Its area measures twelve acres. Its origin 
has been imputed by some to Julius Caesar. Still, the 
generally received opinion is, that the White Tower 
which is the oldest and principal edifice, owes its be- 
ginning to William the Conqueror, about 1076. This 
noted tower is 96 feet in breadth, 116 in length, and 92 
in height. Its walls are 14 feet thick. The mint and 
menagerie which formerly gave notoriety to the tower, 
have been removed. The common entrance of the 
tower is on the west side through four gates, which are 
daily opened with much form and ceremony. I saw 
nothing so interesting to me in the tower as the Horse 
Armory, which is a hundred and fifty feet long, and 
thirty- three wide, containing a line of equestrian 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 265 

figures, as if in battle array, stretching through the 
centre. A banner is over the head of each — the ceihng 
is covered with arms and accoutrements — the walls 
with armor and figures of ancient warriors. That row 
of twenty-two horsemen, large as life, armed to the 
teeth, with helmet and cuirass, and breastplate, and 
coats of mail, and lances, and swords, and battle-axes, 
and shields, sitting grim and silent there, is a sight one 
will not easily forget. They seem ready to charge on 
the foe, and their attitude and aspect are so fierce, that 
one almost trembles to walk in front of the steeds. 
Another object of curiosity is the immense store of fire 
arms, sufiicient to equip one hundred and fifty thousand 
men, and beautifully arranged for show. Fee for see- 
ing the Armory, sixpence; the Regalia, two shillings 
and sixpence. 

The ship being ready, about the first of February, 
1841, we set sail for St. Johns. After a good passage 
of seventeen days, we saw Mount Desert, on the coast 
of the United States. At night there were many indi- 
cations of bad weather ; the ship rolled carelessly over 
the long heavy swell — the light breeze whistled mourn- 
fully through the rigging; ^all at once the main-top- 
gallant sheet (being chained) parted. Men were sent 
to bind or fasten it again — while in the act of obeying 
that order, the main-topsail sheet, (being chained also,) 
parted. This was considered by the crew as ominous ; 
some prophesied that the ship would be lost, others, that 
there was some one on board who had committed some 
awful crime on shore — all were in a state of consterna- 
tion. At length the Captain went below, and in a 

moment came running back, saying, '* Shorten the sails 
23 



266 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

as fast as possible, for the barometer has fallen 4-10 
in five minutes ; bare a hand my good fellows, there is 
not a moment to lose/*' Every sail was soon clew^ed up 
to the yards, and lowered — there was no wind though 
it was cloudy, and all thought the barometer had de- 
ceived us, but we soon enough found that the truth was 
told ; for while we were yet on the yards it came butt- 
end foremost, (as it is termed,) and blew with utmost 
fury. We were unable to get down, consequently were 
obliged to make the best of it by clinging fast to the 
rigging, and it was with difficulty that we did so. The 
v\^ater rushed over the deck, the scuppers would not 
allow it to run off. During this time the Captain was 
calling aloud with the trumpet, but its sounds did not 
reach our ears. The breeze lulled a little, and those in 
the rigging were enabled to get down, when it came 
with redoubled fury; our main-top-sail was carried 
away; then we lay twelve hours beating about by 
wind and waves, amid torrents of rain. At length the 
wind died away into a start calm ; the sea at the same 
time running very irregular, the waves mounting to the 
height of twenty or thirty feet. Sail was made as quick 
as possible, which relieved the laboring of the ship ; the 
fore and main top-sails which had been cleared away 
were repaired. The wind wore away into the South 
"West. We shaped our course so as to shun the St. 
George's shoals which we were very near, and stood for 
St. Johns. The breeze freshened every moment until 
we found ourselves going at the rate of ten knots per 
hour. This was indeed cheering after the fearful situa- 
tion we had but just escaped. But this was not always 
to last, for we were soon enveloped in a fog so dense, 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 267 

that it was with the greatest difficulty we could manage 
the ship. We shortened sail, hauled our wind, and 
according to our own reckoning stood across the bay to 
the rock known as the Old Proprietor, feeling our way 
along, we were nearing the Nova Scotia shore. Falling 
in with a fisherman, we found we were five miles below 
the grand passage ; shaped our course up the bay. 
Having a fair tide we were soon above Grand Menan, 
and past most of our danger: firing a gun once in two 
or three minutes as a signal for a pilot. The fog 
cleared away a little so as to enable us to press more 
sail. Soon we saw Split Rock, and finding that we had 
not proceeded as far as we had supposed, we pressed 
more sail, setting studding sails on the starboard side, 
still keeping up the firing which soon brought a pilot, 
who speedily brought us to safe anchorage in the harbor 
of St. Johns. 

When the ship was safely moored, all hands were 
discharged. Feeling something of a desire to quit the 
seas, I resolved to remain on shore a while at least, and 
in pursuance of that resolution, obtained employment at 
rigging vessels, which business I followed nearly four 
months ; when getting tired and uneasy of the monotony 
of such a life, I shipped as mate of the brig Comet, 
the last of July, bound for Londonderry, (Ireland,) with 
plank for cargo. Nothing unusual occurred on our 
passage, and in due time arrived at Londonderry and 
discharged our cargo. 

The little leisure time allotted us was spent in ram- 
bling around the city. Londonderry is situated on the 
west bank of the Foyle. The original town was built 
in 1603, but .was burned in 160S. The wall of the 



268 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

city was about twenty feet high, and about eight thick, 
of splendid architecture, though somewhat ancient. 
The walls are mounted with towers at interval of two 
hundred and fifty or three hundred feet; these towers, 
and also the walls between them are mounted with 
cannon. The city is entered by four gates which are 
of iron, of the same height of the walls. 

Among the objects of curiosity which we visited was 
Walker's monument, erected to the memory of Gover- 
nor Walker. 

In the Court House yard stands a cannon which is 
four feet and six inches round, and eJeven feet long ; it 
is called Roaring Meg, from the loudness of its report 
during the siege ; it bears the following inscription : — 
*^ Fishmongers, Londond, 1642." 

We also visited the Gothic Cathedral, which was 
erected in 1633, and is a most splendid edifice. There 
are also many other public buildings of which I cannot 
speak, as I had not time to examine them minutely. 

With a fair wind we proceeded down Lough Foyle, 
and as we rounded Molin Head, set studding sails, and 
steered down the north channel through the Irish Sea, 
running near to the Irish coast. I have never before 
had so beautiful a view of the Irish scenery ; though 
situated as I was I could get but a faint idea of it. In 
a few days we hauled around between Land's End and 
the Isle of Scilly. Here is situated the well known 
rock called Wolf's Rock, situated but a little distance 
from Land's End. Its name is derived from the Wolf- 
like roaring which is heard in calm weather to the dis- 
tance of several miles. The rock is a wash, or half tide 
rock, and is hollow ; the water of the swell with which 
it fills, soon disappears, which gives rise to the supposi- 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 269 

tion that there is a passage through it; but whither this 
passage leads, conjecture does not tell. 

We entered the English Channel and stood towards 
the Downs, where we came to anchor, and remained 
several days, in consequence of head winds. 

The wind favoring us we stood into the North Sea. 
One of our men fell from the main-royal-yard, which 
killed him instantly. We kept the body a day or two 
hoping to be able to bury it on the island of Heligoland 
at the mouth of the Elbe. But that could not be done on 
account of the warm weather, and we were obliged to 
bury him at sea. We sewed him in his hammock, fas- 
tening weights at his feet sufficient to sink the body. 
The body was then placed upon a plank which rested 
on the rail of the vessel. The vessel was then hove to 
and her progress considerably checked. The burial 
service was then read, and as the reader came to — '^ We 
commit the body to the deep'' — the plank was raised, 
and the body slipped from it. The water parted to re- 
ceive it, and closed over him forever. 

We braced full and stood for the mouth of the Elbe, 
where we remained at anchor during the night in con- 
sequence of the darkness. 

In the morning a pilot came aboard and attempted to 
ran us up to Cuxhaven, but on account of the strong 
tide he could make but little progress. We waited for a 
steamer to take us in tow, which soon had us at anchor 
at Cuxhuven, twenty miles from the mouth of the river. 
Here we were also detained two days, waiting for a 
steamboat to tow us to Hamburg, where were vessels of 
all nations at anchor. 

Hamburg is seventy-five miles from the sea on the 
23* 



270 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

northern side of the Elbe. Its location is partly upon a 
great number of small islands formed by the Elbe and 
the Alster. It is divided into old and new town, and is 
surrounded by lofty ramparts and a broad ditch. The 
streets are very narrow generally, and the houses, being 
six and seven stories high, render them dark and 
dreary. The churches are mostly of Gothic architect- 
ure, having lofty spires, which are covered with cop- 
per. 

Perhaps there is no country in the world where the 
means of education can equal those of the North of 
Germany. At Hamburg there are •over an hundred 
thousand volumes of books, in only two libraries. The 
universities of Germany are attended by students from 
all parts of Europe and oftentimes from America. 

Our cargo consisted of wheat, flour, Gin, &c. We 
hoisted sail and proceeded down the river. When 
abreast Cuxhaven we clewed up and let go the second 
bower. The current was so strong that this was no 
sooner fast than the cable parted and we ran near to the 
quicksands, that lay under our stern at the distance of 
half a mile. We immediately let go another and 
veered away until she was checked of her progress. By 
this time we had out about 90 fathoms of cable, and 
were within a stone's throw of the sands. Here we lay 
four hours momentarily fearing this cable would also 
part, and our destruction be sure. The tide beginning 
to turn, we manned the windlass and hove the ship to 
her anchor, which was soon lifted, and we dropped 
away to the eddy of Cuxhaven. 

The next morning another anchor was sent from the 
shore. We then weighed anchor and stood out to sea, 
passed Heligoland, where we left our pilot. 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 271 

With a fair wind we ran along the coast of Holland, 
and spoke several English, French and Dutch fishermen. 
Setting studding-sails alow and aloft we ran through the 
fleet, which is always at anchor at the Downs ; had a 
delightful view of the coast along from Margate to 
Beachy Head; and passed the high Chalk Clifls of 
Dover, which rise almost perpendicularly to the height 
of two or three hundred feet. 

Here is situated the famous castle of Dover. There 
are many tiers of windows or loop-holes for musketry 
worked in the cliff, and the subterranean barracks and 
passages are extensive. The besieged can retreat 
through these passages at pleasure. The barracks are 
suflBicient for the accommodation of three or four thou- 
sand men. 

This was formerly the place of confinement of crim- 
inals, and is now so used for debtors. 

The town of Dover is situated on a low marshy soil, 
scarcely visible from the sea, and is principally inhab- 
ited by pilots for London and the north sea. 

Life-boats are stationed there at the expense of the 
government, to render assistance to those to whom ac- 
cident may befall. One third of the money obtained 
from ships' crews goes to government, while the remain- 
ing two-thirds is retained by the crew of the life-boat. 
Each pilot is obliged to serve seven years before he can 
take a boat, and only a few can obtain an appointment 
at that time. 

The appointments are made by the Admiralty of Eng- 
land, which is composed of old men who have spent 
long lives at sea, and are supposed to thoroughly under- 
stand navigation, and extricating ships from all possible 
difficulties. 



272 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

When a person has completed his term of apprentice- 
ship, he goes before the admiralty, who suppose a ship 
to be placed in the worst possible dilemma, and then 
ask him his plan of extricating her, or the course he 
would pursue, were he master of it. 

If he fails to agree Avith them, he is sent back to 
complete his apprenticeship, though they seldom appear 
the second time, usually hiring out to some other person 
who may get an appointment. 

The pilot-boats are nicely constructed and dance and 
bound over the wave as fearlessly as the fish of the sea. 

We passed the Eddystone lighthouse, which is sit- 
uated about fourteen miles from the English coast and 
in one of the most tempestuous places in the known 
world. Several houses ha-ve been built on the same 
spot and could not withstand the heavy sea. One 
builder said, on the completion of his work, that the 
winds might blow and the waves might beat against 
it, but he should be as safe there as upon the highlands 
of Scotland. But in a night, he and his works were 
lost. The present one is built upon the very neck of the 
rock, and dove-tailed to the rock, and each piece to the 
other. The lantern is about 90 feet high, and yet the 
water at times beats over it. Three men are stationed 
there at a time to avoid all suspicions of ill in the case 
of a death or any accident which may befall any one of 
them. At a time when there were only two, one died 
from some sudden cause, and the other fearful that sus- 
picion would rest upon him, should he throw the body 
into the sea, kept it many days hoping for an opportu- 
nity to have the body examined, and thus remove all 
grounds of suspicion. The weather was such that no 
boat could reach him to whom he could communicate 



OP WILLIAM TORREY. 273 

his situation, and there he remained ''alone with the 
dead/' amid the roaring of the elements, till the stench 
that arose from the body filled the whole house. 

In a short time, before a fine breeze, we were out of 
sight of land, when we saw a barque standing to the 
Avestward apparently in distress, with her masts and 
bowsprit gone. We ran close to her and hailed them, 
asking them if in want of any thing. One of the fore- 
mast hands answered, and said they were in want of 
bread and water. We offered them bread and told them 
to come for it. He said all of their boats were gone to 
Davy Jones' locker, and they could not. 

Our boats were lowered away and I went in charge 
to the ship with a quantity of bread. 

Never before had I seen a ship in so bad a condition. 
The fore-mast was gone by the board, which in its fall 
killed the mate ; the bowsprit by the night-heads ; on 
the larboard side the forecastle was stove in, near the 
water's edge, and almost every swell would wash over- 
board. The pumps were kept in constant action. To 
add wretchedness to the scene, the captain was so 
drunk that he was obliged to hang on the companion 
to keep himself from falling. Soon as we were aboard, 
the captain, intent upon his liquor, asked if we would 
have some brandy. Some of the crew went with him. 

As he came up, I asked him if he did not consider it 
altogether unsafe to be in such a miserable craft. He 
replied in an inarticulate manner, ''Miserable craft; 
she's better than all your white pine ships, now," and 
reeling, fell back on the companion. 

We returned to our ship and left him to enjoy his 
peaceful security, and with a favorable breeze we lost 
sight of him. 



274 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

What his fate was I know not, but I fear he speedily 
went to his rest, where he will remain ^^ till the sea shall 
give up her dead." 

We had a fine voyage, with no unusual occurrence. 
We reached Partridge island where we took on a pilot, 
who soon landed us safely at St. Johns about the last of 
March, 1841. Here I remained several months, deter- 
mined to abandon the seas. At length getting again 
discontented, I left my family and went to Boston to get 
a situation. From thence I went to New Orleans, 
where I remained some weeks, and shipped myself on 
board the Clyde, Capt. Reed, bound for Glasgow, Scot- 
land. 

Nothing save the usual occurrences of sailing attend- 
ed the voyage, which was speedily terminated. Arriv- 
ing at Glasgow we were paid off. 

Glasgow, situated upon the Clyde, is the largest city 
in Scotland and owes its rapid and still prosperous in- 
crease to its manufacturing interest, principally, which 
is vast indeed. The streets are wide and generally 
well paved. 

The Cathedral is a massive building of gothic archi- 
tecture, and stands upon a hill in the center of the city. 
The buildings are blackened by the coal smoke which 
hangs over the city in clouds and renders the general 
aspect indeed gloomy. 

Having nothing to do and tired of wandering around 
Glasgow, several of us proposed going to Edinburgh, a 
distance of forty miles, which was performed by stage- 
coach, over a hilly, though an excellently well worked 
road. 

Edinburgh is situated upon the southern shore of the 
Frith of Forth, two miles from the sea. Its situation 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 275 

is indeed fine, occupying high ridges of land, and is 
surrounded, except on the north side, by high, craggy 
rocks. 

The streets of the old town, which is built on the two 
southern ridges, are narrow and dirty. The houses are 
often ten and eleven stories high. 

Those of the new town, built upon the northern ridge, 
are different, being unsurpassed by any in the ^vorld in 
regularity and elegance. A high bridge over the ravine 
connects the two towns. 

Edinburgh is chiefly the residence of lawyers and 
men of literature. It has the most flourishing Univer- 
sity in all Europe, having about forty professors con- 
nected with it, and has at times two thousand students. 
There are a great number of libraries, and in one con- 
nected with the University are 100,000 volumes. 

In the neighborhood of Edinburgh is a huge rock, 
which attracts the attention of visitors, called Samp- 
son's ribs. 

Returning to Glasgow, I shipped as mate of the 
Windsor Castle, bound for St. Johns, N. B. We pro- 
ceeded down the Clyde and ran out the North Channel 
into the Atlantic, having fifty passengers. The time 
passed very finely indeed, until we made the New- 
foundland banks, when we were met by a stormy head 
wind, which delayed us very much. 

Our stores got short, the passengers got discouraged, 
the crew became dissatisfied, attributing the scarcity to 
the bad calculation of the captain. Their dissatisfaction 
was of short duration, as the wind shifted, and soon we 
were safely anchored at St. Johns. 

Again I resolved to leave the sea altogether and live 
with my family which were now growing up around 



276 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

me, and needed me very much at home. I hired or 
leased a piece of land, and built a small cottage. This 
occupied six or eight months. 

Again time passed tediously, probably more so from 
the fact that all of the men belonging to the middle and 
lower classes are mariners and generally gone from 
home, so that a person of those classes finds but few 
associates. I remained on shore but a short time after 
the completion of the house. 

Shipped on board the barque Duncan, bound for Sa- 
vannah, Geo., for lumber, cotton, &c. I had as ship- 
mates the only two brothers of my wife. On our 
arrival at Savannah, one was taken sick and carried to 
the hospital, where after ten days' sickness he died and 
was buried in the ground belonging to the hospital. A 
few days after the other was drowned and also buried 
there. 

We lay at Savannah about two months waiting a 
cargo, which was at last procured, of timber. DiflScul- 
ties arose between the captain and second mate, which 
resulted in the discharge of the latter. I was appointed 
to fill his place. A few days after the chief mate ap- 
plied for a discharge as he could get better wages on 
some other voyage, which was granted him, and I was 
still promoted. 

Getting ready for sea, a pilot came aboard. Weighed 
anchor and stood out to sea. 

Hearing the captain accost the pilot by a name fa- 
miliar to me, I was induced to believe him an early ac- 
quaintance, though I could not recognize in him the 
least familiar feature. So fully was I impressed with 
the idea of finding an acquaintance of earlier days that 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 277 

I was induced to speak to him, and a happy recognition 
of old school and play-fellows ensued. 

The captain by this means found me to be a yankee, 
having till that moment supposed me to be an English- 
man. 

The scenes of other days were rapidly recalled. Hav- 
ing heard nothing from home since I left in 1830, 1 most 
anxiously questioned him, but could learn nothing. 

At the time I left home I resolved that the sea of for- 
getfulness should wash over me and them, and for a 
long lime I kept my parents in ignorance of my where- 
abouts. 

This feeling at last wore away and I addressed my 
mother, but no welcome messenger returned to me — 
again and again I wrote, still they remained silent. 

At last feeling myself an outcast and entirely forgot- 
ten by them, I resolved to write no more, and gave up 
all idea of ever again seeing them, meaning to spend 
my days, and lay my bones, on foreign soil. 

But the accidental meeting of this friend of my youths 
dispelled the idea and I requested him to notify them of 
my situation. 

Soon we were abreast Tyber's island, and the pilot 
left us and pulled for the shore. 

Standing north with a fair wind, we soon reached the 
Gulf Stream. Having often spoken of this stream 
without giving the reader an account of it, I propose 
doing it here. 

The Gulf Stream derives its name from a remarkable 

current in the Atlantic, running from southwest to 

northeast along the coast of America, from Florida to 

Newfoundland, supposed by many to be caused by the 

24 



278 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

trade winds which blow the waters of the Atlantic into 
the Gulf of Mexico, and they seeking their level rush 
outj finding a passage between the Bahama isles and 
the American coast, thus continuing around to the coast 
of England, decreasing in velocity with the extension 
of its surface and distance from the gulf. Others sup- 
pose it is caused by the current of the Atlantic, which 
is to the southwest, meeting the continent by which a 
part of its waters are repelled and forced into a counter 
current along the shore through the gulf. 

Some very few suppose that the waters of the Pacific 
rushing through under the continent and coming up in 
the Gulf of Mexico, and thus on in course, are the 
cause of it. Were this the case there would be a vortex 
or whirlpool in the Pacific and a monstrous boiling in 
the gulf which would have long ago have been discov- 
ered. The first reason or cause given is the generally 
accepted one. 

In continuing, with the reader, on with the voyage, I 
would say we encountered a most violent gale, attended 
with violent rain accompanied to an alarming degree 
with lightning and thunder. 

We ran eight days before the wind under close-reefed 
top-sail and fore-sail. The wind blowing from the 
south, which with the current kept a long and heavy 
swell. "With two men at the helm we were scarcely 
able to keep her before the wind. She being heavily 
loaded with lumber labored tremendously. 

About twelve o'clock one night a big sea pooped us, 
(a heavy sea striking against the stern or quarter of the 
vessel when she is scudding before the wind) bursting 
the bulwarks from their stanchions, carrying away most 
of our provisions that were lashed to the deck. The 



OP WILLIAM TORREY. 279 

water-casks that were lashed each side of the long boat 
had their heads knocked in, leaving the sides standing 
unhurt. 

Most of the crew seeing the swell sprang into the rig- 
ging and thus saved themselves from harm. The cap- 
tain being at the helm, assisting in controlling the vessel, 
was struck and carried forward with great force, as 
must be supposed from the effect upon the water-casks. 

The second mate and myself both seeing the situation 
of the vessel sprang from the mizzen-rigging and seized 
the helm before she had time to broach to, which had 
she done, all would have been lost. The water when 
we left the rigging was up to our arms upon deck, and 
running over the rail of the vessel. Our vessel was 
apparently sinking, but was relieved by the bulwarks 
giving way, clearing the decks. The captain coming 
aft with bruised head avov/ed his determination of never 
scudding a vessel again. 

The second mate and myself kept the wheel three 
days and two nights, for the captain thought no others 
competent. As the wind abated sail was made, and an 
observation taken, which was the first taken since leav- 
ing Savannah, and we found ourselves on the northern 
side of St. George's Banks at the mouth of the Bay of 
Fundy. 

The wind, blowing fresh from the northeast, was in 
our teeth (as it is termed) obliging us to beat about for 
several days, when it shifted into the northwest en- 
abling us to run up the American coast. Vv^e sighted 
Grand Menan, when the wind dying away to a start 
calm, we were carried back by the tide about forty 
miles, when a favoring breeze springing up, we squared 



280 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

our yards and set studding-sails and soon had a pilot on 
board and were at St. Johns. 

I remained with my family but a few days when I 
left St. Johns, and entered upon the duties of com- 
mander of the Warrior, a vessel of 120 tons burden, 
laden with plank, lath, &c., bound for Cork. We sailed 
from St. Johns the first of September, 1842, had a very 
fine passage, and at the expiration of thirty-four days 
we were safely at Cork, when leaving the vessel in 
charge of the mate I went on shore for orders respect- 
ing my cargo. 

Cork is situated at the southeast side of the island on 
the river Lee, fourteen miles from the sea. Its harbor 
called the cove is elegant, and strongly fortified. The 
city presents something of a Venitian appearance, the 
several channels through which the river empties itself 
into the harbor being quayed. 

There are a great number of elegant buildings, public 
and private, situated on the hill which overlooks the 
town. Those more worthy of note are the bishop's 
palace, the custom-house, and court-house which has 
in front a pediment supported on six Corinthian columns 
surrounded by a group of colossial figures. 

I was ordered to proceed to Belfast with my cargo. 
Stood up the channel on a bowline. After rounding the 
Tuskar light we had a fine wind, till abreast the Isle of 
Man, when in consequence of a head wind we were put 
back. For three days I never left the deck except to 
my regular meals. The wind veering around we again 
stood up the channel and weathered the South Rock 
light fifteen miles befow Belfast. Tacked and stood 
over to the Scotch side, dodging about during the night. 
Daylisht found us abreast the Copeland light. Seeing 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 281 

a pilot boat I hoisted the Union Jack as a signal, which 
soon brought him on board, and we found a safe an- 
chorage at Belfast. Procured a berth and hove her to 
it. Discharged my men, most of them having been paid 
at St. Johns, to run thither. 

I remained on board four days and sold the ship for 
£700 sterling, received a check on the bank of London 
for the amount. Proceeded to Liverpool by steamer, 
from thence to London by railroad. Obtained the 
money and returned to Liverpool. Shipped on board 
of the Duncan and sailed for St. Johns with the money, 
early in November, 1842. The wind blowing fresh up 
channel, the captain concluded to run out of the north 
channel. Had a fine passage until we Avere abreast 
Tory island, on the northwest coast of Ireland, when 
the wind shifted into the northeast, and blew a fresh 
breeze. Running down the coast at night we Avere all 
greatly alarmed at the cry from the look-out, '' Break- 
ers ahead.'* The helm was instantly put hard up, which 
the ship immediately answered and came around upon 
her keel. Although under double-reefed-top-sails, they 
were trimmed in a few moments, and the ship began to 
gather headway, and stood offshore till daylight, when 
we made sail and stood to the westward. Without any 
thing of particular note we reached the Newfoundland 
banks, and saw and spoke the ship Thetis of St. Johns. 
She had the night previous run down a fishing schoon- 
er, seeing nothing of her until she struck her midships. 
Soon as possible the ship was brought to and boats 
lowered, but not a vestige was seen. Their loud shrieks 
were heard as they sank to rise no more. Anxious 
friends have no doubt long awaited their return and are 
34* 



282 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

still ignorant of their doom. Thus many a ship's crew 
have been swallowed up in a moment, with the waves 
their winding sheet, the howling winds their requiem. 

One day we fell in with a large iceberg whose spiral 
top towered far above our mast head. With this we 
sailed some time. About 9 P. M. it shut in with a 
heavy fog from the southeast so dense that we could 
not discern objects the length of the ship ahead of us. 
This rendered our situation the most unpleasant, float- 
ing as we were with so formidable a companion among 
such a host of fishermen as ever throng that place, with 
no means of testing our proximity to them. 

At length the sharp cry of the looker-out, '• Hard 
port the helm," aroused all hands. The order was 
quickly obeyed, but not quick enough to avoid a severe 
blow from the ice. The shock aroused the captain, 
who came quickly upon deck. The pumps were rigged 
and every thing clewed up except the fore and main- 
top-sails, the yard lowered down and the reef-tackles 
rolled out ; and thus we ran the remainder of the night. 
Heard the report of a gun mingled with the surf dash- 
ing, as we supposed, against the iron bound coast or 
against the ice. From the situation we were in we had 
much to fear, and in fact our terror could not be told, 
expecting each successive moment would bring us on to 
the rocks, or ice which would be even more certain 
destruction. 

Another gun was discharged, and the dashing grew 
still louder. Whither to steer we knew not. Every ear 
and eye was called into requisition. Hope could hardly 
point us to a safe deliverance. All were certain that a 
most dreadful crisis was rapidly approaching. Another 
gun was fired which sounded but a half stone's throw 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 283 

from uSj and the flash gleamed through the fog, and all 
was dark as before. Attentively listening I thought I 
could distinguish the strokes from the large paddle 
wheels of some Steamer, and a moment after our fears 
were greatly relieved by tlie rapid passing of one of the 
Liverpool line of steamers. 

Daylight appeared and we made all possible sail, not- 
withstanding the fog had cleared away but very little. 

Wind and weather favoring, we were soon safely 
anchored at the docks of St. Johns, and I was again in 
the bosom of my little family, where I remained work- 
ing at rigging until the summer of 1843. 



■4 ♦ • » ► ■ 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Command a Vessel. Sail for London. Come near going on the 
Goodwin Sands. Anchor at London. Sail for Mobile. Serious 
affair with the Seamen. Spirits discharged from the Ship. A 
Fortune-Teller. Sail for Liverpool. Sail as mate of the Ash- 
burton. A Storm. Run upon the Rocks. Perilous Situation. 
Proceed to St. Johns, and go smuggling. Are taken, and ship 
sold. News from home. Go thither, and unknown. Conclusion. 



l^uvwxAAgGAI^T^ on the first of August, 1843, I left 
5 7S 5 St. Johns as commander of the Solway 
I M^Bs i Frith, bound for London, with a crew of 
l>AnAAA/vl twenty-one all told. The owner, (Mr. 
W — and wife,) were aboard. Proceeded down the bay 
of Fundy, very finely indeed; had nothing to mar our 
happiness, until we were in the chops of the channel. 
A fine breeze wafted us in the space of forty-eight hours 
into the Downs, where we came to anchor among three 



284 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

hundred sail from all quarters of the globe. About 
sunset, one night, the wind freshened a little, and 
hauled around into the westward, increasing each mo- 
ment in fury. Some of the ships parted from their 
anchors, others cut away their masts, and rigging, to 
prevent if possible their severing the cable, and falhng 
back upon the sands; while some would slip their 
cable, and run for the north sea. At ten o'clock the 
gale had attained that height, I thought it best to lower 
the top-gallant yards and masts ; and v/hile in the act, 
the anchor started, and we ran stern-foremost towards 
the sands with the greatest rapidity. All were filled with 
the greatest terror. Knowing there was no time to be 
lost, I threw out the best bower, and payed out ninety 
fathom of cable, then the small bower with seventy 
fathoms. The desired effect was produced; the ship 
was stopped in her course. Our windlass was nearly 
cut off" by the wearing of the chains. Life-boats were 
every where bounding upon the wave like feathers, 
while the ships were plunging and tossing madly about. 
By four, the next morning, all of our top-gallant masts 
and yards were upon deck ; thus we lay imtil the day 

following, when Mr. W and lecdj took the life-boat, 

and went on shore, and thence to London by land. 

By the recomm^endation of the pilot, I chartered the 
steamer Lion to tow us to London. She tOAved us as 

far as the light on the roadstead of Sheerness, 

where we lay in Avait for a tide, when she again towed 

us to the — , w^here we lightened her of her deck 

load, and of part of that in the hold, and moored to the 
East County dock, where the remainder of our cargo 
was discharged. 

We then hauled into a dry dock, in order to find our 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 285 

♦ 

leakage if possible. It was supposed, as this was the 
first voyage of the Solway Frith, some bolt-hole was 
left unstopped through mistake, which had also escaped 
the caulker's notice, which was, on examination, found 
to be the case. 

The ship being caulked, we hauled to the Timass 
Buoys to await orders. Here we remained but a few 

days, when Mr. W came on board, and ordered me 

to get ready for Mobile, Alabama, U. S. A. 

I immediately got my stores and ballast ready. Took 
on a pilot, and sailed for Mobile, Oct. 7th, 1843. Ran 
down the shore, and arrived at the Downs with a 
double-reefed top-sail breeze. Discharged our pilot at 
Deal, and stood down the channel. 

On the third day took our departure from the Lizard 
light bearing North. 

The day following, unbent cables, stowed anchor, 
and shaped our course for Mana Isle ; had a stiff 
breeze till we struck the trade winds, when we found 
it light. Setting studding-sails alow and aloft, made 
all possible sail, and were enabled, after eighteen days' 
sail, to reach Mana ; found a mistake of twenty miles 
in my reckoning; as it happened, however, all was 
well. 

Ran through the Mana passage, and made the Island 
of Hayti or St. Domingo. 

At about dark, sighted the north end of Jamaica, and 
endeavored to run between that and St. Domingo. The 
breeze being so very light, I failed in the attempt, and 
ran to the leeward of Jamaica, and passed the great 
Command, a very difficult pass, without harm. The 
breeze began to freshen a little; we rounded the Cape 
Antonio, the southern point of Cuba, and hauled our 



286 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

wind for Mobile, on a bowline, and made Massacre 
Island. A pilot seeing us ; came for the ship, before I 
hoisted a signal; thinking to have a little sport on 
knowing our vessel to be a fast sailer, crowded all sail, 
and gained very much of him, he meanwhile urged his 
little boat along as fast as possible. Heaving to took 
him aboard, and bracing full, soon were at the entrance 
of the bay ; had much difficulty in getting over the bar, 
which we struck three times without much damage. 

Getting over the bar, we proceeded up Dog river, and 

came to in four fathoms of water. Mr. W went to 

town to attend to his business. I had the sails unbent, 
and stored in the sail-room. 

The lighters came along side for the ballast. Find- 
ing stone for ballast very scarce indeed, 1 concluded 
to screen the stone from the sand, and reserve them for 
use while I discharged the sand. This being done, all 
hands under the charge of the mate went about fitting 
the ship sails, setting the rigging, &c. While this was 
going on, I was gunning, fishing, or any thing I chose 
to do. I procured game sufficient, or nearly so, for the 
ship's use. Much time I spent about the town. 

Mobile is situated on the west side of the Mobile bay, 
in a position elevated above the overflow of the river. 
In 1700 it was founded by the Spanish, and came into 
the possession of the Americans in 1813, being at that 
time of but little note, since which time it has increased 
very much ; yet diseases have hindered its rapid growth. 
It is now one of the greatest markets for cotton in the 
country. 

Ships lying at Mobile are obliged to sight their 
anchors every few days, on account of the nature of 
the bottom, which is very soft indeed, otherwise they 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 287 

would become so firmly imbedded in the- mud, as to ren- 
der all attempts to raise them fruitless. Many times the 
ship is hove directly over the anchor, the windlass 
manned, and the ship careened over very much, which 
is continually drawing upon the anchor; and, as she 
rights herself, is again drawn over; this continues till they 
are able to heave it to the cat-head by the windlass. 

One day, while we lay at anchor, I went on shore, 
and, as usual, left the mat^ in charge ; on my return, 
found the mate holding to difierent articles to keep him- 
self from falhng as he went across the deck. As I stood 
talking with him, one of the crew came reeling up, and 
dared him to fight, at the same time using the most 
abusive language. I remained silent a few moments, 
when I ordered him to his duty, and to be quiet. He 
flew at me in a perfect rage, off*ering me many insults, 
and attempted to strike me. Seeing four more of his 
drunken fellows coming towards me, I thought it about 
time to be doing something ; dealt the first one a blow 
above his eyes, which threw him with force across a 
beef barrel, screaming loudly. This blow was so vio- 
lent that my thumb was dislocated. The second 
received a blow which put him with his fellow. This 
also disabled my left hand. 

The first one now came to the second attack ; I met 
him with the toe of my boot under his chin, which laid 
him upon the deck where he was willing to remain. 
The other three soon came hurriedly forward to assist 
their comrades. Seizing an iron bolt, about two feet 
long, which was very fortunately near me, I laid them 
all upon the deck together. The steward took them to 
their berths, and dressed their wounds. One of them 
had his jaw broken, another his head badly hurt, and 



288 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

one of his ribs broken. The next morning Mr. W 

came on board, and learned the wholfe matter. I then 
discharged all the liquor from the ship, and suffered 
not a single drop on board after. In a few days three 
of the men went to their duty ; the other two never did, 
being disabled for a long time. The cargo was sent on 
board, packed and stowed. We remained at Mobile 
four or five months before we could get a cargo. 

It had been nearly a year since my friends had heard 
any intelligence of me whatever, and that only indi- 
rectly. They being extremely solicitous respecting me, 
laid their case before a traveling fortune-teller, who 
told them of my exact situation, and of the time I should 
return to ihem. This they had little faith in ; for so 
long had I been gone, I was thought to be almost 
wholly estranged. The capability of those fortune- 
tellers, I have always and do still doubt; yet I solemnly 
assert that in this case it was told rightly. 

We sailed from Mobile in March, bound for Liver- 
pool. When abreast the Bermudas, w@ were met with 
a very heavy squall ; for this we were tolerably well 
prepared, though very heavily laden. 

The sea was very irregular and high ; the ship la- 
bored very heavily indeed ; besides this, our situation 
was rendered doubly fearful by the extreme darkness. 
Seldom, if ever, did I pass a worse night than this. 
There was one remarkable feature attending it : it was 
unaccompanied with lightning or thunder, which are so 
frequent in that season and climate. The magnificence 
of the phospheretic scenery was such that the most 
timid mariner would pause in his duty amid the war- 
ring of the elements, where danger beset him on every 
hand, to admire its sublimity c 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 289 

The long wished for day at length arrived; and 
through the dense fog we could occasionally see traces 
of light, that, with rising of the barometer, were sure 
indications that the worst was over. Had the storm 
continued longer, or had the ship been more heavily 
laden with timber, or with any compact loading, causing 
a greater dead weight in her bottom, in consequence of 
which she would have rolled much quicker, and la- 
bored much more heavily, I fear all would have been 
lost. 

About ten that day, we made sail to steady the ship, 
the sea being still very heavy. 

At about two in the afternoon, we had a view of, I 
think, the largest water, or by some termed, air-spout, I 
ever saw. Nothing occurred until we reached sound- 
ings at the St. George's channel. Here Mrs. W 

presented her husband with a fine boy ; w^hen the fact 
was communicated to the crew, they hoisted the colors 
and fired a salute. 

A stormy wind headed us several days ; the channel 
was full of vessels of all nations waiting a passage up. 
A light breeze springing up, we set studding-sails, and 
soon made the Tuskar light. Rounding th^ rock, we 
shaped our course to Holyhead. A thick fog again set- 
ting in, and shutting out the land from sight, we were 
obliged to run the ship by reckoning. When abreast of 
Bardsey island, spoke a coaster, and found our reckon- 
ing right. 

At night the fog cleared away. Made sail. Sighted 

Holyhead light on the coast of Wales; rounded the 

head at dayhght; took on a pilot who soon ran us into 

Liverpool. When we docked ship, and discharged all 

25 



290 Llt^E AND ABVENTUflES 

hands. A few days after, the ship and cargo was sold 
upon the water. I was offered the command of her by 
the new owners^ te make a voyage to Quebec ; this I 
decHned, not hking the voyage, though I regretted 
leaving the ship, for she was a beautiful sailor. 

Wishing to go to St. Johns, I watched every opportu- 
nity to work my passage. This I could find no means 
of doing until some time in July, when I was offered 
the berth of chief mate on board the Ashburton, Capt. 
Poole, bound thither. The Ashburton was a splendid 
ship of 1009 tons register, built for either passengers or 
freight. All things ready, we left our moorings the 18th 
of July, with sixteen passengers, and cargo of dry 
goods, iron, &c. Proceeded down the Mersey, and 
stood across to the Irish shore, made the hill of Howth. 
The wind blowing a double reefed top-sail breeze from 
the southwest, and every moment freshening, we 
hauled up and stowed our main-sail; tacked and stood 
back to the English coast. Sighted the Calf-of-man at 
midnight. Finding we made no progress, and the wind 
still increasing, we close reefed the fore and mizzen top- 
sails, and double reefed the main top-sails. At three, 
the next day, the Captain thought best to square away, 
and stand northwest towards the North Channel ; which 
course we ran about six hours, then hauled our wind 
N. N. E. till midnight, and stood N. N. W. 

During this time I was below : coming on deck at 
half past twelve, found the Captain had been on deck 
all night. 

On learning that, at nine o'clock, the Calf-of-man 
bore E. S. E. four leagues distant, and since that time 
we had been bearing northwest, I was fully persuaded 
all was not right, and went aft into the poop, where the 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 293 

Captain was walking with a thoughtful expression of 
countenance. The rain was at this time falling in tor- 
rents. 

I told the Captain we were close in upon the Irish 
shore. With a sneering laugh he replied, '' We are far 
enough from Ireland, and we must still haul our course 
a little to the westward." 

I turned away and went forward, biting my lips 
through indignation at his proceedings. Knowing him 
to be a skillful navigator, I immediately made up my 
mind that it was his intention to run the ship upon the 
rocks, regardless of his own life and also the lives of his 
crew and passengers, in order to get the insurance, as 
she was insured for double her real value. Putting a 
man on the look-out, I went aft again and told the cap- 
tain we should be on the rocks in a fev\r moments, if the 
ship was not hauled to the eastward. He forced a 
smile, and attempted to laugh me out of the idea I held 
with respect to our situation. I told him it was his 
privilege to laugh if he chose, but it would be no laugh- 
ing affair for the crew and passengers to go on the rocks, 
as we certainly should, unless we stood to the east- 
ward. 

At that moment, he seeing a little light on our star- 
board bow, exclaimed : 

^' All right ! Port Patrick hght ; we must haul to the 
westward!" 

Seeing it was a revolving one, I knew it to be the 
South Rock hght, and told him she would strike in fif- 
teen minutes. In a moment I saw the little harbor 
lights called St. Johns hght, on our larboard bow, situ- 
ated at the entrance of Port-au-Ferry Lough. I ran 
25* 



294 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

forward, and could see through the fog, which was 
breaking up a Uttle, land and breakers right a-head. — 
Upon my own J'esponsibility I immediately ordered the 
yards to be braced up and the helm put hard to port. 

The ship came to and ranging ahead, in a moment 
would have cleared the point, had not a heavy sea 
struck her starboard bow and deadened her headway ; 
her keel struck upon the rock, the sails caught aback, 
and swung her bows around upon her keel with great 
force. 

She rested with each end on a reef, and as the tide 
left her, she careened and twirled over, thus giving the 
surf still greater effect upon her. At this unfavorable 
moment the captain ordered the sails to be clewed up. 
I knowing the great danger that would arise from it, 
told the men to look out for themselves first. I had 
hardly ceased speaking when a sea washed over her 
decks, sweeping upwards of twenty of the crew into 
the sea ! 

Those that were aft — seven of us — were saved. The 
screams of the passengers, who were all fast below, 
were beyond conception. They were set on deck to act 
for themselves. 

Daylight came, and we were seen from the shore, 
(we went upon the rock about two o'clock, having been 
there a little over two hours,) but they dare not attempt 
our rescue, as the sea ran very high. Twenty-three of 
the bodies of those lost were seen washing about, and 
beating against the ship's side. 

Again a heavy sea struck her, and carried away the 
boats from the fore part of the poop, with all my articles 
of value, except a few instruments of navigation ; and 
I almost cursed the day I went aboard the Ashburton. 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 295 

But when I saw the mangled, headless bodies of the 
sailors beating about against the rocks, my loss sank 
into insignificance. 

We had stowed in the half deck some salt hams, 
which had not been disturbed ; our bread had been satu- 
rated with salt water, yet we devoured it like half- 
famished wolves. 

Thus we lay for seven days, almost momentarily ex- 
pecting death, and yet within half a mile of the shore. 
On the eighth day a boat came from the shore, and 
when within hail was capsized, and one of the noble 
crew found a watery grave. 

The ninth day a boat succeeded in getting to us, and 
took away the passengers, captain, boatswain, and 
steward, leaving the rest of us to spend yet another 
dreary night upon the rocks. 

The next day the insurance agents, one from Belfast 
and the other from Port-au-Ferry, came out to us, with 
the captain. They wished us to stay and take charge 
of the wreck until further orders, offering us good wages, 
but this was far from being a pleasant berth. We how- 
ever concluded to stay, and busied ourselves collecting 
the goods that might remain on the wreck, also all the 
bolts and other articles from the ship worth saving. A 
boat was sent oflf from shore to collect the bodies of 
those that were drowned, who still lay beating about 
the rocks and in holes on the reef, where they had been 
deposited by the water. 

At the expiration of seventeen days, I received a letter 
from the captain, ordering us all to proceed to Port-au- 
Ferry immediately. On our arrival, we found the 
captain with the insurance agents, who wished to know 
my charges for the services rendered. I told them two 



296 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

dollars per day from the time of our sailing from Liver- 
pool. To this they objected, and offered me one dollar 
and fifty cents per day. I told them I should have two 
dollars or nothing, and if I was not paid in six hours, I 
would place a seizure upon the wreck. The captain 
offered to pay me when I arrived at Belfast, and thither 
he proceeded with me. On going to the office, I was 
asked to sign the protest ; to this I objected, saying I 
wished to get my money first. The captain then tried 
to intimidate me, by saying it was a mate's duty to do 
it. 

I then offered him his choice between paying me and 
an exposure of the facts respecting the wreck. Imme- 
diately he chose to pay me the two dollars I asked, 
rather than suffer me to make public the circumstances 
connected with that which he well knew would throw 
him out of the insurance. That I ought to have done, 
for he fully deserved it, by suffering the ship to go on 
the rocks, at the sacrifice of so many lives, in order that 
he might sell his vessel at an exorbitantly large price ; 
thereby adding to the crime of murder that of robbery ! 

I received my pay, signed the protest, and left the 
office, to search for an opportunity to work my passage 
to St. Johns. 

Falling in with the captain of the Sir Henry Pottin- 
ger, with whom I was previously acquainted, I obtained 
the berth of chief mate. 

We sailed from Belfast on the 13th of August, 1844 ; 
rounded the Copeland light, and, the wind being north- 
erly, stood down the channel ; we passed the South Rock 
light, and came to the reef on which the Ashburton 
struck ; and as I passed the place, I almost fancied I 
could hear those screeches still ringing in my ears, as 



OF WILLUM TOREEY. ' 297 

they rang that night loud above the angry roarings of 
the surf. 

With my glass I looked upon the sad scene till we 
rounded the St. Johns point, which shut it out from our 
sight. 

Two men more than the complement were found, 
when the hands were called to set the watch. They, 
on being questioned, said they were deserters from the 
army, and wished to go to America ; therefore they had 
adopted this way for accomplishing their purpose. The 
captain long questioned in his mind whether to proceed 
with them or leave them on shore, and asked my advice. 
Supposing myself in their situation for one moment, I 
decided in their favor. But this did not save them, for 
the captain could not think himself doing right in taking 
them away, notwithstanding his strong desire to assist 
them, and he resolved to put them on shore. 

When abreast Dublin Bay, we hauled our wind and 
stood in shore, and when within three or four miles of 
the shore, the boats were cleared away, and the captain 
ordered me to put them ashore. To this they stoutly 
objected, declaring they would not go alive. One of 
them was put into the boat by force ; the other finding 
resistance useless, went quietly into the boat, and both 
were put on shore. 

Their entreaties to be taken again to the ship and 
suffered to go to America, brought tears to the eyes of 
the hardy sailors, and for a moment they paused almost 
persuaded to take them back again. Hurriedly we took 
our departure, leaving them standing on the point of 
rock on which they were first landed, where they re- 
mained as long as we were in sight. 

Arriving at the ship, we braced full and stood down 



298 LIFE AND ADVENTURES 

the channel. Nothing unusual occurred on the passage, 
which was completed by the middle of September. 

I had now been gone about thirteen months, and was 
no better off than when I left home, having lost my 
year's hard-earned money through the miserable conduct 
of Captain Poole of the Ashburton. 

The urgent necessities which were placed upon me, 
required my utmost exertions. In company with an- 
other person, I bought a small vessel of fifteen tons, and 
sailed for Eastport. Here we purchased a quantity of 
tobacco, cigars, gin, and tea, to the amount of $250, 
intending to smuggle it into St. Johns. This proved a 
successful enterprise, and we cleared fifty per cent. — 
Stimulated by this happy result, we again proceeded to 
Eastport, and purchased a still larger quantity than be- 
fore, with which we succeeded finely until we reached 
Partridge Island.where we were becalmed ; the fog came 
up from the south-east so heavy, that we could see only 
a little distance ; night also setting in, rendered our 
situation drear indeed. 

About midnight, we , heard oars pulling towards us 
very easy. Fearing they were custom-house officers, 
we lowered our sails, to avoid detection if possible. — 
They hailed us and inquired our business 1 We told 
them we were fishermen. Choosing to be more certain, 
they examined our cargo, and then took us in tow to 
St. Johns. 

The next day our boat and goods were sold. We at- 
tended the auction, and bid the boat back again. We 
then rigged her entirely new, resolving to try our luck 
again. 

We purchased our cargo, and started for St. Johns 
about 10 o'clock in the morning, in order to reach home 



OF WILLIAM TORREY. 299 

about midnight ; we landed our goods in a large hole 
in the rocks in an unfrequented place, and stood oflF 
with the boat. We went on shore in order to get a team. 
On our return, we found three custom-house officers 
guarding our goods ! This proved an entire overthrow 
to our hopes and prospects. Stripped of all our little 
property, we were left with no alternative but to try the 
sea again. 

I accordingly looked about for an opportunity. Soon 
I was offered the command of a new bark, then in the 
stocks, which would soon be ready for sea. The vessel 
lay one hundred miles up the coast. I was also to take 
charge of her outfits. 

The day previous to my departure, I received a letter 
(through the owner of the ship Duncan, in which I had 
previously sailed,) from my brother-in-law, giving me 
an account of the situation of the family. This was 
the first line I had received from home since I left. He 
was extremely anxious that I should return. I went to 
the ship and commenced my labors, which I continued 
only three weeks. 

I returned to St. Johns and fitted out for home, where 
I arrived about the last of November, 1844, having been 
absent fourteen years and a few months. Those long 
years of hardship had so altered the boy of sixteen 
summers, (as I was when they last saw me,) that none 
scarcely knew me. 

In a few days it was my privilege to fill that place 
at the Thanksgiving dinner-table which had so long 
been vacated by me. In a few days my family followed 
me. For a length of time I was in the employ of the 
Dwight Manufacturing Company at Cabotville : at the 



300 torrey's life and adventure*. 

present time I am employed by the Western Railroad 
Company, and stationed at Springfield. 

Thus I draw my simple narrative to a close. It is 
the author's desire that, while his simply-told tale serves 
to pass away an hour, it will contribute something to 
the interest as well as to the amusement of the reader. 



AAAAAAAA/VX 

THE END. 
W\AAyV\A;\A/ 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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